RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 14, 2013 My 351 that i got rebuilt has had a premature death. after about 1000ks ffs.... So i am going to put the 302w i have in my xb. it has a torker 2 manifold and an impco425, extractors(shorty ltd ones) , still retains the stock accessorys on the front, will be pulling the clutch fan off in favor of thermos Just wondering is there any little issues i should consider ? ie Sump Clearance? Does the powersteering pump on the 1994/302ws work with a steering box? I am 99.999% sure the bellhousing pattern is the same.. ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gromet88 3,042 Posted December 14, 2013 i would say all is different. power steering lines, right through to bell housing bolts will be totally different. the set up is totally different from the early early x series to the e series and you will have a different sump pan/ clearance as well. the engine mounts would be different as well (from memory). it'll be basically like doing a e series set up into an xf. all from memory, from what i remember a friend doing a nc2 302 into a XB. REV will be the best to answer i think, but the question must be asked, what the hell happened to the 351? 1 steve mcqueen reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 14, 2013 Yeah, what he said ^^^^what happened, mate...?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 14, 2013 i would say all is different. power steering lines, right through to bell housing bolts will be totally different. the set up is totally different from the early early x series to the e series and you will have a different sump pan/ clearance as well. the engine mounts would be different as well (from memory). it'll be basically like doing a e series set up into an xf. all from memory, from what i remember a friend doing a nc2 302 into a XB. REV will be the best to answer i think, but the question must be asked, what the hell happened to the 351? Guy who built it , used non hardend push rods, they rubbed out on the guides and all the swarf killed the oil pump Im gonna mock it up and see how it goes, i will be making braided lines up for the a/c and the power steering, lpg, everything lol. im gonna sus out my clevo sump i have laying around, and compare it to the 302w Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted December 14, 2013 I have an roller 302w from an au3 xr8 for my xd, but runs carb. any way, you use the Cleveland engine mounts and chassis mounts, the bell housing is 6 bolt same as clevo, if you have to remember the late model 302s have 50oz flex plate or flywheel. You can re use the clevo starter if running a c4 etc. The late 302 has a reverse rotation water pump, won't matter if using the original belt system. You can buy of the shelf headers to suit aswell. I don't run power steer so cant help there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted December 14, 2013 I'm using the standard sump which came with motor, no clearance issues. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 14, 2013 I have an roller 302w from an au3 xr8 for my xd, but runs carb. any way, you use the Cleveland engine mounts and chassis mounts, the bell housing is 6 bolt same as clevo, if you have to remember the late model 302s have 50oz flex plate or flywheel. You can re use the clevo starter if running a c4 etc. The late 302 has a reverse rotation water pump, won't matter if using the original belt system. You can buy of the shelf headers to suit aswell. I don't run power steer so cant help there. as for the 50oz flywheel. is that the same as a clevo? how do i know which direction to point the balance weight ? thx for the info man! Are you running the ac/alternator ect off of the newer motor? or did you get an older pulley setup and put on it ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted December 14, 2013 the e series 02 will go straight in the bolt pattern for the bell housing is the same the sump is the same,you might need to chase down your local pirtik man to make you 2 power steering hoses take off the efi inlet manifold and ditch that ,use the electronic dizzy its really easy to wire up ,leave the serpentine belt were it is ,if you delete the aircond you can you a short belt to get around that, the factory headers ford used will go straight in as well make sure you use all the senders from your old motor temp oil etc 2 Stevemack and RAWDEAL reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted December 14, 2013 Clevo is 28oz, the flex plate or flywheel can only bolt on one way due to how the bolt holes go. Late model 50oz flywheels are 157 teeth, and you would require a manual starter motor. I am using the alt off my xd, just got the brackets to suit Windsor, plus a Gilmour set up which ment I had to replace water pump to a normal rotation one. No ac on this car, we only get up to mid 20s in the summer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 14, 2013 the e series 02 will go straight in the bolt pattern for the bell housing is the same the sump is the same,you might need to chase down your local pirtik man to make you 2 power steering hoses take off the efi inlet manifold and ditch that ,use the electronic dizzy its really easy to wire up ,leave the serpentine belt were it is ,if you delete the aircond you can you a short belt to get around that, the factory headers ford used will go straight in as well make sure you use all the senders from your old motor temp oil etc Yeah might get the lines made up in the USA and sent over, not sure, i know a year or so i priced it up and it was cheap, the dollars gone to shit now though lol Motor already has a torker 2 on it , impco 425, so should be sweet there if i decide to leave the aircon on the motor/, but not yet plumb it, will it ruin the ac pump? one of the welsh plugs on the side of the block is a bit Iffy lol. Are any brand welsh plugs alright or should i get brass ones/screw in ones/?? 