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OZY351

Borgwarner LSD rebuild

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I will try and keep it short

 

2nd hand EB LSD purchased and installed behind mild 351. Going well

Cupla minor skids and developed minor clunk

Diff guy says,

Option 1. $1400 True Trac (I think)

Option 2. $550 LSD rebuild with new bearings and shimmed.

I understand if I abuse it, it not gonna last but $550 is within budget so am going option 2.

Just wondering if anyone has had similar work done to same diff and results.

Gimme a month or so and I will report on my experience as I will fit my T5 while I'm under there

(The one I was sposed to fit 12 months ago)

Cheers

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Is it 25 or 28 spline? You've probably broken a cross-shaft. Mine let go with no abuse, the centre basically sheared all the bolts off that hold it together. I don't actually know what caused it but was right pissed off. I have a 25-spline one-legger in there now and no dramas so far.

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Option 2 sounds good man. I know the bearings cost a fair bit hey

 

Sent from my SM-T315 using Tapatalk

Including axle bearings and seals, you're probably looking at $180 just in parts. Add a diff hat gasket plus machining the cones, and $550 sounds quite reasonable. Some mobs up here in Sydney want $650 for a "checked and cleaned" centre (supply only) with bearings installed.

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I know it double the price but a brand new Kaaz lsd is $1100-$1200.The kaaz unit will outlast a factory rebuilt lsd by a long way and put up with more punishment.

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All four trailing arms nolothane bushes were crumbling when I actually bothered to look so replaced with rubber and has obviously made a vast improvement. $550 didn't include axle bearings I think but still good price. Bloke told me he will take it for a spin and advise further. Will still get it done. Maybe around tax return time. Top bloke and very honest. Located in Cannington WA

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if your willing to pay freight i may be able to get my hands on a recently rebuilt 3.45 LSD disc to disc setup?

was in a clapped out EF on gas, so it wasn't abused, owned planned to build a motor for it and the car got written off (literally needed a bootlid and rear bar, didn't even damage the reo)

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Today i pulled out a 3.27 open centre and swapped the crown gear on to a LSD out of a 96 LTD i picked up for a good price,i have never done any diff work before but it all went down ok,i will refill with oil tomorrow and test drive it,im hoping it will not make any noise as the old one did.

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I'm thinking unless the noise was coming from the bearings on the carrier it's still going to be noisy.

 

How did you go getting it in?

 

I've built a few diffs over the years,only for myself. The first time some 15+ years ago I put in a spool. Cracked the shims that sit each side of the bearings (no diff spreader). By the time I got it in I didn't care anymore,it worked fine.

Next time I had the idea to put the center in the freezer over night. Worked a treat, always do that now.

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Diff spreader/squasher is the normal way to go, but the important thing is sufficient preload. If you install without enough, the cups will push apart under load and wear unevenly, will toast your bearings quickly. If freezing works then it's happy times.

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well i dont no what a diff spreader is but i got the old open centre out without to much fuss and i found it quite a bit heavier than the lsd unit ?,broke a shim trying to get it in,then used another shim identical size and tried a different method to fit it in and it worked much better ,the last centre had noisy bearings so i used the new lsd complete unit with its bearings,gunna fill it up soon ,put the brakes back on and take for a drive,i really hope its better because im getting sick of living under the car LOL.

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Those two holes you see either side of the housing face are where the pins go for the spreader. It's like a reverse g-clamp. It flexes the housing outwards so the caps come apart and you install the centre and caps with it spread. It will be a snug fit. Then you release it and the housing relaxes back to normal, but with preload on the bearings. Once preloaded, it should be near impossible to remove the centre.

 

If you can put the centre back in by itself without a spreader, then there is no preload. It'd say that if you're using worn-in bearings, the lack of preload will matter less. Still not great though.

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well it took about 10 mins of hitting each side with a rubber mallett to get it in then i did the caps up so it will have a bit of load,probly about the same as the LSD one i took out of the EF housing,now i no what those 2 small holes are ,ok im gunna fill it up soon,cheers

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ok i took it for a drive and its only marginally quieter ,oooops maybe its the wheel bearings,but i have the LSD centre in there now,so i guess start with wheel bearings and then if that doesnt work i suppose its all comin out again ! :angry:i used a medium sized crow bar to lever the centres out ,wasnt to hard just a pain in the arse if your under the car,cheers.

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Under what circumstances does the noise occur?

 

As a general rule:

 

- Drive/over-run: pinion bearing

- Constant: carrier bearings

- Side-side load (cornering): wheel bearings.

 

The pinion bearing also has a higher-pitched whirring noise than carrier or wheel bearings (spins faster).

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well its not cornering,but i would say carrier bearings,its definatly quieter then the other centre but there is a slight vibration when taking off that wasnt there before ? i didnt set the gear mesh just took a guess it would be ok swapping the crown gear over,should i just try wheel bearings first or just get the whole lot done ?

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so is there a way to get to the correct pre load on the carrier bearings ? im gunna have to pull it all out again and get all new wheel and carrier bearings,on take off with the way it still is there is a slight vibration that goes away once speed picks up ,could this be incorrect lining up of the gears ?

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