Electric fuel pump plumbing

[Ando81 2,949]

Ok, I will give one a go. Might try a Goss one to see if it's any quieter than a cheap and nasty one!

[Crazy2287 1,886]

If it's in the engine bay then you will hear it when you key on. The moment you start the car you wont hear it over the engine. If your worried just don't fix it to your firewall or floorpan.

[Ando81 2,949]

Surely it couldn't be as loud as a cheap one I had on an xe years ago, it was about 50mm round and 80mm long and man did it clatter. At one stage it sounded like I had put a hole in the sump and ran the old girl out of oil by the way it was clattering. A mate said he uses a solid state one on his speedway car and he constantly revs it to roughly 5000rpm so it will suit my purpose well.

[XFChris 126]

You're welcome to ask as many questions as you like here Ando81, this thread is open to input from all ozfalcon users

 

If you want a cheap setup, just get yourself a solid state pump off ebay, new fuel lines and hose clamps if needed. Plumb it all in, earth the pump, and take 12v feed from the fuel cut solenoid 12v feed, or wire it to a switch you manually control.

 

The above will get you from A to B and C (I haven't tried D yet) if plumbed and wired properly. Might be a bit heavy on fuel usage but probably not a issue for you as you use LPG most of the time.

 

I run this pump http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-volt-Solid-State-4-to-6psi-130-LPH-Petrol-Universal-New-/130721428894?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6f9ab59e&_uhb=1

 

I have it mounted roughly where the mechanical pump goes. It makes a bit of noise when you switch the pump on, but seems to quieten down a bit once it gets fuel flowing through it, I barely hear it, if at all. while the car is running.

[Ando81 2,949]

Thanks again for the input mate. That is exactly how I had planned to wire and plumb it. Might mount it to the shocker tower somewhere with a good earth and will be right for a test drive next weekend. Got a bit happening over the next few days.

[XFChris 126]

Let us know how you go Ando81.

 

 

Someone mentioned in here that fuel pumps relieving internally wastes fuel, I might have another go at running a fuel return line (using a different check valve) so there isn't too much pressure build up between the fuel pump and regulator.

[Ando81 2,949]

Will do mate. A local mechanic said that with the old clacker style pump that I won't need a return or check valve coz it only makes about 4-5 psi of pressure. It supplies plenty of fuel for his au speedway engine running a 500 holley that revs to 5500 on the track.

[XFChris 126]

How about this guys?

 

I'll delete the fuel pressure reg.

 

Then switch to a 34adm with the fuel return port, then run a return line from there. Would prevent the carb over pressuring, and the pump from having to relieve excess pressure.

 

Thoughts?

[Ando81 2,949]

Let us know how you go Ando81.

 

 

Someone mentioned in here that fuel pumps relieving internally wastes fuel, I might have another go at running a fuel return line (using a different check valve) so there isn't too much pressure build up between the fuel pump and regulator.

 

Will be a while before I can update lads, thanks to aussie post snail mail. Parts didn't come in the mail. Was hoping to do it this weekend.

[XFChris 126]

There's always next weekend. 

 

If you know what size the fittings on the pump are, you can grab new fuel lines now. And get hose clamps too.

[Ando81 2,949]

Yeah I guess so, it's shitty weather this weekend anyway. I will have to light the heater in my shed and have a tidy up instead. It's long overdue anyway so not is all lost.

[mild67 0]

Sorry to hijack this thread. Im running a holley black mounted below tank and its noisy as, this is the only thread I found that mentions the check valve to quieten it down. Does anyone have a link for the correct 7.5psi check valve. Im running 8an braided guel lines if that matters.

[ando76 4,354]

they are available from hydraulic outlets - pirtek enzed etc.  they are usually rated in Bar not psi so you will need to convert to psi and get one to suit your application - I would suggest a relief of 7.5psi as you should not be feeding more that 6.5 to a holley anyway.

 

most of the check valves are adjustable so you if you want to adjust it you will need a pressure fitting on the outboard side of the check valve to see that it is relieving where you want it - basically no lower than 7 psi. 

