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Damien Brazendale

351 over heating

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My xd with a mild 351 has got a thing about over heating when driving in town. Out on thr hwy its fine. Its got a new alloy rad, elc water pump and a 14inch fan. Would a bigger sump help and or a oil cooler if there is one?. I am putting thumo fans off a el on it and going ti lift the back of the bonnet up a little. Is there anything else I can do?

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have you checke/replaced thermostat? Usually when that conditions occurs, hot in town/cool at speed its because thermostats been removed (water flowing to fast, and not having time to cool) or not enough air flow from fans.

 

the el thermo fans will help alot, we'll I used them a few times and really like them.

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if you mean its a 14" thermo fan that is WAY WAY too small

 

clevos overheat bad so make sure you check everything, make sure its running a cleveland thermostat not a windsor one like most brands sell, make sure the thermostat bypass ring bellow the thermostat is inplace,  check your timing and mixtures etc

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Which vehicle is it in? Clevos run slightly hotter in XD shape bodies, from my experience. Check bottom hose for collapse when revving. Check ignition timing. Must run a thermostat, and the brass orifice plate under that. Fan shroud is a must too. Whack on a set of EL or AU thermo fans, 14" does sound a little small, as the boys have said. Let us know how ya get on. :)

Silly question.........the electric pump is running ?

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agreed what is said with the above. make sure the damn plate is in there.

 

what brand pump are you running? mezier's or CVRs work, the cheaper ones dont.

what brand is the radiator? and how many core is it? (even a measurement of core thickness will do)

XDEF will run hotter if airflow is not directed towards radiator, they have factory guides there to combat the issue.

 

how far over has the block been bored?

 

what thermostat did you buy? if it's not a high flow one that may be your issue, dayco now make one now, part number is DT66A, it opens at 82 degrees.

tridon etc also make one.

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agreed what is said with the above. make sure the damn plate is in there.

 

what brand pump are you running? mezier's or CVRs work, the cheaper ones dont.

what brand is the radiator? and how many core is it? (even a measurement of core thickness will do)

XDEF will run hotter if airflow is not directed towards radiator, they have factory guides there to combat the issue.

 

how far over has the block been bored?

 

what thermostat did you buy? if it's not a high flow one that may be your issue, dayco now make one now, part number is DT66A, it opens at 82 degrees.

tridon etc also make one.

 

 

 

The dayco version is the best on the market, its actually a flowkooler unit from america, i had dayco bring in the correct unit about 3 years ago as they were selling windsor ones to suit, unfortuantly they are expensive, i sell em in my store for about 30 or 35 bucks from memory but i know bursons and repco were over 70 last time i checked

 

some performance shops sell the same thermostat in a Mildon (spelling?) packet relativly cheap, around the 20-30 bucks last time i checked

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It will be the fan, poor airflow

Clutch fans were put on from factory for a reason

So to replicate that volume of air, good elec fan/s are needed eg el, au fans or aftermarket fan/s with WIDE BLADES

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My Clevo is running EF fans at half speed, only got warm on the hottest of days. Any other time, sits bang on 1/2 way up the gauge.<br /><br />I am running about 35 deg advance at idle (MSD programmable) and it makes a big difference to the temp. I'd give the timing a bump up to 12 and run vac advance from the manifold, not from the carby (ported). Clevos can handle 40 deg total, so keep that in mind too. Factory timing is way retarded in my opinion. They have to allow for all conditions: ie towing a tri-axle caravan across the Nullabor using shit fuel with the aircon going. Nobody actually does that so you have a lot of leeway in adjusting the base timing up to what your engine wants, especially if it has a bit of a cam.

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^^^ yes good point gerg about timing, very true

My big block can run a bit over 40 deg total (with 98 fuel and not very hot weather)

Learning what detonation sounds like is very important for car enthusiasts

That way you can find where your motor wants the timing

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Oil cooler will actually help the engine warm up quicker and regulate engine temps if used in conjunction in the engine radiator.By it's self infront of the engine is a waste of time as it doesn't stay constant or within a working range.Liquid cooling ALWAYS works better than air cooling but it needs to be within the working level.Plus if you use a decent good quality oil you may find it needs to be hot to work.

 

The PM50 I use works best at 90-95 degree's and up and is very resistant to breakdown...

 

The other point was is your water pump a DC unit with a DC controller? I found they vary temps a bit which can cause heating issues.I havn't yet but will be switching to a BIG relay and basic on/off switch for mine and deleting the controller. 

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I havn't yet but will be switching to a BIG relay and basic on/off switch for mine and deleting the controller. 

Did that too, just make sure you dont forget to flick it on lol

That switch always stays on in my car, id rather a slower warm up with all the water at an even temp

I prefer to just leave the fans off for a quicker warm up

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I'm a fan of the engine fan left on...thermostat as well..maybe get a thermostat with cooler temp to open.. Twin thermo fans also help.. And fan shroud too...basic Setup always works best.. What does it idle at? And timing set at?

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I also got a Craig Davis electric fan switch which you can set from 40 to a hundred degrees to cut fans on...saves headaches...they come in different packs..my one has built in relay..cost me 60 bucks from rare spares

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