Jump to content
Thom

Thom's 4.0l thread

Recommended Posts

Wouldn't be surprised if it ends up, Au short, Ef xr6 head, ea cam bbm, It made 178rwkw with a tune and cost less than $500 in parts to build, I pulled heaps of them apart at pick a part just to see what's different between them

I think Mcfly needs to read this thread. A powerful motor with 178rwkw cost less than $500.

Thom, you the man ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tune and fuel system to get to that power level cost more than the engine but I drove it for 6 months (bear in mind I do 100ks a week just going to work and back) with the stock engine management and fuel system and it still made 144rwkw without the broadband intake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And knowing how you drive is a testament to how they can go in factory form...LOL

 

I like the AU head idea for the smaller valve stem sizes,less weight for better control at RPM with a lighter spring which would make it easier on the already stressed billet rollers on a big HP NAT ASP combo.The down side is the port work to compensate for the flow figures but again sometimes flow figures are just figures and in the real world can mean jack shit and work just as good anyway.

 

I know engine builders always want lighter everything but these bottom ends are smoother than a EF even though the cranks are heavier,they have a stronger bottom end and generally speaking the head is more reliable with less lifter rattles and no more blown head gaskets.Ford finally got it sorted on this one and I'd love to spend some time on 1 to see how I could make it go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wouldn't be surprised if it ends up, Au short, Ef xr6 head, ea cam bbm, It made 178rwkw with a tune and cost less than $500 in parts to build, I pulled heaps of them apart at pick a part just to see what's different between them

 

As long as you don't wreck them in the process......My pet hate is seeing all these grouches at pick a part wreck perfectly good componentry. Some c$%k sucker pulled a T5 out the other day just to take the input shaft! :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Or flip a car on its roof to pull the diff out with a forklift and a gas axe. Its like they think that the car one usefull part in it and they will just crush the rest. My pet hate was when some toss wants a stereo so they bust all the plastics out tear the door trims off and leave them lying in the dirt with the doors wide open completely destroying every part of the interior for a friggen second hand head unit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes i hate that crap to. pull apart whole clusters to get some resistors or something. just rip off trims or cut wires to get to shit. i use to know a dude that would do that shit and id absolutely crack the shits at him every time he done it. like its its not fucked then dont fuck it man. people might need that bit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the AU head idea for the smaller valve stem sizes,less weight for better control at RPM with a lighter spring which would make it easier on the already stressed billet rollers on a big HP NAT ASP combo.The down side is the port work to compensate for the flow figures but again sometimes flow figures are just figures and in the real world can mean jack shit and work just as good anyway.

 

With some beehive springs with smaller retainers and your ahead some more

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Memorycard2855.jpg

 

Whats this cam like?  I mean how did you come to the decision to order it?  Reasons is i just bought an EF wreck for a few goodies and it had a crowcam in it with specs around that mark and i dont know whether or not its worth fitting it?  Its got a bit more lift than the XR cam ive got.

 

Crow 2222519

IN. 20/62  DUR-262  Lift at valve - .494"

EX.64/14  DUR-258  Lift at valve - .472"

LSA - 113

RPM RANGE 1200 - 4500

 

Im thinking its looking a bit small???  its got about 35 thou more lift on the inlet than the XR cam but and about 30 thou less lift than there largest listed cam.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You need a degree wheel boy :o

 

It would have to be in the head on a chain and torqued down for that too LOL

 

I asked the cam bloke for a high torque cam, which would have a bit of a lope to the idle, and work well with an auto, 1800rpm stall, and 3.23 diff.

That's what he made me.

 

Righto, well like i said earlier there is sfa difference between their entrance level cam and there top end cams all except their speedway cam is quite timid spec wise.   We will see how they go i spose.  its an extra $850 to install the custom grind that camtech was quoting me on so it will have to wait until ive got the coin asside unfortunately.  If i spent that now i would have none left to get it back in the hole hahaha.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That cam cost me $450.00 from memory, ground by Clive Cams, using a Crow Cams billet blank (which Clive provided),

which Crow have cut and turned up roughly to shape, by a mob in Turkey somewhere.

 

edit - I got it to go in my $1,500.00 flowed, ported / port matched head,

for which I FINALLY (Yay!) found the flow sheet for the other day, after misplacing it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To me a cam is not big till it is over 550 lift and 250 duration @50,these heads show those sort of figures are not needed on a OHC engine which indicates a well flowing head.Still lift ='s torque but these engines seem to suffer from poor rocker design and even brake billet rockers on competition style engines.

 

I'd love to jam a BIG cam in one and fill with methanol and compression to see what it could do cos I belive you could find NAT ASP hp easier with a OHC than a xflow based on the head as the bottom ends never really changed that much anyway.    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thread revival.. more questions.

eg.. have a current XG XR6 TICKford engine.. tired.. (noisy lifters etc)

running on dual fuel Impco(will attempt to fit an impco 425 in place of the 200 in front of the throttle body, log manifold)

don't really want to pull the XR6 engine apart..

