Stu5766 394 Posted November 6, 2015 What oil are you running in the diff? The diff shop would have advised something. I know mine is about 80w140 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted November 6, 2015 Im using a penrite LSD blue-green alien blood limslip 80-90,to be honest i picked up the axles and centre and they were so busy only a few words were said,i just did the brakes and put the diff hat on ,will fill up tomorrow and spin the wheels a bit before going on the maiden voyage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted November 7, 2015 well its better ,but still a little noisy,so im giving up at this stage,dont no what else it could be so thats it untill i change gears down the track to maybe 3.9 then i will get it fully sorted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted November 7, 2015 Are the ring and pinion from the same diff? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted November 7, 2015 yes 3.27 gears matching,its possible the gears are making the noise ?,or the pinion bearing,but its not that annoying as it was before,only the trained ear would pick it up,i took it for half an hour drive so ? does anyone no where i can buy a magic wond . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted November 7, 2015 Try Penrite 80w140 LSD oil. I have that in my 78 series Borg Warner & not a peep out of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted November 7, 2015 magic penrite 80-140w sounds good,i might give that one a go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 7, 2015 Is it there on drive/Coast or all the time? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted November 7, 2015 yes in drive ,definatly from the centre,i havent tried putting it in nuetral and coasting but i will tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 7, 2015 If it gets better over time, it's gears (being lapped in) but if it gets worse, it's bearings. Probably pinion if that's the case. 1 Stu5766 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted November 8, 2015 Nice shower of rain here before so i headed out to the hill to test the lsd and when i got there a few others had the same idea as me,i was surprised at first as it was gripping hard ,meaning the lsd was working good,then a lot more gas and sideways she goes. 2 gerg and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted January 2, 2016 I just took the car for a drive to brizzy and back and 3.27's are just bearable ,sitting on about 2800rpm at 110kph 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 2, 2016 Yeah found the same when I still had the single rail in mine. T5 conversion now has it at 2100, but still prefer 2.92s. I reckon going 3.27 was a mistake for my car 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted January 2, 2016 yeah its a in between gear set,3.08 is nice 3.45 onwards for real performance in a 1-1 final ratio box,i normally just cruise the streets at very low km's and it suits me fine with the occasional burnout. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted January 2, 2016 Lol. I do highway runs with 3.45 diff. Ute spends most of it's time at 110km/hr. But I think final box ratio in 5th on T5D is 0.72:1 , so that helps. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 2, 2016 Yeah later T5s had taller 1st and 2nd but I got an EA one with 3.50 1st so that on top of a 3.27 diff feels like I'm driving an F-series when taking off. A T5Z would be ideal but need $ for them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted January 2, 2016 I just took the car for a drive to brizzy and back and 3.27's are just bearable ,sitting on about 2800rpm at 110kph What rear tyre size do you have? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted January 2, 2016 i run 225-60-15 allround,when i cruise the street im in top gear at 30kph,it changes so fast,but when you foot it she really bucks,when i do my crossy rebuild i will be going for 3.7 or 3.9 possibly 4.11 as it will be a drag only ,on my street driven car i might go back to 3.08 or 2.92. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 2, 2016 Short diffs are fine with an auto, but on a manual they are a pain in the vagina. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MNTL.XD 3,831 Posted January 2, 2016 I'm about to start a rebuild on a 9" diff so have been doing a fair bit of homework, now i know they're quite different but i thought i'd put up a couple of videos i found on the subject, at very least they will give you an insight of meshing gears, pre-loads, what to look for and why. Very informative. I might even do a bit of a build thread when i build it. I noticed you said you swapped the crownwheel, but did you also swap the pinion over? They really do need to be a matching pair. (meaning both out of the same diff.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted January 2, 2016 Lol. I do highway runs with 3.45 diff. Ute spends most of it's time at 110km/hr. But I think final box ratio in 5th on T5D is 0.72:1 , so that helps. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk Yeah later T5s had taller 1st and 2nd but I got an EA one with 3.50 1st so that on top of a 3.27 diff feels like I'm driving an F-series when taking off. A T5Z would be ideal but need $ for them The different T5s also have a different 5th gear ratio. Panko and I were doing some discussions about how he wants a different final drive ratio in his wagon (instead of 2.77) and was saying how I have a 3.23 in my ute, turns out we have different T5s and as is at 100km/h we are only a couple of hundred RPMs out from each other. 2 gerg and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,308 Posted January 2, 2016 yes i started with a 3.27 open EB diff ,then got a LSD centre,swapped the crown gear over ,new carrier and wheel bearings,and the sucker is still noisy,i didnt change the pinion bearing .now im wishing i did ,i used the same shims on the LSD centre,i didnt need a diff spreader,1st time i ever did any diff work ,i just need now to do the pinion as i imagine thats where the noise is coming from ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 2, 2016 Yeah mine has a 0.78 5th whereas the later (3.35 1st) has 0.72. T5Z has 2.95 1st and 0.63 5th Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted January 2, 2016 Yeah mine has a 0.78 5th whereas the later (3.35 1st) has 0.72. T5Z has 2.95 1st and 0.63 5th Yeah we figured out Panko has the earlier one and I have a later one. Pity there's no easy identification on the box itself Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 2, 2016 Pity there's no easy identification on the box itself Yeah if the tag's missing you can count rotations I guess, the casing only has individual casting numbers, not numbers relating to its internals. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
