steve mcqueen 1,796 Posted July 13, 2013 Wouldn't be surprised if it ends up, Au short, Ef xr6 head, ea cam bbm, It made 178rwkw with a tune and cost less than $500 in parts to build, I pulled heaps of them apart at pick a part just to see what's different between them I think Mcfly needs to read this thread. A powerful motor with 178rwkw cost less than $500. Thom, you the man 3 fordstu, dizzy616 and GspecZL reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted July 13, 2013 The tune and fuel system to get to that power level cost more than the engine but I drove it for 6 months (bear in mind I do 100ks a week just going to work and back) with the stock engine management and fuel system and it still made 144rwkw without the broadband intake 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 13, 2013 And knowing how you drive is a testament to how they can go in factory form...LOL I like the AU head idea for the smaller valve stem sizes,less weight for better control at RPM with a lighter spring which would make it easier on the already stressed billet rollers on a big HP NAT ASP combo.The down side is the port work to compensate for the flow figures but again sometimes flow figures are just figures and in the real world can mean jack shit and work just as good anyway. I know engine builders always want lighter everything but these bottom ends are smoother than a EF even though the cranks are heavier,they have a stronger bottom end and generally speaking the head is more reliable with less lifter rattles and no more blown head gaskets.Ford finally got it sorted on this one and I'd love to spend some time on 1 to see how I could make it go. 1 GspecZL reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xeeclipse 37 Posted July 13, 2013 Wouldn't be surprised if it ends up, Au short, Ef xr6 head, ea cam bbm, It made 178rwkw with a tune and cost less than $500 in parts to build, I pulled heaps of them apart at pick a part just to see what's different between them As long as you don't wreck them in the process......My pet hate is seeing all these grouches at pick a part wreck perfectly good componentry. Some c$%k sucker pulled a T5 out the other day just to take the input shaft! 1 Fingers reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted July 14, 2013 Or flip a car on its roof to pull the diff out with a forklift and a gas axe. Its like they think that the car one usefull part in it and they will just crush the rest. My pet hate was when some toss wants a stereo so they bust all the plastics out tear the door trims off and leave them lying in the dirt with the doors wide open completely destroying every part of the interior for a friggen second hand head unit. 3 Fingers, steve mcqueen and dizzy616 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dizzy616 183 Posted July 14, 2013 yes i hate that crap to. pull apart whole clusters to get some resistors or something. just rip off trims or cut wires to get to shit. i use to know a dude that would do that shit and id absolutely crack the shits at him every time he done it. like its its not fucked then dont fuck it man. people might need that bit 1 Fingers reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted July 14, 2013 I like the AU head idea for the smaller valve stem sizes,less weight for better control at RPM with a lighter spring which would make it easier on the already stressed billet rollers on a big HP NAT ASP combo.The down side is the port work to compensate for the flow figures but again sometimes flow figures are just figures and in the real world can mean jack shit and work just as good anyway. With some beehive springs with smaller retainers and your ahead some more 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted July 14, 2013 She's come standard with bee hives Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted July 14, 2013 Is that so, I never took notice to be truthful. Scratch my last post hahahaha Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted July 14, 2013 Au ones do yes. And ive had a look over the weight drop and while i havent removed anything yet you can see the rockers are thinner in there width, along with the lighter valves and conical springs it would be some good HP gains right there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FORD_MAN 1,026 Posted July 14, 2013 I wonder what lift the au springs are good for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted July 14, 2013 From memory about .492" lift before they hit coil bind Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted August 2, 2013 Whats this cam like? I mean how did you come to the decision to order it? Reasons is i just bought an EF wreck for a few goodies and it had a crowcam in