 

not wanting extractors, figure the impco gas will be the biggest restriction..

thinking of a drop in engine that would be better(modding sump still fits the drop in rule for Egas AU engine)

 

due to running LPG, would the AU Egas be the better choice, preferably on dual fuel, even with the log manifold.

would an EL ecu be the best bet from one with tickford LPG fitted, assuming it can plug n play with a few wires added(for EL fans etc)

 

related questions that need confirming..

1. will it fit, mounting on XG base mounts and engine mounts(because its an XG with them already)

2. due to radiator hose diameter changing, will an EL radiator fit in XG(air con pipes might be in the way.. can move)

3. will the log manifold from the XG fit on the AU motor and be happy on premium petrol for dual fuel

4 will the AU serpentine setup on the AU pumps etc fit in the XG.. heard there is clearance issues on something, what's the fix if so

5. being auto, if using an AU auto, can the XG btr dipstick be fitted to the AU trans if its in better condition

6. will the AU auto plug n play with the XG wiring..

7. would an EL engine be a better option for various reasons(sump for eg, what about pumps clearance)

 

are the EL tickford Gas engines any different to a petrol one(cam,comp ratio etc)

will a 3.45 diff ratio cause any issues on an EL ecu etc from something with say 3.08 etc (assuming thats what the EL came with)

 

is it worth using the EL engine, to make use of the XG XR6 cam if its in good condition still.(rather than the AU Egas)

is an XG XR6 ecu better than an EL one in any way..

would the BBM manifold be better than a log manifold when it has an Impco gas mixer as a restriction

 

paging Thom etc..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thread revival.. more questions.

eg.. have a current XG XR6 TICKford engine.. tired.. (noisy lifters etc)

running on dual fuel Impco(will attempt to fit an impco 425 in place of the 200 in front of the throttle body, log manifold)

don't really want to pull the XR6 engine apart..

 

not wanting extractors, figure the impco gas will be the biggest restriction..

thinking of a drop in engine that would be better(modding sump still fits the drop in rule for Egas AU engine)

 

due to running LPG, would the AU Egas be the better choice, preferably on dual fuel, even with the log manifold.

would an EL ecu be the best bet from one with tickford LPG fitted, assuming it can plug n play with a few wires added(for EL fans etc)

 

related questions that need confirming..

1. will it fit, mounting on XG base mounts and engine mounts(because its an XG with them already)

2. due to radiator hose diameter changing, will an EL radiator fit in XG(air con pipes might be in the way.. can move)

3. will the log manifold from the XG fit on the AU motor and be happy on premium petrol for dual fuel

4 will the AU serpentine setup on the AU pumps etc fit in the XG.. heard there is clearance issues on something, what's the fix if so

5. being auto, if using an AU auto, can the XG btr dipstick be fitted to the AU trans if its in better condition

6. will the AU auto plug n play with the XG wiring..

7. would an EL engine be a better option for various reasons(sump for eg, what about pumps clearance)

 

are the EL tickford Gas engines any different to a petrol one(cam,comp ratio etc)

will a 3.45 diff ratio cause any issues on an EL ecu etc from something with say 3.08 etc (assuming thats what the EL came with)

 

is it worth using the EL engine, to make use of the XG XR6 cam if its in good condition still.(rather than the AU Egas)

is an XG XR6 ecu better than an EL one in any way..

would the BBM manifold be better than a log manifold when it has an Impco gas mixer as a restriction

 

paging Thom etc..

 

Ok where to start, the au egas engine retro fitted will need an au trans (the bellhousing at least as e series bolts to the engine but the supports/ bottom of the sump doesn't match e series bellhousing) but the engine mounts will all bolt up and fit once you modify the sump, an au trans can't be retrofitted with a dip stick the casings are different, the ac pump bracket and the tensioner off an xh need to be sourced unless you're willing to swap to a xg timing cover to use the early belt setup, the xg dizzy loom and sensors (except temp sender unless you use the xg t Stat housing which you will need if you use the log intake and the coil won't mount to the block) will all fit straight up to the au engine, you the xg xr6 cam is the best one to use out of but you can't use it with the au head (or late el hybrid engine) I wouldn't bother with a BBM or el ecu in your case (xg xr6 had a improved log manifold and the gains from a BBM are negligible and it will bolt up but you need the xg t Stat housing, heater pipes and dipstick tube) as it requires a loom change unless your good with changing ecu pinouts, 3.45 will work with your ecu as it should have had one standard and the shift points will be in the right spot,

El tickford Gas engines are just a standard base speck 4.0 nothing special, (you would end up with a great lpg engine using you xr6 head on an au short, giving close to 10.1 comp and will run fine on 95/98 octane) the au auto will be fine with the XG wiring but you would need to change the speedo sender there's a couple of other things bit I'm having a brain farther at the moment

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×