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C4 Rebuild Advice.

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Hi guys my C4 has decided to give up on me, it has lost reverse and all engine braking in 1st gear which has lead me to believe after much reading that it's more than likely I have dropped the posts off my low reverse band, either way it's due for a rebuild as it has done allot of hard work over the years.

 

My engine on a good day with a good tune should make 400hp @ flywheel so it's no monster, I know the stock trans handled it no worries but I'm just  wondering what else can be done cheaply to strengthen one and make it shift better to preserve the life of clutches? 

 

I'm looking at one of these VB's as they seem to be highly recommended for street aplications?? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TCI-Auto-Valve-Body-Streetfighter-Automatic-Manual-Forward-Pattern-Ford-C-4-Each-/330985458280?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d10454a68&_uhb=1

 

I run a 3000 converter and have a decent cooler setup, I hear that a bigger intermediate servo piston helps these things shift better when they have more power thrown at them, to be honest I don't know what I should get done as I'm no trans expert, my local tranny guy said 1200 built and fitted which is a good price imo so just want to get the low down on what I can get him to do which is relatively easy if he is gonna pull it down and reco it. Cheers =D

 

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stage 2, heavy duty frictions and clutches, cooling mods, deep sump.

 

Next step would to be too add extra clutch in the forward drum, billet (4 or 6) pinion planetary set, billet 'c' servo

 

Then you could go billet input shaft, and full rollerize to use bearings instead of thrust washers.

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Cheers for that info, maybe a lil extreme for my HP application but would be nice lol Is there any machining required for added clutches? The stage 2 kit sounds good and same with the heavy duty clutches, a mate recommended a tci rebuild kit?? I can see this getting out of hand already =\ Full rollerized sounds like it would free up some power yeah? Hmmm I'm starting to drool on my keyboard.  

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Yes there is.

 

I just had my c4 done a week ago.

Cost just over $1500 including heavy duty standard converter, but not including any valve body stuff as it had been done already, and new pump assembly, full c4 overhaul, using performance frictions and clutches, standard rebuilt clevo 'r' servo, new gearset and cooling mods.

This ran through a B&M supercooler.

 

Thing shifts real nice and firm yet I probably wouldn't push anymore than 400hp past it.

 

Even with all those mods I still consider my trans to be standard.

 

I did a lot of research and any more and the more $$$ mods were needed, as such as adding clutches, billet plantary etc.

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I am going through this process atm as a result of killing the c4 in my burnout ute. I have just ordered the TCI SUPER PRO rebuild kit thru summit racing ($250US). This kit is the same kit that they use in there fully assembled streetfighter trans which are good for 350-400hp and include clutches, bands, springs and pump bushes, seals and a shift kit. Great value IMHO.

I already have a transgo shift kit in my valve body so I will not be using the shift kit option and I have re-bushed my pump already but for the money I could not go past this kit as it suits my application, i.e. up to 400hp.

Yes four pinion planetry gears and billet servo's would be nice, look good and have that wank factor but if they don't use them in their kits that are tailored up to 400hp then why would I need them? I'm lucky in that my mechanic mate did his time on autos so I'm just up for beer money (and he can drink) for the assembly. After watching him do the valve body mods I can tell you that you have to know your shit to play with bloody autos and you need a very big and super clean work bench, and everything you do on them takes more time (labour) then you can imagine. In other words the parts are cheap but the labour will kill you.

Good luck whichever way you go.

 

Oh and I ordered one of their deep, finned aluminium pans and a B&M trans temp gauge while I was at it. I don't think my failure was heat related but it was cheap insurance. $130 for the pan and $50 for the gauge.

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