unfamilia 1,938 Posted February 28, 2014 My top drivers side water pump bolt keeps stripping the thread. I have drilled and tapped it twice already and its up to a m10 size now. Is there anything available like a dyna bolt to use on the hole to hold water pump and alt bracket in? I think the metal will keep stripping Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adrianphu123 73 Posted February 28, 2014 is that the one that keeps leaking? you need to helicoil it, replace the bolt and stop doing it up like a wheelnut 3 scottly, Crazy2287 and XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted February 28, 2014 I have to ask why you keep pulling it in and out all the time anyway...is it leaking alot or another issue? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted February 28, 2014 Maybe like Adrian said and also use a stud on it so you're not torquing the fuck out of the iron thread. 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ronny 204 Posted February 28, 2014 My top drivers side water pump bolt keeps stripping the thread. I have drilled and tapped it twice already and its up to a m10 size now. Is there anything available like a dyna bolt to use on the hole to hold water pump and alt bracket in? I think the metal will keep stripping No offence but how good do you think you are tapping? Its easy to do a bad job, not as easy as people think Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bullfrog 76 Posted February 28, 2014 Use a Recoil. It uses a stainless insert that replaces the original alloy thread. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevemack 122 Posted February 28, 2014 Yeah forget the helis, you can get these recoil thingys that you screw in and it ends up being the same size thread anyway and it's a steel thread. Good shit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted February 28, 2014 Where do you get said recoils? The thread was stripped when I picked upbthis replacement engine. The pump seal between metal plate and pump housing in the end. I thought I just stuffed the gasket goo that's why ive taken it in and out soooooo much. Bought a new pump now anyway. Im not great at tapibg threads but I can get them to grab. Also I havent torqued the bolts like a wheel nut, the thread was striped already so I had to tap it. This time I was finger tightening it with socket end and could feel wasnt gripping. Wasnt cross thread either. I don't take offence to any of the comments made- if I did I wouldnt ask for help. I admit im no expert but this onecwas fucked when I got it. I dont think the alt bracket on that bokt helps either after 40 years Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted February 28, 2014 The most important thing about tapping a thread is to ensure that the hole that you drill to tap is the correct size to suit the thread size and depth, maybe ask an experienced person for the correct sized drill bit to suit the tap that you intend to use a lot of people drill the hole too big and the thread doesn't have deep grooves and this makes the thread easy to strip. 2 slydog and ronny reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted February 28, 2014 If you google a tap drill chart it will show you a variety of tap sizes and what drill size to use, eg for a tap 10mm1.5 thread you use an 8.5mm hole and the tap cuts the 1.5 mm out to make it 10mm. Hope this simplifies things for you 2 slydog and ronny reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted February 28, 2014 Used my mechanics kit he lent me. Has the drill bits and taps and dies. Id really like to find a fix cause I dont want to stuff it more. A threaded sleve would be sweet ir self tapping bolt 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tyler06 266 Posted February 28, 2014 Id be careful because if you thread it out to far there will not be enough meat left to recoil it. If its the water pump then you are in steel which means you are better off getting it done by a pro and save yourself the trouble. Go too far and the block is farked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motorcycles4eva 5 Posted February 28, 2014 I've also used heli coil.. Works great.. Available at spare parts shops Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XPT 673 Posted February 28, 2014 Helicoils are available from most tool suppliers and fastener suppliers. They come in a kit for each size and you get a half dozen or so inserts with it. Like the others say you must drill it square, it's not hard because the drill will follow the old hole, just don't push too hard. Helicoil kits come with the correct size drill for the tap in the kit, there's no brain work involved. Just make sure the tap is nice and square on the first half dozen or so threads and it should be fine the rest of the way in, it doesn't hurt to check it though. Use trefolex or rocol etc cutting compound. When you're done tapping wind in the insert. In the kit you will find the insert driver which drives the tang which goes at the bottom of the thread. Wind the insert in a thread or so below the surface as they can start unwinding if you leave the wire sticking out. Break off the drive tang when you're done as when you wind the bolt in you will damage the bottom of the insert by stretching it if left in. Break off the tang with the little punch provided and blow it out of the hole. The only time I wouldn't bother breaking it is if the thread insert is way deeper than the bolt will go. You can get different length inserts. 1 Ando81 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted February 28, 2014 M10x1.5 needs an 8.5 mm drill. Any bigger and you don't have enough meat to cut a thread Stock bolts are 5/16 UNC I believe. If you've gone out to M10 then it may be already too late to helicoil it, as you may have gone out past the drill/tap size for the 5/16 insert. If going down that route, I certainly wouldn't drill it any more. I would say that a 5/16-18 heli needs a 9.5 drill and appropriate tap. You may need to step up to 3/8 in your case Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted February 28, 2014 Mmmmmm I think im stuffed then. I used a 9mm bit and the m10 tap. So that explains why stripped again. Mmm wonder how a dyna bolt would fix it now :-( Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted March 1, 2014 Any one used ez lok threaded inserts. Just need find somewhere in melbourne to get them. Like a intetnally threaded sleave that you screw in and acts as a new threaded hole. Heavy duty version of a nutsert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted March 1, 2014 That bolts fucked out on mine too, Some monkey had snapped a bolt off in there before i got the car. It's the one that the tensioner bracket for the alternator bolts too yeah? As people have said use a recoil/helecoil. By steel i hope you mean stainless steel. If it's just plain steel it will rust like a mofo. Tapping cast iron can be a bitch so if your not good with a tap then it's very possible the threads have not been forming properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted March 1, 2014 Cool. Will have to work some thing out. Dyna bolt is looking soooo tempting right now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted March 1, 2014 Dyna bolts are for concrete... you'll just push the cast iron apart as you tighten it, possibly stuffing the front of the block. I'd get a Helicoil kit for a 3/8" thread, tap out to size, then install a stud and drill out the bolt hole in the pump and alt bracket to suit. Added bonus is the extra strength of going up a size, plus if you use a stud, you can tighten the nut on the pump to the correct torque, then use another nut after that to tighten down on the alt bracket. If you can get a cordless drill in there, use that to drive the tap. It would be much easier to start your thread straight as you can concentrate on keeping it square as you first cut in. Obviously go slowly and on the slowest setting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevemack 122 Posted March 1, 2014 I have the recoil kits at work, no UNC stuff though, I could get you a 8 x 1.25 threaded insert for nought, from memory the hole size needed is 9.5 or something like that, text me your address if you want one and i'll post one out, easy as piss to put in. 0488723901 IMO heli coils are shit and best not used, once youve used these youll think the same. Got our kit from Begonia city tools. 2 unfamilia and Ando81 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted March 1, 2014 Cheers. Pm sent. Too late for sms Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfamilia 1,938 Posted March 3, 2014 Found loc serts in stainless. Tap hole for m12 and screw it in. Cheap as at $10 for it. Pick up weds ason order Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ronny 204 Posted March 4, 2014 Mmmmmm I think im stuffed then. I used a 9mm bit and the m10 tap. So that explains why stripped again. Mmm wonder how a dyna bolt would fix it now :-( As i said, not as easy as it seems to do a good tap job Firstly as said need to use the right drill bit Also you need to use cutting oil (not any lube) and need to know when to pull the tap out to clean and go again Sharpness of the tap is another variable Its a bit of an art form which im not good at myself Helicoil seems to be the last resort Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregaust 319 Posted March 6, 2014 Try Keensert. They use a larger hole than a helicoil. It is steel threaded insert. Will work sweet there. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
