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SPArKy_Dave

The tyre clearance v's bump stop thread

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After testing the raised height,its really good and you can feel the nose is up ,i went on my usual rat run and hit all the bumps that were scraping the trye b4 and didnt hear or feel anything,the bloke was spot on at 2cm higher than b4,also plenty of room under the bump stop.i will more than likely put a set of shock tower spacers .

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I'm keen for a set.

 

Me too.

 

Ummmm like 4 sets? Not sure. But i think 4 or 5 sets.

 

When your ready just send me an pm and we can go from there.

 

PM sent Q.

 

(i'll just ad in part of the pm here incase it benefits anyone else)

 

You have said that you think 20mm spacers are the limit of what you would want to use, do you think there would be an issue with using them in combination with a strut brace. I haven't yet acquired a brace but most i have seen look like they have pretty thin shock tower mounting rings.
Thinking of trying of cutting and having modified a camry one as suggested long ago in the old "getting your XF to handle like it's on rails" thread on xfalc.
What cha reckon?

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All 20mm.

 

I'd hate for you to blow money on something you may not need. Make sure you go over the thread I linked to determine if you actually NEED shock spacers.

 

If you do, No problem. Will you have issues?

If you jamming another 5mm (Strut brace) under the shock spacer I'm going to say yes. It will be VERY close to the bonnet, and the deflection in the upper shock mount bushes as you drive over bumps might be all it needs to wack a dint in your bonnet. In fact, I recommended anyone running these as is that they should check clearances, as there are small differences in manufacturing tolerances, shocks and bushes (rubber vs polyurethane), it might clear one bonnet on a setup but will hit the next (although i've had no reports of any bonnets been hit yet)

You can easily avoid this by cutting the top off your Shocky, when assembled. Only a couple mm above the nut, then cut a slot in the top with a 1mm blade on an angle grinder that you can put a large flatblade screw driver in to hold the top of the shock still when removing/installing.

 

Go for a drive without your bonnet on and watch your shocky, you'll see how much they move when going over bumps. Plus driving without a bonnet is badass.

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Decided that I'm an archaeologist and dug up this thread again....

 

Thinking about 16 x 8s all round, rears won't be a hassle but fronts are a bit of a worry. Thinking of ET 0 for front, -10 rear to make up for the dumb Falcon rear guards sticking out further.

 

Had this stripped old 15x7 ET10 rim sitting here so I mocked it up to see where it sat in relation to ball joint, etc.

 

Clearance to top ball joint is about half an inch. So if I got a 0 offset 7" rim, that would sit 10mm further away from the ball joint but the 1" extra rim width of an 8" would bring it back in by half that (12.5mm) so clearance would now be 7mm. Bit close for comfort but acceptable.

 

The problem is the outer. Projected line from outer rim up to guard lip sits in by an inch. Calculated difference would be the 10mm offset + half the increase in rim width (again 12.5mm) for a total of 22.5mm further out. Minimum tread width on an 8" is 225mm. Should the wheel tuck up under bump or brake, an 8" might be too wide without lipping the guard, which I really don't want to do.

 

Has anyone run 8" zero offset on the front?

 

 

 

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when the tyre rolls on turn in, will it have a chance of rubbing the sidewall on the upper arm?
Forgot to add, the 16s will put the rim 1/2" up higher in relation to the ball joint, allowing more sidewall clearance (ie: the sidewall bulge sits higher and is less due to lower profile.

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245's on 17" rims and Shelby drop. would rub on bump stop plates. Was not real bad, took a long time before it started to get through the paint. 
3 mm offset or spacer would have sorted it in my case.  I'm running homemade bumpstops now so heaps of clearance. 
FyHo6BE.jpg
That's a bloody good idea right there. Hope mine doesn't have that issue. Maybe a bit of massaging of the spring enclosure would remedy?

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For those that are also running high ball joint angles, savy motorsport make a rebuildable upper and lower ball joint. The uppers are also designed for low ride hights. The billet housing is machined so that it sits flat on the UCA, but is angled to place the joint closer to the middle of its movement at the arm angles most of us are running.

https://savymotorsport.com.au/product/ford-top-ball-joint-studs-and-parts/

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They also have different pin lengths. This means that you can slam the car in the weeds and still have the roll centre in the correct position simply by putting a longer pin in the bottom arm. They are a bit pricey but because they are rebuildable, I think it is worth the money

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6 hours ago, Arrow18 said:

For those that are also running high ball joint angles, savy motorsport make a rebuildable upper and lower ball joint. The uppers are also designed for low ride hights. The billet housing is machined so that it sits flat on the UCA, but is angled to place the joint closer to the middle of its movement at the arm angles most of us are running.

https://savymotorsport.com.au/product/ford-top-ball-joint-studs-and-parts/

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http://howeracing.com/index.php/store/suspension/howe-precision-ball-joints.html?p=1

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I havent run a 16x8 but i can give this comparison for what its worth.... I see you don't want to tap the lip up since you just painted it

I've got 17x8s with 235/40/17 tyres on the front of the xe. Pretty sure theyre 0 offset. They rubed on the lip on the gard just enough to slice one tyre a bit. (Running 1deg neg camber)
Ended up hammering up the lip (not flared) and now theres enough room when the tyre tucks in the gard. Doesn't rub anymore. Could probably fit a 245/40 tyre without rubbing easily enough.

The xf has 14x8" on the front with 245/50/tyres. Note sure on offset, mabye 0 or slightly negative. The gards have had the lips hammered up on it. At a guess, these tyres might tuck an inch before they rubed due to the bulging sidewall. To get that low you'd need modified bump stops and probably uca, would be pretty slammed lol



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Great info there Kiwi-E and very interesting about the 235s. I was thinking of going 225 to be safe but it might look a bit too rimmy with such a small section tyre on an 8" (though considered minimal on that size rim). You're right about not lipping the guard, I really don't want to chip a new paint job.

 

I'm still considering 17s with 0 offset front, -10 rear. Looks like ball joint clearance isn't an issue with that size rim, puts it all above the arm anyway. With Shelby drop, as Crazy mentioned, it might gain some camber as the wheel comes up under load, bringing the tyre away from the guard but closer to the bump stop/spring enclosure.

 

Maybe I could run a bit of positive offset to bring the wheel in away from the lip and mod the spring enclosure to clear the tyre to suit. Might have to start watching clearance to the the radius (camber) rod though.

 

Forgot to mention, found a new 15x8 -9 rim that I had stashed away, it's a Performance Challenger (basically a dished Globe copy) that's one of two I originally bought for the rear of the XB but one got stolen. I have this one left and trialled it the other day and looks good size-wise, has heaps of clearance to the balljoint.

 

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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225 on the 8" wouuld barely look streched aslong as it wasn't a really low profile.

 

With my 235's i probably could have got away with just 'trimming' the wide parts off the lip (where its like 10mm wide), leaving the lip maybe 5-6mm wide. I think this might have given just enough clearance.

 

Although not ideal, you could trim it and hopefully not cook the new paint, as opposed to folding it up and splitting the new paint.

 

Decisions decisions.........

 

 

Ps, just get another 3 challanger rims to suit

 

 

 

 

 

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