 

this will shut the pump down a fair bit as will rubber mounting it.

[Ando81 2,949]

So I have just replaced my mechanical fuel pump with a goss clatter pump. It isn't too noisy, I just mounted it on the left hand panel above where the fuel line enters the engine bay, bolts through the inner wheel arch and mounted it onto a piece of rubber to quieten it down a bit. It pumps plenty if fuel to let the old girl rev to 4000rpm so that's plenty for me. No signs of fuel leaks anywhere but the only drama is a small oil leak from where I capped the mechanical pump hole in the block. Only used 2.5mm mild steel and a paper gasket. Took it for a 5km drive and it is damp around the gasket. Was wondering if maybe the 2.5mm might be a bit light and maybe it wasn't quite dead flat or something. Any ideas?

[Crazy2287 1,886]

EFI 250's had a plate that covers the hold from factory. Try n get one of them. Or try and sand the surface of the plate you have made flat with a good flat datum and some sand paper. Or just use some permatex red sealant, make sure the surfaces are clean enough to eat off before you use the sealant and follow the instructions with the "do up finger tight, wait x amount of time and then torque. And give it minimum 8 hours to dry before starting the car.

 

And dont use too much sealant. a 2-3mm bead is plenty. You dont want alot squeezing out. 1 it shows that you used too much and 2, it can get into the engine and block up oil flow paths.

[Ando81 2,949]

Cheers mate, might try to track down a factory one. Good tip about the sealant. Wouldn't want it to block up an oil gallery.

[ando76 4,354]

I use a 4mm piece of alloy - flat sanded on my 25mm thick piece of 20cm x 20cm glass (got cheap from glass shop) and I use Loctite 515 instead of silicone as I find it seals better on these surfaces. 

 

As crazy has pointed out a good clean surface is required otherwise leaks will occur. 

[Crazy2287 1,886]

I like how we have so many Andos in this forum that they need a year model. =P

[Ando81 2,949]

Ha ha, I thought that myself a while ago when I saw ando76 comment on a thread

[ando76 4,354]

I wish 76 was my year model.  It's my race number sadly.

[XFChris 126]

I blanked off where my mechanical pump was, with a EFI xflow blanking plate, I slacked off and didn't use a gasket or sealer, doesn't seem to leak.

[Ando81 2,949]

So after a bit of playing around I am having a struggle with my goss electric fuel pump setup. I was driving along the other day and car started surging on petrol but was fine soon as I went back to gas. I turned the fuel pump on at home when I got home and once it pressurised in the carby, the pump stopped pumping. Is this normal? I pulled off the outlet from the pump and it filled a 2 litre bottle very quickly so I don't think it's a pump or filter problem, I have swapped the screw in solenoid on the side of the carby to see if that helps but still not wanting to run properly. I'm wondering if the pump needs to be able to return to the tank instead of cutting out when it pressurises in the carby. It seems strange because sometimes I can cruise along fine on petrol without any trouble and other times it only runs for a minute of so and dies.

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Having the ability to return to the tank would probably be a good idea given that's how the mech fuel pumps work anyway.

Plus when you think about EFI it returns to the tank so that there is constant pressure behind the injectors, you'd want a similar thing I guess.

[Ando81 2,949]

Was thinking of using a t-piece in the line from the pump to the carb but with a smaller diameter on the return so that the majority of the fuel goes up to the carb instead of returning straight back to the tank.

[gerg 10,871]

Nah those chugga-chugga pumps are internally regulated by the plunger spring. They pump up to pressure then flow stops. It doesn't hurt them doing this. If you look inside them, they're just a metal plunger moved by magnetic windings that are pulsed by some simple electronics inside it, and inlet and outlet check valves. They're designed to operate on a closed-loop fuel system without a return. They come in different pressure ratings to suit your carby operating pressure.

 

Don't do the t-piece thing without running some sort of pressure regulator. Been there done that on my old ski boat. The return pressure generated by the restriction varies too much with the amount of flow. As you step on it, more fuel goes to the carby and less through the return, which drops pressure exactly when you need it.