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Clevo120Y

Street Stock Speedway

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Cheers guys, yeah we are very happy with how the car is performing. We have made a few changes mainly trying tyre pressures and putting taller tyres on the front to transfer weight to the rear. Wombat is a very busy guy and he still hasn't changed the diff ratio so setting up shocks and springs might be during the off season. He is looking at a production sedan XF now and wants me to build an engine for that which I'm keen to do because I can go all out with a lot less restrictions so I can build a wild one.

I'm addicted to the pursuit of faster lap times, I get more enjoyment watching the car go quicker every time I do some fine tuning or try something different, I couldn't handle the anxiety of driving it and putting it into the wall, I'm more of a thinker than a driver.

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Yes the technical side of it sucks you in.  Just on that you can't transfer front weight to the rear with changing front tyre size - you will change the diagonal weight (corner or cross weight) but you can't change the physical weight of the front and rear ends by tyre size. 

 

The only thing that can do that is adding weight to the rear, or subtracting it from the front.  It is a hard concept to grab until you have spent hours weighing the car on scales and just watching what a suspension click or an air pressure change does to your x weights. 

 

Power is one thing but getting it to the ground in an ever changing/ evolving track - well that is a whole other game. Good to hear he is going production sedans - you will have lots of fun with their engine rules etc. 

 

Great stuff - keep the R&D going.

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Whats that rear bar off, ea?

EL-EF wagon rear bumber - sedan bumpers of that era are not wide enough. XF bumpers are getting a bit thin on the ground - especially front bumpers. I've bought whole cars just for the front bumper. (that's why there is that white ute in the back ground)

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Well I have been watching heaps of go pro footage seeing if I can pick up something, one thing I noticed is that the car seemed to come on strong with just a few laps to go, that is when he seems to gain ground on the front runners then runs out of laps. watching over and over again I finally notice what the water temps are, the engine doesn't reach operating temp until at least half way through a race. The fans are just turned on and not temp controlled, the cooling system is very efficient and if there is a yellow flag the temps drop down to 160F then takes time again to get back up to 180/190F were they should be. The engine is cold at the beginning of a race and would be hurting performance until it gets to temp, I will have to install a temp switch for the fans in the off season.

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EWP Sean? I find mine struggles to get temp into it aswell.Never gets hot just never warms up TBH.I know many state and DC state in there paper work to install a thermostat but with a couple by pass holes in it to keep temp more consistent.Whats the point of the variable speed water pump then DC?  

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Well I have been watching heaps of go pro footage seeing if I can pick up something, one thing I noticed is that the car seemed to come on strong with just a few laps to go, that is when he seems to gain ground on the front runners then runs out of laps. watching over and over again I finally notice what the water temps are, the engine doesn't reach operating temp until at least half way through a race. The fans are just turned on and not temp controlled, the cooling system is very efficient and if there is a yellow flag the temps drop down to 160F then takes time again to get back up to 180/190F were they should be. The engine is cold at the beginning of a race and would be hurting performance until it gets to temp, I will have to install a temp switch for the fans in the off season.

Exactly why I installed the thermatic switch in mine to control fans on. Turning them on at the start of a heat is wasted energy (and they consume plenty) as well as hurting engine performance and not allowing oil temp to rise to effective temp.  If you want to see how much they drain take notice of the drop in revs when you initially turn them on.  Yes the engine will overcome this but it is using precious energy to do so. 

 

Add in methanol to the equation and sometimes in May-July in Cairns my fans don't even come on in a heat race.  I would imagine in the southern states they would not even come on at all with an efficient shroud set up. 

 

Just don't be tempted to follow the current trend of installing the radiator in the boot.  I know of two top line cars that it are pulling their radiators out of the boot area now because they can not control excessive engine temps.  Yes putting the radiator in there is really good for rear percentage but that is no good if you cannot finish a long feature. 

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Sly it is just the normal mechanical water pump, can't use an EWP in the rules, I used a bigger pulley to slow the pump down at high revs to avoid cavitation.

