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Genuine Bosch if you can get it, I don't believe there is any other quality replacement. Aftermarket ones also chew the aux shaft because the gear is machined wrong.

If you're worried about reliability I'd get the Bosch one reconditioned. Now I sound like Sparky Dave!

All I'd do is fit new cap rotor and TFI while its out and throw it in. They generally work forever. New coil too while its accessible.

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The only choice, is to get your original bosch unit reco'd, if it needs it.
All the wearing parts (Hall Effect sensor, Bronze bush, Cap, rotor etc) are still available.

To my knowledge, the OHC 4L Bosch complete dissy's are not being made anymore.

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39 minutes ago, hendrixhc said:

I assume the fuel rail on the AU BBM is different to that of the BA FAlcon?

They are yes. You might be able to get it to bolt up but the injectors are different so youd have to use whichever injectors suit the rail.

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Ive been looking for a billet fuel rail for the AU engine but it appears like they dont make such a thing.

Isn't AU same as XG? Both injectors are interchangeable.

Ive run AU injectors in the XG.

I have seen billet ones for xg utes.

Cant remember where though....

Maybe Batten Performance Tuning or TI performance. .???

Will look again...

See process west and plazmaman have kits.

You may need to buy untapped polished rail and fit correct injector ports. Seen heaps of kits around.

 

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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Is there any performance gain out of a billet rail ( thinking more fuel flow )?
Or is it simply something you can shine?
I think the latter is the case here. You'll never flow more than what the tiny injector tip is capable of. I think the reasons why people might run them is:
1) they look pretty
2) can be cut/drilled for any length, injector size or bore spacing
3) you can configure fuel inlets/outlets however you want.

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Is there any performance gain out of a billet rail ( thinking more fuel flow )?
Or is it simply something you can shine?
I don't known much about injection but as I ashom bigger objectors the bigger the fuel that why I run the holley I can ajust my air to fuel mix.

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I think the latter is the case here. You'll never flow more than what the tiny injector tip is capable of. I think the reasons why people might run them is:
1) they look pretty
2) can be cut/drilled for any length, injector size or bore spacing
3) you can configure fuel inlets/outlets however you want.

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I don't known much about injection but as I ashom bigger objectors the bigger the fuel that why I run the holley I can ajust my air to fuel mix.

Sent from my HUAWEI Y360-U03 using Tapatalk



I was thinking to flow more for bigger injectors but then again, I have no idea how restrictive or free flowing the standard rail is.

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Main reason for me is looks.

Ill be putting larger injectors in anways. Just wondering if anyone had ever seen them.

 

Idid hear the factory ones corrode internally. Dont know if its true or not.

 

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If you get air in the rail off the car they corrode REAL fast.. but mine after 22 years looked really good after all that time on the car.

Go Shiney... you know you want to...
You must.... the precious demands it.....

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I guess whichever one looks cooler... I polished up my XG one and it looks pretty sweet... bit of a mission though as its plated...
Instead of injector upgrade maybe just go xr6 regulator upgrade on either... if you dont need too much more fuel... just forces more fuel in at standard pulse width of injector.
Can also run xr6 tune/ecu.

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Ok brains trust , I recently acquired a 93 eb Fairmont. It has a failed/noisy lifter . No3 cyl is down on comp so I assume it's on cyl3 lol 

so im looking into a head swap 

the head on it is a 91 with a 91 cam 

I also have a 95T head w 94T cam 

and an ef head and cam that I haven't got the numbers off yet . 

From what I've read the std ef head flows the most and the 91 head is junk . 

What head and cam combo should I use to get the best bang ?? 

Also , how much can be machined off these heads to get comp up ?? 

Not much from the looks of the intake valve seat lol 

And ! What head gasket ?   Is the mls thinner than the composite? 

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Ok brains trust , I recently acquired a 93 eb Fairmont. It has a failed/noisy lifter . No3 cyl is down on comp so I assume it's on cyl3 lol 
so im looking into a head swap 
the head on it is a 91 with a 91 cam 
I also have a 95T head w 94T cam 
and an ef head and cam that I haven't got the numbers off yet . 
From what I've read the std ef head flows the most and the 91 head is junk . 
What head and cam combo should I use to get the best bang ?? 
Also , how much can be machined off these heads to get comp up ?? 
Not much from the looks of the intake valve seat lol 
And ! What head gasket ?   Is the mls thinner than the composite? 
Out of the parts you have personally I would run the t head with the 91da cam, a MLS is thinner than the e series gasket (dont forget to get new bolts) if its only a failed lash adjuster why not just replace them? Unless you're suspecting it's also a head gasket failure. as far as decking the head goes there are a couple of square bosses cast into the underside of the head that are essentially your minimum height (I don't know how deep it is compared to stock because I've never started with a stock un machined head before

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If you can get your hands on an EA cam, that's the best/cheapest upgrade, right Thom?

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Ea-ed were usually the same cam, but not always, 91dt is the part number to look for as far as camshafts

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91 cam in the T head it is then . 

Thinking about changing the head vs just the last adjuster is that I have the parts and it's got 250+kms and is really slow lol 

more comp is always good 

as far as manifolds . Being an eb I don't have bbm control , would it be worth fitting the bbm and the actuator just to manifold vacuum ? 

I read somewhere that an el ecu can be retrofitted without too much drama ? 

Do xr6 ecu have different tune ? 

 

 

Edit . Turns out the noisy lifter was no6 intake . Swaped it out and all good . 

But still don't explain 60psi down on no3 cyl lol 

Edited by Grimmy

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Being an eb I don't have bbm control , would it be worth fitting the bbm and the actuator just to manifold vacuum ? 
I read somewhere that an el ecu can be retrofitted without too much drama ? 
Do xr6 ecu have different tune ? 
 



