Jump to content
matt_lamb_160

Wastegate positioning

Recommended Posts

Lol @ telling stories. <br /><br />Like I said, wastegate off the turbine housing is the best form of boost control and it's not that hard to do, for someone half competent anyways.

 

Not overly hard to weld just as explained have to pre heat the cast item before welding.Fixed a few camping cook pots in this manner that are still fine today and they get many many heat cycles.The placement on the turbine would be ideal aswell so I would buy a new 1 as above or weld the housing as explained.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not overly hard to weld just as explained have to pre heat the cast item before welding.Fixed a few camping cook pots in this manner that are still fine today and they get many many heat cycles.The placement on the turbine would be ideal aswell so I would buy a new 1 as above or weld the housing as explained.

Mate, where do you get off with such stupid comparisons.

 

The gate on housing will work fine, no dramas. But comparing your bush tucker pot which hits a max of 280 degrees or so to a turbine housing which can see 1000 degrees and with stupid pressures is like saying .....well.... it's just not like saying anything sensible at all.

 

Do the world a favour and stop chiming in on shit you have no clue about.

 

Your cook pot is not a turbine housing.

 

All this false information is not helpful.

 

It will work but welding a pot and welding a turbine housing is no where near the friggen same. Stick to your crossflows.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So your calling Millan and Charles idiot's too cos they recommend it and Charles has actually done it or do you mean just me? 

 

Beyond that I infact know how too and do weld my own stuff (just like Charles and Millan/Branko do) or you can check my build thread that I actually do not sub out or pay for so maybe I do have more idea about this than you can accept.Besides having welded for oh about just over about 16 odd years I have welded up cast exhaust manifolds before with no failures or issues but perhaps you can show us all the ones you have done to show how wrong everyone else is and why your the worlds expert on the matter seeing as you don't have the hardware to do anything mentioned above.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

good read this

my cortina has a cast manifold on it and the wastgate on 1 side of the manifold its on 18 psi and makes 250killer wasps on a almost stock engine so they must work ok it does boost creep a little but

bye wes :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No doubt it would "work" as the top of the collector is open, but I could see that it was less than ideal and was after ideas on how to fix it which I have received.

 

 

The cast welding is not a major issue, I can use cast steam pipe and Ni rods (pre-heat does not need to be super hot), but then welding my s/steel v-band flange to cast I am not sure? Some have suggested "buttering" the cast with Ni and then welding the s/steel to the Ni???

 

A good manifold that already had a v-band flange to suit a 44mm Tial wasgate would be nice :) .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No doubt it would "work" as the top of the collector is open, but I could see that it was less than ideal and was after ideas on how to fix it which I have received.

 

 

The cast welding is not a major issue, I can use cast steam pipe and Ni rods (pre-heat does not need to be super hot), but then welding my s/steel v-band flange to cast I am not sure? Some have suggested "buttering" the cast with Ni and then welding the s/steel to the Ni???

 

A good manifold that already had a v-band flange to suit a 44mm Tial wasgate would be nice :) .

I migged SS to Cast using Nirod years ago, not on an exhaust housing (lining a cast pump) but principal applies regardless.

"Buttering" does work and gives the weld something to "bite" onto, join some scrap pieces first to perfect you technique if you have doubts, but it definitely can be done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1. Avoid having extra flange joints pre turbine... so no gate adapter plates.

2. Reallistically u should have the gate either off both branches, if a log manifold, one off to the side is fine. The turbine option is ok, just ensure its welded right.

 

lol at the pissing contest though..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, agreed extra flanges are asking for leaks.

 

Looking at making a manifold (low mount high gate) now or getting a good cast log one.

 

KLR250's old low mount mani had the wastegate between number 5 and 6. Mine will be in the centre but it just shows what can 'work' (on logs at least).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool thread......

What do you guys think of the positioning on THIS manifold? Its basically a stocker-style that runs straight to wastegate from original exhaust port, with turbo on the side. Running 16lb boost & no BOV. See if you can make it out from the pics. I can't seem to make them big?

 

post-1025-0-38487500-1388831794_thumb.jpg

post-1025-0-28169000-1388831764_thumb.jpg

post-1025-0-94560300-1388831801_thumb.jpg

post-1025-0-03587800-1388831775_thumb.jpg

post-1025-0-34009000-1388831808_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey mate, use photobucket and links etc to upload full size pics. A long shot of the setup would help. From what I can tell it looks like you've cut a hole and welded a turbo flange onto a stock cast iron exhaust manifold and used the old exhaust outlet as a wastegate feed. Correct ? I'm not an absolute messiah of turbo manifolds but I have made/modified a couple that turned out ok. That setup is crude looking and probably not absolutely ideal for power with all of the sharp angles etc. However, if it does control boost (you said running 16psi), you're happy with the spool up and overall power, it probably works fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah looks ok to me, the stock iron manifold might be a bit weak in some spots, time will tell. Turbos are more about pressure than flow and I've seen some factory diesel ones that look like shit (literally a log manifold with a flange) but they work. VL turbo ones were nothing to look at but did the job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After the engine was in the car I basically bolted the Turbo on to the Manifold & gave it to the exhaust shop. Told them I needed Starter Motor access without pulling it out & showed them where to put the Wastegate. 1700 Bucks later...This is the first time Ive actually had the whole piece out as is together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×