1 RAWDEAL reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted December 14, 2013 the lines shouldnt cost u more then 200 bucks,leaving the air con pump on wont hurt it just make sure it has oil in it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 14, 2013 the lines shouldnt cost u more then 200 bucks,leaving the air con pump on wont hurt it just make sure it has oil in it Should i make up a plate to block the ports or somehow run a pipe between them so that it can circulate? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted December 14, 2013 i dont think itl matter as its not pumping just get find some of those little soft plastic caps to put over them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted December 14, 2013 personally I would replace all bar one of the Welch plugs with.brass ones, use a steel Welch plug in the location that's easiest to change without pulling the engine so it essentially ends up as a sacrificial lamb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 17, 2013 personally I would replace all bar one of the Welch plugs with.brass ones, use a steel Welch plug in the location that's easiest to change without pulling the engine so it essentially ends up as a sacrificial lamb Sacrificial anode.!! LOVE IT !. Thanks Thom. 1 revhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 18, 2013 personally I would replace all bar one of the Welch plugs with.brass ones, use a steel Welch plug in the location that's easiest to change without pulling the engine so it essentially ends up as a sacrificial lamb Are you meaning (forgive me because i have no idea), That the Brass ones will last but the steel one will rust out/rust out sooner ? Wouldnt it be just easier to have all brass ones lol ? :S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted December 18, 2013 it is easy to use all brass but the rust will eat something else like the block or the heads ,so fitting one steel welsh plug means the rust attacks this instead of the affore mentioned parts ,lol 1 Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 18, 2013 Yep, that's it.! Put the steel one in the easiest position to get at. Will last years and years with regular coolant changes. It's kinda like having termites in your yard, so you leave a nice pine log down by the back fence, so they eat that and not your house. 1 Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted December 18, 2013 it is easy to use all brass but the rust will eat something else like the block or the heads ,so fitting one steel welsh plug means the rust attacks this instead of the affore mentioned parts ,lol Yep, that's it.! Put the steel one in the easiest position to get at. Will last years and years with regular coolant changes. It's kinda like having termites in your yard, so you leave a nice pine log down by the back fence, so they eat that and not your house. exactly, also means if one goes you can put it in the most accessible position in the car to prevent removing the engine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted December 21, 2013 Basically with metals, the one that's easiest to strip elections from will corrode first. Steel will go before brass ( due to the copper component) like zinc will before iron . Could get really techy here but will leve it at that for now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 25, 2013 Ill order a brass kit online today or tommorrow . due to nothing being open/im at work durking buisness hours Anyone know a good site or set to buy online? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 26, 2013 Ill order a brass kit online today or tommorrow . due to nothing being open/im at work durking buisness hours Anyone know a good site or set to buy online? Got a Supercheap auto gift card for xmas, 6.5$ for a set of TWO 1 1/2 inch brass welch plugs... so around 20$ for the 6.. silly me bought 8 though thinking i needed 8 lol Now i am researching flywheels/clutch kits for the windsor i thought id be able to get away with the clevo stuff but they are different ffs lol not sure if i want to spend another 500-1000$ on a clutch kit ect because the clevo might cost less than that to fix i have been told that the oil pump that was installed in my 351c when built was a high volume pump with a high as fuck pressure spring in it 100psi plus.. he hasnt stripped the motor yet but he has pressure tested the water system and it may have also blown a head gasket lol. Im gonna wait to see what new parts it needs after he strips it. if its less than 1000$ish to get rebearinged and put back together ill go that route.. if its more.. ill buy the clutch kit for the windsor lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 26, 2013 Clevo is 28oz, the flex plate or flywheel can only bolt on one way due to how the bolt holes go. Late model 50oz flywheels are 157 teeth, and you would require a manual starter motor. I am using the alt off my xd, just got the brackets to suit Windsor, plus a Gilmour set up which ment I had to replace water pump to a normal rotation one. No ac on this car, we only get up to mid 20s in the summer. can i get a 50oz flywheel that is the same diameter/tooth count as the clevo one i have that way i can use the clevo starter? would that work ? considering i am using the bellhousing that i have used for the clevo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted December 26, 2013 I've only ever seen the 157 tooth 50oz flywheels. You can use a clevo starter, as long as it suits a flywheel not flex plate,, something to do with the gear extending out further for the flywheel? What gear box are you using? T5, single rail or top loader? I got my flywheel and clutch from summit racing, all mustang stuff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted December 27, 2013 I've only ever seen the 157 tooth 50oz flywheels. You can use a clevo starter, as long as it suits a flywheel not flex plate,, something to do with the gear extending out further for the flywheel? What gear box are you using? T5, single rail or top loader? I got my flywheel and clutch from summit racing, all mustang stuff. Its a later model tr6060 6 speed manual the bellhousing is a quicktime one I WAS using a 351c/tr6060 with the old clevo starter i had from when the car was a c10 auto Share this post Link to post Share on other sites