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Troy Christopher Quigley

Gearbox change

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Pedal box, clutch cable and clutch cable bracket for the firewall, gearbox, spigot bearing for the crankshaft, flywheel, clutch and you're ready to go.

 

Abridged version.

 

Starter motor out.

Exhaust off (V8 with crossover pipes or if your pipes are in the way of the box coming out).

Unplug wiring for speedo drive.

Take the auto out.

Take flexplate off.

Install the flywheel, pressure plate/clutch assy.

Spigot bearing goes in the hole in the back of the crank.

Install single rail, don't forget to swap your old speedo sender in.

You can either take the dash out and swap pedal boxes or just swap the clutch pedal in.

Attach the clutch cable.

Start car and test clutch throw out.

If it's all good drive the tits off it asap :)

 

I've probably forgotten something along the way, feel free to add to this ladies and gents.

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Hardest is always sorting the pedal box... A few options, none of them easy. You can modify your existing to take a cable pedal type pivot or just swap the whole lot. I chose the first one on my EF and it worked ok.

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ZJs may be different, but on XFs you can change a pedal box with the dash still in...

Although its probably easier to remove the dash.

 

Pretty sure you can change the pedal box on any xseries with the dash still in, well i know this is true for XA,B,C. You have to remove the steering column however. I hate changing bloody pedal boxes, cunt of a job, changed the one in my xc last week.

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We're doing this exact thing in my Fairlane.

Pedal box needs to be change and can be done with the dash in, taking the drivers seat out makes it a lot easier!

Like already said, you need a clutch cable and a clutch cable bracket. We found that there was a mark already on the inside of the firewall for the hole - but still needs to be drilled out.

When it is all hooked up the firewall is quite weak and bends a lot when the clutch is engaged, so we made a plate that strengthens this up a bit, well a lot.

You also need a manual center console the original console needs to be cut as it doesn't quite fit.

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When it is all hooked up the firewall is quite weak and bends a lot when the clutch is engaged, so we made a plate that strengthens this up a bit, well a lot.

I thought XD/ZJ were the same as XE/ZK where there is a plate bolted on the firewall and all you had to do was take it off and bolt the clutch cable tube in?

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I thought XD/ZJ were the same as XE/ZK where there is a plate bolted on the firewall and all you had to do was take it off and bolt the clutch cable tube in?

 

Nope, no plate - just a mark on the inside where there should be a hole 

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You can ether, undo the clamp at the bottom on the column and let it rest on the drivers seat or take it out completely.

 

Job is already a pain in the ass as it is, soo much harder doing it with the column in. I highly recommend taking the column out, will save you time and pain.

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can I put a hydrollic set up in, instead of cable

 

Cable type pedals use a separate pivot that sits a couple of inches below the pedal shaft. Hydraulic setups use about a 2" longer brake pedal shaft that sticks out past the side of the pedal box, which the clutch pedal then uses as well.

 

I did my XE hydraulic setup without undoing the pedal box, but had to cut off part of the heater box to get the longer manual pedal shaft in there. Shit job either way. I ended up pulling out the driver's seat so I could get in there and work without dislocating a few vertebrae.

 

Not sure about X-series, but E-seres pedal boxes (auto or manual) all come stamped with a hole for the (cable type) clutch pivot to poke through. On my EF manual conversion I got a 16mm (5/8") bolt and used the shank part as a pivot with the threaded part going into the hole in the pedal box with a nut on each side of it, reinforced with large washers. The factory one isn't that different from my shonky version except the pivot is welded to a reinforcing plate that is spot-welded to the pedal box. Mine eventually started cracking around the outside of the washers I put in (the metal is pretty pissy), so I made up an extra bracket that went from the outside end of the pivot down to the firewall. Worked great after that.

 

Still wanna do this? 

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