Ando you are spot on I need to get the water and oil up to temp before the race even starts, in the first heat the car was lapping slowly before the race started and the water temp guage hadn't moved off the bottom number LOL, getting the temp up before the engine gets flogged will prolong it's life as well, she is starting to breathe pretty heavy after races now so after the final meet the engine will be pulled down for new rings and an inspection.

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Sounds like it is time for a compression check.  Yeah getting that water temp up is the key.  Does he do the parade laps?  If so get him to do them with the fans off and chuck a towel over the radiator to get that water temp up and get some heat into the block. 

 

Dust is the enemy of these engines - it is just so hard to keep 100% of it out. 

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Thanks guys! yeah is good to have the club recognise the big steps forward the team has taken since half way into the season. We will push on next season with a few more new ideas I have rolling around in my head LOL

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Never stop developing Sean.  I'm glad I kept developing my car during my year off racing.  If I hadn't I would be well behind now.  No one seems to stop pulling performance out of their cars. 

 

Maybe a bit more chassis tuning as well as engine advances?

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100% spot on with chassis tuning Tony, your help here has been brilliant mate. The car has a lot more potential in it, the injected guys think that is as fast as it will ever go, boy are they in for a surprise next season LOL.

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Hey mate Fletch just won the Qld title in an XF and I can tell you there were a lot of BIG BUDGET injected cars behind him - 4 seconds behind in fact and it would have been a bigger margin had there not been a yellow light stoppage late in the race.

 

Mate happy to help and offer advice on chassis set up for the big XF.  I'm scaling up Brenton's little corty modified later this week so that will be something different but the same really.  They have never had it on the scales so I could be in for a long night. 

 

After watching Fletch's crew at the titles, I can tell you it is all in the set up and chasing the track.  The guys in that crew nailed the set up for the A Main during practice on Thursday night and man was the car lightening fast in the feature. 

 

Best of luck for the coming season.  You guys are finishing and we are yet to get started. 2 rain outs in a row.  Hopefully the 28th of June will be a good night. 

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Wow it has awesome drive.Pulls out hard.Might be track conditions but it looked very stable (more so than the guys he was passing anyway) and flowed rather well.And your boy looks to be a fairly handy steerer,not scared almost looking to pull another gear while he drives 1 handed LOL.

 

Good work and props to all involved...

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Car sounds good Sean.  Looks a little loose on exit but that could have been the track.  What was the shift light set at?  Seems as if it is on well before tip in on most occasions.  Can't help but thinking that it is revving a little too hard - but it could have been a wet track - hate to be a keyboard warrior, just offering my thoughts. 

 

Afr's look to be pretty safe as well and the car hits hard off the bottom.  Does he do a 1st - 2nd shift off the start? 

 

He can certainly wheel it that is for sure - anyone that can drive one handed is too good for me.  Jason drives his one handed as well - stuffed if I know. 

 

Bring on the new season.  I'm back crewing for Jason and Brenton thanks to the write off of 76.  Never mind I should be back out there soon.

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Cheers guys, yeah Wombat can drive for sure he just needs to work on his consistency, when he gets on a good line he flies but sometimes he's like a pinball all over the place LOL.

Tony you are right on all accounts, the rearend is still the 3.23 gears and the Albany track is 440m which is big I think, the shift light is set at 5600 and is revving too hard for that track, he starts the race in second. The air/fuel when that footage was shot was in the 10's at full throttle which was way too lean, I trimmed the fuel at the next meet in mt barker and is now mid 12's which is still on the fat side but a lot closer.

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10s to lean - I think you mean too rich but I get you. 

 

3.23's with a normal single rail puts you at 6.4 final drive which I think is way over the top for a 440m track.  I run 5.8 on a 403m track but I like to have the engine all torqued up and working.  If you listen to the vid on my race car thread you can hear the difference between the two cars.

 

Most people get confused when they hear that Bor-or-or-or noise and think the car is bogging.  Wrong it is in that nice fat torque area and working the tyres, getting the grunt to the ground and not just spinning up the tyres. 

 

I guarantee you that wombat will be faster with 5.8 final drive and I would even install 2.77's to give 5.5 if the engine showed heaps of torque on the dyno - which they usually do with a peak torque at or near 4500rpm. 

 

roll on the new season. 

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