xd crossflow water pump query

[unfamilia 1,938]

Im getting pissed off as ive had to seal my water pump since installing new motor 3 times. The top drivers side bolt leaks slightly. Every time.

 

Its the only pump I've dealt with that has a plate separating the water pump casting from the block.

I dont have a gasket kit so been trying with goo. Ive only just realised I havent gooed between the plate and the cast pump. Only on the plate and surface to the block.

Is this usual to have to have 2 seals on these things.

Having ac doesnt make it a quick job. Have to remove alt and all the brackets and loosen and move ac compressor. Grrrr

Tips anyone

[adrianphu123 73]

it should be block - sealant - paper gasket - sealant - plate - paper gasket - water pump. Did you put thread sealer on the bolts?

 

The top drivers bolt also holds the alternator bracket. Could you have loosened the bolt while moving the bracket to put the alternator back on?

 

Did you scrape all the old gasket off the block? did you clean the threads of the bolt and the bolt holes?

 

If you can live without aircon, take it off  and grab the alternator only bracket. Looks a lot cleaner, belt changes are a lot easier 

[unfamilia 1,938]

Scraped off all the old gasket from block.

Didnt use thread sealer on thread. Do you mean plumbers tape?

 

Theres no paper gasket between plate and pump housing. Looks like its all coming out again

[ando76 4,354]

sounds to me like it is leaking through the threads - get some pipe sealant on those threads - plumbers tape will do the job but its a bit dodge.  I use CAT pipe sealant - bloody great stuff, but any of the other name and non name brands will do. 

 

I have only ever put a light smear of silicon sealant on the paper gasket to block area.  Never had a leak.  If you are blocking off the heater hose outlet - then tap the thread and put a proper alloy bung in with some pipe sealant on it.  Heaps better than a dodgy rubber bung that was never meant to see heat - like most of them.  This is also a good stealth way to block heaters off for roady - well so some people have told me.

[unfamilia 1,938]

Might just renove bolt and put plumbers tape first. Not as dodgey as stuff ive done before.

Mag wheel nuts clamped in the hose are great to block heater hoses and way better then plastic bungs.

[adrianphu123 73]

just use whatever you used to seal the water pump to the block. give that a try first. If its not leaking between the pump and the block then leave it. they usually do have a gasket between plate and pump so you might have just not taken notice when you installed it. No point touching it if its not leaking. Replace bolts one by one, not all at the same time

[unfamilia 1,938]

Was the pump from my old motor as the pump in the newer one was leaking from the pressure release hole in the pump. So I dindnt have gaskets only goo.

Will try it later tonight its only from that one spot its got the slight weep leak.

[bear351c 10,270]

Pretty sure you can buy both gaskets from Autopro/Repco.

Silastic the threads and the shafts of the bolts.

[unfamilia 1,938]

Oohhh bear.... stop talking about shafts.

[bear351c 10,270]

Settle, Gretel.

[Ando81 2,949]

One thing I've learnt over the years is that using secondhand parts might seem cheap at the time but the headaches that come with them definitely outweigh the savings. No offence man but if you can afford the new parts go with them every time. Especially where it's an engine part, fair enough on panels and stuff but more vital engine parts I reckon should be new. Just my opinion

[unfamilia 1,938]

I agree ando the pump worked fine in old engine. Its just sealing it up from this weep.

Rest of stuff going great. Hope to have new tank in the car next coupe nights.

[gregaust 319]

Try sealing the bolt threads. It might work. Use a thread sealer. The gasket between the plate and pump is not really replaceable

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[unfamilia 1,938]

Well sealed leak at top bolt. Now sprung one on lower face.... it all has to come out AGAIN!!!!!!!!!! F@RK

[Gaz 1,085]

I've got a new pump in Melbourne outer eastern suburbs you can have for 25.

And there's an old mechanics trick to avoid dismantling the whole car to install them.

[unfamilia 1,938]

Oh id love the old mechanics trick to getting them out in a car with ac.

Is it ac water pump or smaller non ac one

[Gaz 1,085]

afaik all XD 6 cyl water pumps are the same, but I was wrong about something once, so this could be the second time.

[unfamilia 1,938]

Ok. Has she forgiven you for being wrong yet?

[unfamilia 1,938]

Ok so water pump was not leaking out the pressure relief hole but I can see the shaft through the hole. Are they usually plugged with wax or something? Is the cavity sealed from the water gallery where the impeller is

 

 

[Gaz 1,085]

No, not plugged. Yes it's sealed

 

You know that orange shit takes between 24 hrs to 7 months to cure don't you? 

[unfamilia 1,938]

Yep. Left it 36 hours last time..... grrr

Let me know if you found seals with that pump

[bear351c 10,270]

The weep hole is there to tell you that the machanical seal inside is FOOKED.!

If water is coming out, your WP is cactus....

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Just go buy a new water pump.

 

And get proper water resistant sealant, wherever you get the pump from should have a sealant for water pumps/thermostat housing.

 

When you install the new pump make sure you've got a decent amount of water out of the block so it's not leaking over the edge and making the face of the block where the gasket goes wet. It should be totally dry for a good seal.

[unfamilia 1,938]

Its not leaking out relief hole. Am getting another pump. Sealant I used was rtv red. Shop said use rtv blue so I got that.

[bear351c 10,270]

Stick one end of a rag in the hole when you take the pump off, and leave the other end hanging down low. Should syphon the water out while you down a coldie.