When I first setup my ute with a bbm I used an rpm frequency switch from jaycar and used the solenoid from an ef to switch the intake runners at 3800rpm, (I played around with the switching rpm but 3800 gave the best results) the difference in power between the xh tune and the el xr6 tune was negligible (xr6 does have a different tune but you have to use an xr6 fuel pressure reg as they run a higher pressure than standard 4.0 and the tune will be out of whack if you don't). I never changed the ecu in my car but I did play around with j3 chips and a moates quarterhorse back in the day, I eventually setup one of the unused pins in my wiring loom (I believe it was one of the auto trans pins) to control the bbm from the factory ecu (although it was an xh ecu with a modified el xr6 tune in it). You don't want to hook up the bbm just to vacuum without any control as it makes the car do weird things and just run funny in general

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Good info 👍🏻 

Ill have a squiz at the j3chips again to refresh the memory . 

How do you go about tuning the auto ? 

If I chucked diff gears in would it upset it much ? 

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Good info  
Ill have a squiz at the j3chips again to refresh the memory . 
How do you go about tuning the auto ? 
If I chucked diff gears in would it upset it much ? 
As far as the auto goes an electronic shift kit works pretty well, you can put a high stall in them, shiftkits Australia can supply them https://www.shiftkits.com.au or with some thread mining on ford forums there is a couple of DIY guides on how to build your own shift kit for a btr (if you put a variable resistor (trim pot) you can even adjust how hard the shift kit works). You can chuck diff gears in it but don't change the speedo gear in the auto as they rely on vehicle speed for gear change points rather than rpm and changing the gear in the transducer will change the rpm gear changes occur, you will have to get a speedo corrector to make your speedo right without affecting your shift points

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OK got a new one for ya's...

 

Inherited mum's EL wagon, drives ok but feels lacking, at times you have to go past 1/2 throttle to get through a "hole" in the throttle delivery. Shifts well, but around town it guzzles the juice something chronic, like more than 20L to the 100. Highway around 13.

 

It also cuts out occasionally, sometimes at the lights, sometimes momentarily while driving along. Yesterday it really let me down by not starting at all, and clutching at straws, I wiggled the TFI module and tried it again, it started and ran all the way home (1 hour's drive). It has played up only once today.

 

First question: could these two problems be related? I have read that the TFI module uses coil dwell time controlled by the computer to vary timing, so that in the event of a bad signal either on the SP-IN or SP-OUT circuits, the dizzy will still fire at base timing. Does the TFI rely on an earth through the mounting screws, as does the old Bosch modules? If so, this could be the cause of it cutting out.

 

I checked TPS voltage at idle, and it was sitting at 0.75 volts, and I read that it should be 0.95-1.05 volts. Without elongated screw holes to adjust it, I resorted to drilling out the crush sleeves and enlarging the holes to allow some rotation. I got to 1 volt at idle, watched the multi meter go up gradually as I opened the throttle without any dead spots.

 

Driving, seemed slightly better at part throttle, but consumption is still way high in my opinion. My old EF, before converting to manual, could get consistent 11.5s around town, below 10 on a trip.

 

I have also:

* Adjusted timing to what feels ideal (no I didn't jump the terminals on the diagnostic plug)

* Swapped plugs

* Checked coolant temp sender ohms at operating temp (OK)

* Changed thermostat

* Disconnected battery for ECU re-learn

* Adjusted base idle with ISC unplugged

* Cleaned throttle body/ISC/manifold

* Changed oxygen sensors. I had a brand new VZ Commodore one that was 4-wire (as opposed to Ford 3) so I just matched the colours and grounded the extra grey one. Seemed to make no difference.

 

If I go replacing the TFI, could that improve the fuel economy much, or could the TPS be at fault as well? One thing that goes against the TPS being at fault is that the box shifts fine, both in power and economy modes. If it was dodgy, I'd be getting funny shifts, etc am I right?

 

Or is the ECU possibly getting an intermittently goofy signal outside of what it expects, so it ignores the TPS input when it happens and just refers to backup tables?

 

I'm about to be driving it to work, so doing 450 km a week will make a big difference to what's left in my wallet.... if I can get the thirst down to where it should be.

 

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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1.

Get a proper O2 sensor - EF/EL ran NTK's from factory.

The aftermarket equivalent NTK part no. is OZA729-D2

They cost around $60.

 

2. you can't see TPS dead spots properly, without an ocilloscope.

3. check the Broadband Manifold vacuum actuator functions properly.

4. A failing hall effect sensor INSIDE the dizzy, often causes oddball running at certain RPM/re-starting issues.

 

If it were my car, I would start with two things -

a. get a proper O2 sensor, and hope you haven't burnt out the driver in the ECU.

b. new hall effect sensor for the dizzy (Bosch distributors/parts only)

 

Those two, should be a good start.

 

E-series wagons have a slightly lower diff ratio than the sedans (3.23 vs 3.08)

Speaking from experience -

Around town auto wagon fuel economy should be 12-15L/100km

Highway = 8-10L/100km

The sedans, are slightly more fuel efficient, but not by much.

 

edit -

the above figure are for OHC six.

My EL V8 wagon, gets 15-17L/100km city, and 10-11L/100km highway.

I think it needs O2 sensors though...

 

second edit -

EF/EL OHC's, run zero degrees BTDC at idle (in diagnostic mode)


If you adjust the dizzy with the vehicle running, but not in diagnostic mode, I'm

pretty sure it screws with the ECU - which attempts to pull the timing back, via the SPOUT wire.

 

 

 

 

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