it with specs around that mark and i dont know whether or not its worth fitting it? Its got a bit more lift than the XR cam ive got. Crow 2222519 IN. 20/62 DUR-262 Lift at valve - .494" EX.64/14 DUR-258 Lift at valve - .472" LSA - 113 RPM RANGE 1200 - 4500 Im thinking its looking a bit small??? its got about 35 thou more lift on the inlet than the XR cam but and about 30 thou less lift than there largest listed cam. 1 PH351 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gav 616 Posted August 2, 2013 Just thought I'd add my two cents. I measured up some cams a while back. Proves the EA cam....87 DA is "bigger" than the EB/ED 91DA cam. When I change out the head on my XR6 I'll measure up the 94DT cam for a comparison : 6 n00bus m@x1mus, Clevo120Y, matt_lamb_160 and 3 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted August 2, 2013 Yes please. i can give u lobe lift on it but nfi about rotation Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted August 2, 2013 Yes please. i can give u lobe lift on it but nfi about rotation You need a degree wheel boy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,869 Posted August 2, 2013 Whats this cam like? I mean how did you come to the decision to order it? I asked the cam bloke for a high torque cam, which would have a bit of a lope to the idle, and work well with an auto, 1800rpm stall, and 3.23 diff. That's what he made me. 1 n00bus m@x1mus reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted August 2, 2013 You need a degree wheel boy It would have to be in the head on a chain and torqued down for that too LOL I asked the cam bloke for a high torque cam, which would have a bit of a lope to the idle, and work well with an auto, 1800rpm stall, and 3.23 diff. That's what he made me. Righto, well like i said earlier there is sfa difference between their entrance level cam and there top end cams all except their speedway cam is quite timid spec wise. We will see how they go i spose. its an extra $850 to install the custom grind that camtech was quoting me on so it will have to wait until ive got the coin asside unfortunately. If i spent that now i would have none left to get it back in the hole hahaha. 1 SPArKy_Dave reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,869 Posted August 2, 2013 That cam cost me $450.00 from memory, ground by Clive Cams, using a Crow Cams billet blank (which Clive provided), which Crow have cut and turned up roughly to shape, by a mob in Turkey somewhere. edit - I got it to go in my $1,500.00 flowed, ported / port matched head, for which I FINALLY (Yay!) found the flow sheet for the other day, after misplacing it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 2, 2013 To me a cam is not big till it is over 550 lift and 250 duration @50,these heads show those sort of figures are not needed on a OHC engine which indicates a well flowing head.Still lift ='s torque but these engines seem to suffer from poor rocker design and even brake billet rockers on competition style engines. I'd love to jam a BIG cam in one and fill with methanol and compression to see what it could do cos I belive you could find NAT ASP hp easier with a OHC than a xflow based on the head as the bottom ends never really changed that much anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted August 2, 2013 Yeah dave but thats $440 for the cam, $125 for retainers, $79 for locks and $185 for springs all to suit. Then lets hope the rockers hold up lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dizzy616 183 Posted August 3, 2013 what is a good cam to put in a eb engine for gas and a bit better power? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,284 Posted March 4, 2016 thread revival.. more questions. eg.. have a current XG XR6 TICKford engine.. tired.. (noisy lifters etc) running on dual fuel Impco(will attempt to fit an impco 425 in place of the 200 in front of the throttle body, log manifold) don't really want to pull the XR6 engine apart.. not wanting extractors, figure the impco gas will be the biggest restriction.. thinking of a drop in engine that would be better(modding sump still fits the drop in rule for Egas AU engine) due to running LPG, would the AU Egas be the better choice, preferably on dual fuel, even with the log manifold. would an EL ecu be the best bet from one with tickford LPG fitted, assuming it can plug n play with a few wires added(for EL fans etc) related questions that need confirming.. 