Jump to content
Clevo120Y

Street Stock Speedway

Recommended Posts

A workmate used that shit on an old 2H powered Landcruiser and reckons he had to wind the idle down after treatment due to the reduced friction. He's not one to bullshit either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PM 50 is 25-50?? if so it may just be a bit better than a penrite.

 

It is a million better than Penrite.Like I said zero oil pressure issues with the PM50 so thats what I will be using again.

 

Only issue is it looks like trans fluid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A workmate used that shit on an old 2H powered Landcruiser and reckons he had to wind the idle down after treatment due to the reduced friction. He's not one to bullshit either.

The bearings of my race motor come out like the day they went in and I know of another competitor that uses it - his roller cam crossflow is a class leader and is in its 7th straight year of competition without a rebuild. I shit you not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Straight 50 oil is definitely not suitable for tight motors. When cold it resembles gear oil and is actually used in some jap truck gearboxes as a substitute. It may be of some benefit when using forged pistons that are loose when cold but i reckon it would stress the oil pump something chronic.

 

The 50 mono grade means it behaves as a 50 grade oil would at both cold temp and at 100 deg. Multigrade (say 20W50) means it behaves like a 20 grade when cold but like a 50 grade would when at 100 deg.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would use it but I would only put in 1/4 of a bottle every oil change (5000ks).  It says to run a full bottle but if you run a quality oil like FUCHS etc then you don't need to use as much.  If you run shit oil then maybe a third to half  a bottle every change. 

 

Oil (and additives) is cheap.  Engine machining and rebuilding is not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • I have used it for 3 years in 1/3rd strength in FUCHS oil in a motor that gets regularly flogged in a very harsh environment (dust) and with methanol.  I pull my bearing after 3 years and they look like this
IMG_0971.jpg
  • The strongest crossflow in the field has been running the stuff for at least the last 8 years that I know of.  That engine went together 6 years ago and has still not come apart and shows awesome oil pressure and pace - in the same crap environment.
  • I have personally seen it increase oil pressure at idle by 4psi.  I have seen the same engine maintain oil pressure when hot much better than without it.  I have seen the same engine recover it cold oil pressure between heats, something it didn't do without Slick 50.
Apart from that - I have nothing.  It is widely recognised that zinc and other good stuff has been pulled out of oils due to 'advancements' in engine and oil technology.  More likely to appease the EPA.  Anything that helps those of us that still run flat tappet motors - be they hydraulic or mechanical - is a good thing in my books.

 

Would I run Slick 50 in a stock x-flow? No.  Would I run it in a warm street motor? My oath.  I have seen far too much of this type of damage

 

IMG_1117.jpg

 

which could have been avoided with good oil and a splash of Slick 50. But everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I'm just offering up my experience with the stuff. I know my bearings liked it and I'm sure Max's engine is still loving it 6 race seasons on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well I've been flat out so here is a quick update from the weekend at Albany speedway, Wombat went really well, wee had a average start with a dnf in the first heat due to a broken upper ball joint, the second heat was OK but I was still chasing some spark scatter at the topend of the rev range, once I changed the coil over to the hec electronic job the timing became rock solid, so set at a nice safe 28 degrees the car flew in the 3rd heat and was on pace with the front runners and finished 4th. The final we started out of 10th because of the average first 2 heats. Wombat was running 3rd when he hit a rutt and headed for the wall but managed to get it straight again but lost 2 spots. here is a timing sheet that shows that the car is now as fast as any other car in the region and I'm pumped with hows it's running. Wombat is car number 45 Brad Pierce.

 

IMG_0231_zps19f92169.png

 

I'm leaving the car in a safe tune for now as I have surgery next week and will be out of action for a while but Wombat will keep me posted on how he is going and I will let you lot know. Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done mate, shows that patience and knowledge can get you to the front. I love how you say it's still safe tune, you guys are going to kill it.

Good luck with your operation and hope everything turns out good for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, yeah I can put more timing in it still and the AFR's are in the high 11's so I can still take fuel out for more power later, hoping to get her on a dyno soon to get it Mickey Mouse.

I'm looking forward to surgery to get started, I have at least 3 to get through but as soon as I'm recovered I will be full steam ahead with "stumpers heads n manifolds" engine developments :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good stuff sean.  car is showing good pace.  I'd say the final tenth or 2 will be found in set up.  His km/h is right up there.  More seat time and a gun set up and you guys will be smoking them. 

 

Best of luck on your health.  I'll keep the x-flow fire burning whilst you are laid up.  Got a big couple of weeks coming up assembling tough cross flows.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah it's close mate I can smell it LOL, the car has the potential and once Wombat gets his groove on we will be a real contender at any track, the state and national titles are here in WA this year 1 week apart from each other and we aim to compete in both so getting the car sorted now is important, we went and tried the 3.08 diff to get these results but a change to a 2.92 is needed as we all discussed earlier, I just wanted to take small steps, it payed off as the car is on par with the fastest guys so hopefully the 2.92 will give us more SPEED. here is a short vid of the weekend, heat 3 from the last yellow to the finish, we ran too high a tire pressure in this heat as we weren't paying attention and the track was just watered and shit before Wombat went out, so wheel spin was a big issue in this race but she still got up and going, ignore the oil pressure light as it is dicky and the pressure is solid as can be seen by the guage. cheers

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Car sounds great Sean.  He was fast but old mate in the black ef was a bit loose.  would have been really difficult to make a clean pass on him.  Like the way Wombat tried a couple of different lines to get by him. 

 

On the subject Wombat may or may not know but tell him to look for the darker brown line on the track.  That is the point where the most traction is.  often referred to as the cushion but I don't like that term.  If he can hook the right rear (or left when going the wrong way) onto that part of the track his lap times will drop. 

 

When you have a bloke like that black car in front of you sometimes you have to go up and 'sweep' the top line a bit higher for one or two laps which will give you a bit more room to make a read hot go around the outside.  There is no greater feeling than passing someone up on the boards and just driving straight past them. 

 

Good stuff once again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×