Electric fuel pump plumbing

[ronny 204]

^^^ For sure, gotta know where you're at

[XFChris 126]

I will get a gauge soon, any brand will do? Or should I at least get a aeroflow, or a marshall like ILIED linked?

 

I wouldnt put another filter for the return line

Also a 6psi max pump wouldnt need a reg/check valve

 

I will probably delete the return line filter once I hook up return line again. And relocate the primary filter to between the fuel pump, and the hard fuel supply line. A clacker type pump like mine shouldn't generate debris, or am I wrong there?

 

How would I run the return line with no check valve? I would need a way to restrict flow to the return line so I don't starve the carb. Just a very small I/D barb? Or is there a better way to do this?

[ILIED 316]

I think any gauge will do.

 

Personally, I think the value of the gauges should reflect the value of the engine. The most expensive engine needs the most expensive gauge.
I cant see the value of a fancy $200 gauge to go on the engine if it'll only do a couple hundred dollars damage if its not accurate.

 

If you had a $30000 engine and were going for your first burnout, you'd want some special gauges, and someone to watch them as you swing the car around

 

Given that you've been driving it with the problems, any gauge should do.

 

I say check the pressure with the engine off. Then,

Check the pressure on idle. Then,

Get a camera taped to your enginebay watching the gauge and take it for a drive. Each time the thing plays up beep the horn (two seconds) after. This will give you a reference to when the issue has happened and you'll still be able to hear the engine through the video. It could be that the pressure is consistent and it'll show nothing on the gauge, but I doubt that.

[ando76 4,354]

Get a gauge in there after the fuel pump so we can see what is going on.  Like ilied said just a cheapo will do.  I prefer to be able to see them at all times so in car mount is the go - BUT ONLY FOR TESTING - DO NOT leave the gauge in car without the proper isolator - but really in this application - once you know what is going on - u should never need to be looking at the gauge again.

 

Leave the check valve in-line.  it will not hurt anything.  if fuel pressure does rise above 7.5psi for any reason you have it there for safety.  I'm not sure how much metal those clacker style pumps make but a filter on the return line can do no harm.  Will stop any shit from entering the tank. 

 

You cant just run a restrictor in the return line - finding the right size restrictor will be a nightmare and you are over complicating a system that is already a bit of overkill for the application.  Having said that if you ever decide to upgrade the pump (and the engine) you already have the best relief system in place. 

[XFChris 126]

Ill get a gauge sorted in the.coming Weeks.

 

I am also having spark issues ill fix them first then reconnect the fuel return line. Maybe my issues with cutting out and power loss are spark related.

[ILIED 316]

I have issues with my MSD dizzy caps. They keep shitting the carbon contact that the rotor button rubs on.
It'll run but it'll die under load.
I can rev the cunt as much as I want but when I mat it it backfires and carries on. Not a coincidence, its happened twice now. No one I know has experienced it.
Also, I've heard if you have a module and your battery is low, it can be cunty as you try to draw more current. I've not experienced that

[XFChris 126]

Whacked a new (fuelmiser) coil on tonight. Old one was a Bosch, looks like its been on the car for some years.

 

Back to Pressure Gauges, would it matter if the gauge is liquid filled or not? I'd probably spend no more than $40 for a a gauge.

[ando76 4,354]

nah just get a cheapo one - I use liquid filled in the race car only because they are more accurate on bumpy surfaces - less needle deflection.  I run a normal one on the burnout car. 

[ronny 204]

^^^ As said, liquid filled gauges designed for high vibration applications

I dont think its required for this car

[XFChris 126]

I've heard a stock weber on a stock xflow (Which is what I've heard) really only needs 4psi or so, is that correct?

 

I've been getting real bad fuel econ... 23L/100km mixed cycle driving. 

 

How about a cheap fuel pressure reg for my application, such as these below

 

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-9-psi-Adjustable-Universal-Deadhead-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Chrome-/310873286598?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48617de7c6&_uhb=1

 

and

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLLEY-STYLE-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-CHROME-ADJUSTABLE-/261209217499?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd14859db&_uhb=1

[ILIED 316]

I'd say get the second one. DEFINITELY NOT  the first one.
Avoid ATRACING WORLD, you might catch AIDS 

[XFChris 126]

Gauge acquired: Seemed to be making 6.5 psi on idle, about 10cm from the carb. 

 

Which means the check valve on the T piece should never have opened (supposed to be  7.25 psi)

 

Fuel Pressure Regulator Acquired: Have set fuel pressure to 4.5 psi at carb. I still need to set idle mix and roadtest.

 

Current setup below, not pretty but does the job

 

[unfamilia 1,938]

Wheres the clamps on your fuel lines. I had a car that droped a line like that. Lucky was only off the lights and lost all power. Droped off into the pump so at least didnt pressurize all through a hot bay.

[XFChris 126]

No clamps used here as the fittings are Barb type. I assumed only one or the other is required. Maybe I'll throw some clamps on if that helps.

[Crazy2287 1,886]

If it's fuel, ALWAYS use clamps. You do not want to be suddenly on fire. It's not a good look.

[bear351c 10,270]

Dude, put hose clamps on them..........seriously.

[ando76 4,354]

sounds like the a faulty check valve.  You now have all the components of a good fuel system, except for the pump.  With that clacker style pump all the other stuff is just overkill now as you know that the pump is only capable of 6.5psi which is near enough to perfect (allowing for a bit of gauge error)

With that clacker style pump I would delete the check valve and regulator as they are just not needed.  regs can be a real restriction to flow. 

Oh and yes hose clamp those fittings.  Proper push on barb fitting do not require them, but those brass jobbies do. 

[XFChris 126]

Hose clamps have been added to all ends of the fuel line

 

Fixed a  fuel leak at the reg, and fuel pressure is now at just above 4 psi. Car is idling almost smooth now (idle was a bit erratic previously)  No problems on a the short roadtest I did. Just need to set the air.fuel mix now.

[unfamilia 1,938]

Lots of win there

[Ando81 2,949]

Sorry to hack the thread fellas but would this plumbing apply to mechanical pump also? I have got dual fuel on my ute and when I got it the pump was not pumping fuel. Put a new fuelmiser mechanical one on and within 18 months it is leaking out of the relief hole in the bottom of it. I drive mostly on gas for economy but run it on petrol at least once a month. The pump supplies fuel to the lock-off solenoid and then to the carby so I was thinking that it may be building up pressure and might not be returning to the tank freely enough which is putting extra stress on the pump seals. Not sure, just guessing.

[Crazy2287 1,886]

Piss the mechanical pump off and plate over the hole. Then run a solid state pump hooked up with the shutoff solenoid. THen you'll only be running the pump when you need to, easy fix and will save you blowing money on another mechanical pump that's just adding load to the valve train all the time for no reason.

[Ando81 2,949]

Cheers crazy, you have made my mind up for me. Was thinking of going that way. So as described above, do I need the check valve and pressure regulator for a stock engine that will only ever be stock, may get thrashed on the odd occasion but is only a daily work car.

[ando76 4,354]

no need for the check valve and regulator if you go the solid state pump - they are not capable of massive pressure like a Holley blue etc.

[Ando81 2,949]

Cool, thanks mate. Final question is do the solid state pumps clatter away like some people say they do?

[ando76 4,354]

Yes - they are commonly known as 'old clackers' for a reason.  Not even close to the racket a Holley blue makes - just a nice consistent clack, clack, clack.  Doubt you would hear it inside the car, if you do reach for the stereo knob and turn up the tunes.  solved.