1. will it fit, mounting on XG base mounts and engine mounts(because its an XG with them already) 2. due to radiator hose diameter changing, will an EL radiator fit in XG(air con pipes might be in the way.. can move) 3. will the log manifold from the XG fit on the AU motor and be happy on premium petrol for dual fuel 4 will the AU serpentine setup on the AU pumps etc fit in the XG.. heard there is clearance issues on something, what's the fix if so 5. being auto, if using an AU auto, can the XG btr dipstick be fitted to the AU trans if its in better condition 6. will the AU auto plug n play with the XG wiring.. 7. would an EL engine be a better option for various reasons(sump for eg, what about pumps clearance) are the EL tickford Gas engines any different to a petrol one(cam,comp ratio etc) will a 3.45 diff ratio cause any issues on an EL ecu etc from something with say 3.08 etc (assuming thats what the EL came with) is it worth using the EL engine, to make use of the XG XR6 cam if its in good condition still.(rather than the AU Egas) is an XG XR6 ecu better than an EL one in any way.. would the BBM manifold be better than a log manifold when it has an Impco gas mixer as a restriction paging Thom etc.. 1 Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted March 4, 2016 THOM...Get in here. 2 Thom and deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted March 4, 2016 thread revival.. more questions. eg.. have a current XG XR6 TICKford engine.. tired.. (noisy lifters etc) running on dual fuel Impco(will attempt to fit an impco 425 in place of the 200 in front of the throttle body, log manifold) don't really want to pull the XR6 engine apart.. not wanting extractors, figure the impco gas will be the biggest restriction.. thinking of a drop in engine that would be better(modding sump still fits the drop in rule for Egas AU engine) due to running LPG, would the AU Egas be the better choice, preferably on dual fuel, even with the log manifold. would an EL ecu be the best bet from one with tickford LPG fitted, assuming it can plug n play with a few wires added(for EL fans etc) related questions that need confirming.. 1. will it fit, mounting on XG base mounts and engine mounts(because its an XG with them already) 2. due to radiator hose diameter changing, will an EL radiator fit in XG(air con pipes might be in the way.. can move) 3. will the log manifold from the XG fit on the AU motor and be happy on premium petrol for dual fuel 4 will the AU serpentine setup on the AU pumps etc fit in the XG.. heard there is clearance issues on something, what's the fix if so 5. being auto, if using an AU auto, can the XG btr dipstick be fitted to the AU trans if its in better condition 6. will the AU auto plug n play with the XG wiring.. 7. would an EL engine be a better option for various reasons(sump for eg, what about pumps clearance) are the EL tickford Gas engines any different to a petrol one(cam,comp ratio etc) will a 3.45 diff ratio cause any issues on an EL ecu etc from something with say 3.08 etc (assuming thats what the EL came with) is it worth using the EL engine, to make use of the XG XR6 cam if its in good condition still.(rather than the AU Egas) is an XG XR6 ecu better than an EL one in any way.. would the BBM manifold be better than a log manifold when it has an Impco gas mixer as a restriction paging Thom etc.. Ok where to start, the au egas engine retro fitted will need an au trans (the bellhousing at least as e series bolts to the engine but the supports/ bottom of the sump doesn't match e series bellhousing) but the engine mounts will all bolt up and fit once you modify the sump, an au trans can't be retrofitted with a dip stick the casings are different, the ac pump bracket and the tensioner off an xh need to be sourced unless you're willing to swap to a xg timing cover to use the early belt setup, the xg dizzy loom and sensors (except temp sender unless you use the xg t Stat housing which you will need if you use the log intake and the coil won't mount to the block) will all fit straight up to the au engine, you the xg xr6 cam is the best one to use out of but you can't use it with the au head (or late el hybrid engine) I wouldn't bother with a BBM or el ecu in your case (xg xr6 had a improved log manifold and the gains from a BBM are negligible and it will bolt up but you need the xg t Stat housing, heater pipes and dipstick tube) as it requires a loom change unless your good with changing ecu pinouts, 3.45 will work with your ecu as it should have had one standard and the shift points will be in the right spot, El tickford Gas engines are just a standard base speck 4.0 nothing special, (you would end up with a great lpg engine using you xr6 head on an au short, giving close to 10.1 comp and will run fine on 95/98 octane) the au auto will be fine with the XG wiring but you would need to change the speedo sender there's a couple of other things bit I'm having a brain farther at the moment 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites