Outback Jack 6,352 Posted October 7, 2014 The Mad professor is at it again... hehe. Onya Stumpers...anyone can build a fast car with no restrictions. Jack. 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted October 7, 2014 I feel your pain mate - people look at me strangely (well they do most of the time anyway) when I tell them 2 weeks to build a good competition sump. As you have found out there is a hell of a lot in it. Oh and one last tip. Make all the panels removable for speedway engines. You need to be able to get them out at rebuild time to clean out all the crud that gets in them. Less of a problem is asphalt cars but with speedway engines getting regularly pulled down it really helps when you can get in there to give them a good clean out. Beware tho - this will consume a lot of time - welding on tabs and captive nuts. If you have a mate with a 'nutsert' tool - borrow it as it will save you heaps of time. 2 Outback Jack and Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted October 8, 2014 This is my first go at a sump obviously lol, I was actually planning on being able to remove the parts Tony, it's a good idea. I don't know anyone with a nutset so I was just going to rivet it to tabs on the sump instead. I'm running out of time now so a basic sump I will do for now and then spend the time required on a spare sump to add scrapers and shit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted October 9, 2014 OK so I had another go at this sump, much happier with the end result now. Used ally plate this time and fixed it all together with rivets so it can be pulled apart. checking the fit of the top widage tray. All the pieces made up. pieces put together and locating tabs welded to the sump finished and looks good I rekon, very sturdy and confident it will work quite well. So what do you lot think? better than my first attempt LOL 5 Outback Jack, slydog, XTREME KARTS XF and 2 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted October 9, 2014 Bloody awesome bro,looks totally "pro" as my kids would say. 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted October 9, 2014 Very nice job 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted October 9, 2014 Nice work Grasshopper. One last piece to add. At the back of the sump - right in the middle. Get a strip of 1mm steel, 30mm wide. Fold it up at 20mm on a 30degree angle - giving you about an 8mm long 'up piece'. Tac weld this piece under the crankshaft centre line with the up piece facing the passenger side wall of the sump. You can give it a slight angle towards the pick up - or better still towards you rear flap. That little piece will do an awesome job of scraping the oil off the crank - just make sure the up piece of the angle is towards the passenger side of the sump and on that side of the crank shaft centre line. If you put the 'up piece' dead on the crank centreline it will hit on the conrod. They go that bloody close to the sump floor !!! Sump building is fun hey? 2 Clevo120Y and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted October 10, 2014 Bloody hell. This kicks ass. 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted October 16, 2014 Thanks guys, haven't been on as I have been flat out, this motor got sealed last night and picked up today, it has to go in the car tonight so I can go round tomorrow night to prime the oil, put the intake setup on and fire it up to get a basic tune in it, race it the next morning LOL hope it all goes to plan. Anyway couldn't get some parts in time so machined up some retainers to suit the isky springs and 3 groove valves, so I spent a few hours on the lathe doing that, then setup the seat pressures and so on. put the rest together and she all went well, run out of time to to paint everything but she looks a bit better than before. Kicking back after I finished, one unassuming crossflow ready to eat some injected cars hahaha Another engine was at the mechanical shop that I was doing the retainers at, a SRE built ecotech of probably the fastest guy in our region, he has had nothing but trouble with this engine, it's been built twice and fucked twice. poor bastard is a great guy and is just handing money over like it was sand. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted October 16, 2014 Also cheers again to Tony for the advice with this, I didn't get to do the strip bit in the sump but I will have a go next time, that's how close a dead line I've been on lately, spent twice as long on everything than I should of, doing extra things like the retainers because they wouldn't get done in time, the joys of race cars. Also I heard today that bad weather is coming and racing might be cancelled Saturday LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted October 16, 2014 Engine looks really good. Did you check for coil bind on the damper with that modified retainer - it looks to have a fairly big step on it - well from the photo's anyway. Oh and I always have a set of machined up Comp Cams 744-16's retainers to suit triple grooves here ready to go. Could of air bagged them over. Never mind. Best of luck for the upcoming season. Oh and as for the ecotec - nothing but trouble. those plastic retainers for the roller lifters have to be changed every ten meetings or they cause the lifter to turn and destroy the cam and then drop valves. Mob up here has a cnc program to make them out of bronze. That solves that problem - but they really are a time bomb due to the revs that they have to pull to make HP and make up for their lack of torque. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted October 16, 2014 Had a work colleague have that happen with his lumpy Comp-cammed LS2, same setup. Fucked the lobe and sent metal through the engine. Plastic engine parts.... What a joke. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted October 17, 2014 GM - enough said. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted October 18, 2014 Well got some hot laps in and then rain so no racing, she sounded on song during the hot laps and one of the fastest guys in the region couldn't get past the Wombat and he said it feels faster and more snappy, Albany speedway in 2 weeks so hopefully get to stretch her legs. 2 gerg and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted October 18, 2014 one of the fastest guys in the region Well done, this will be other people comments about you guys very shortly 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted October 18, 2014 more snappy and faster - good things - perhaps those valve springs. looks good for the season ahead. 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted October 18, 2014 Hey Stumpers, glad ya still plugging along. Keep milking that 4.0 ...... hehehe. Always an interesting read. Jack. 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted October 19, 2014 Yeah I'm happy so far, the springs are good and have 80 thou to coil bind so no worries there, that lip on the retainer sits snug inside the damper. Lighter valve train and reseated valves will make it nice to rev. I adjusted the oil pressure and now sits solid at 58psi and the sump seems to work as oil pressure didn't move. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted October 19, 2014 great stuff sean. good to see the oil pressure is stable. hopefully the weather gods will shine on you next time. we are racing this weekend coming. 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted October 20, 2014 Good luck to all your crew for this weekend mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted October 20, 2014 Sorry to steal your thread but I did notice running the Penrite oil I got when it gets hot it looses oil pressure till you rev it again.I had no such issues with PM50 oil breaking down as fast or loosing pressure though. Back to your regular programming Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted October 20, 2014 If you are seeing the oil pressure improve with revs then the oil is still working and working fine and so is the oil pump. If the oil pressure was not to recover and go up with a rev then the oil is cactus. if the PM50 was a straight 50 it may well hold pressure longer as it does not have the multi viscosity but really I'm not a fan of running straight weight oils cause you really need to warm them up well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted October 20, 2014 It's a 20w 50 per weight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted October 20, 2014 PM 50 is 25-50?? if so it may just be a bit better than a penrite. Try some FUCHS Race 60 'TITAN' I think they call it now - its a 25-50 oil and is full of zinc and copper. great oil that and holds it pressure very well - especially if you add a 1/3rd of a bottle of slick 50 in it. The slick 50 is not really needed in your application but in speedway and metho based engines it helps keep everything nice. Try some - you will love it - doesn't take long to get up to temp either. 1 Fingers reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted October 20, 2014 One of my old man's mates allways swears by slick 50, his vq statesman with 870,000ks and never had the engine or trans rebuilt is testament to the stuff 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
