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XF EDDIE

86 XF Falcon Ute not starting

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22 hours ago, deankxf said:

 

My failsafe trick I invented? (i've never seen a video of it or mention of it) 
is to get fish tank bubbler hose or clear hose from bunnings etc (not sure what it's used for, but i'd call it one man brake bleeding hose)

 

basically get s bit of rubber hose that fits over the bleed nipple and also the clear hose fits in..
make sure the brake reservoir doesn't get too low in the process, but basically crack the bleed screw and gently push the brake pedal down and slowly up and watch the air bubble go the full length of the hose and even back to the master cyl if you have a long enough length (2meters is enough to watch the bubble/s until there's no more from the drivers seat. 

 

 

I suppose that would have a similar kind of deal to the standard one man bleeder (with substantially less fucking about). There isn't a store that stocks that stuff where I live otherwise I would give that a try. My idea was to modify the a spare reservoir cap and install an air fitting into it, then just pressurise the reservoir to a few psi and just crack the lines (kinda like a reverse vaccum bleeder) I'll give it a try tonight and get back to you with the results

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1 hour ago, XF EDDIE said:

I suppose that would have a similar kind of deal to the standard one man bleeder (with substantially less fucking about). There isn't a store that stocks that stuff where I live otherwise I would give that a try. My idea was to modify the a spare reservoir cap and install an air fitting into it, then just pressurise the reservoir to a few psi and just crack the lines (kinda like a reverse vaccum bleeder) I'll give it a try tonight and get back to you with the results

My Dad did this back 30 years or so ago, it works. 
gravity bleeding can also work, but if you are having issues, then it's time to try different ways.

 

i recently heard of using a syringe to bleed from the bottom up (on a clutch slave cyl) which would have fixed the issue on My van's air lock under the dash . (i ended up putting a radiator hose on the filler cap and blowing with My mouth over it.

 

 

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6 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

Well after taking it for a drive its apparent that the cams disintegrating again so Ive organized another engine to swap in while I rebuild this one. So if anyone has any links to a good bearing kit/gasket kit for the old 250 it would be much appreciated. I want to do a full overhaul on it as when I changed the cam the first time the cam bearings looked cooked. Also would driving it around as it is do any damage to it that wouldnt be fixed via a rebuild?

 

cam metal is pretty hard, if it gets anywhere it will do damage. 

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Well the Idea sorta worked. It didn't just flow out when I cracked the bleeder like I hoped but it definitely helped get the air bubble out of the system when pumping the brake (even after adding the fluid back in it was down a quarter from what it was). The setup was pretty crappy with it leaking air from everywhere but with some more work this could make life that bit easier. Still probably easier to just buy a vacuum bleeder!

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1 minute ago, deankxf said:

 

cam metal is pretty hard, if it gets anywhere it will do damage. 

Ahh so it would be best to get it fixed sooner rather than later. Would it just mess up the bearings and oil pump or will it scrag the journals as well?

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19 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Well the Idea sorta worked. It didn't just flow out when I cracked the bleeder like I hoped but it definitely helped get the air bubble out of the system when pumping the brake (even after adding the fluid back in it was down a quarter from what it was). The setup was pretty crappy with it leaking air from everywhere but with some more work this could make life that bit easier. Still probably easier to just buy a vacuum bleeder!

 

is the hole in the bleeder blocked? 
the hoses can fail and get blockages also. 
if it works, it works, but if the hoses are sus, i'd change them or at least put them on a list when the budget allows

 

16 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Ahh so it would be best to get it fixed sooner rather than later. Would it just mess up the bearings and oil pump or will it scrag the journals as well?

 

from my understanding, the oil filter should save the crank etc, but the oil pump will be sucking all this junk up unfiltered (just the screen) 

not sure of anything else,  but i'd personally stick another engine in and not even bother rebuilding the other. (assuming the replacement is any good)

 

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13 minutes ago, deankxf said:

 

is the hole in the bleeder blocked? 
the hoses can fail and get blockages also. 
if it works, it works, but if the hoses are sus, i'd change them or at least put them on a list when the budget allows

 

I did a half assed rebuild on both the rear slaves so I know they are clear of debris and the hoses seemed okay but they will be getting changed along with all the other rubber components as time goes on

13 minutes ago, deankxf said:

 

from my understanding, the oil filter should save the crank etc, but the oil pump will be sucking all this junk up unfiltered (just the screen) 

not sure of anything else,  but i'd personally stick another engine in and not even bother rebuilding the other. (assuming the replacement is any good)

 

That's probably gonna be the go for the time being as I gotta get my fg out the door first. I get that the oil pump will be cooked but if the journals aren't gonna be too affected then I'll just bump the idle up and swap it next weekend. I do wanna do rebuild the original more of an exercise in engine work than for any practical purpose although if the bores and bearings aren't too bad I'll probably just clean all the metal out of the engine and just do a cam swap and reseal. The one going in has unknown k's but he said it was running sweet before he swapped it for a V8 and it comes with some extractors already bolted on. 

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31 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

 

i do wonder if any of these are particularly sought after for exporting overseas.. 

 

issues i have with this one, 

where's the before photos? was it rusty? the odometer cogs stuff up, was it actually broken for 20yrs and stuck on 70,000kms still?

can't see the trim on the seat for wear, (seat cover)
can't see the floor mat for wear marks/holes (drop in floor mat pictured)
can't see the rear van floor for dents (under carpet), had it hauled bricks etc? 
pretty sure it's missing the wind deflecting panels for the radiator sides, was it in a crash? 

the bonnet cable isn't run the correct path, the radiator top rubber cover isn't fitted

if you look at the door striker it's got a wear gouge in it that makes the suspected hinge area of the doors look like they must be cracked. (not consistent with 70,000kms also)

 

$30,000 in receipts? can't see it. 

@SPArKy_Dave could pick even more holes in the ad for "Period original restoration right down to the shade of tint" (they never had tint) 

 

476185349_644848564792320_14240414242039

 

 

 

476319080_899433605435017_81791336331193

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20 minutes ago, deankxf said:

 

i do wonder if any of these are particularly sought after for exporting overseas.. 

 

issues i have with this one, 

where's the before photos? was it rusty? the odometer cogs stuff up, was it actually broken for 20yrs and stuck on 70,000kms still?

can't see the trim on the seat for wear, (seat cover)
can't see the floor mat for wear marks/holes (drop in floor mat pictured)
can't see the rear van floor for dents (under carpet), had it hauled bricks etc? 
pretty sure it's missing the wind deflecting panels for the radiator sides, was it in a crash? 

the bonnet cable isn't run the correct path, the radiator top rubber cover isn't fitted

if you look at the door striker it's got a wear gouge in it that makes the suspected hinge area of the doors look like they must be cracked. (not consistent with 70,000kms also)

 

$30,000 in receipts? can't see it. 

@SPArKy_Dave could pick even more holes in the ad for "Period original restoration right down to the shade of tint" (they never had tint) 

 

476185349_644848564792320_14240414242039

 

 

 

476319080_899433605435017_81791336331193

Yeah even if it is what hes describing its still not worth the price in my eyes with it being a base model xf. Still if it truly was cared for all its life why would you repaint it? 

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7 hours ago, deankxf said:


pretty sure it's missing the wind deflecting panels for the radiator sides, was it in a crash? 

the bonnet cable isn't run the correct path, the radiator top rubber cover isn't fitted

if you look at the door striker it's got a wear gouge in it that makes the suspected hinge area of the doors look like they must be cracked. (not consistent with 70,000kms also)

 

@SPArKy_Dave could pick even more holes in the ad

 

 

From memory, that's been for sale for a few yrs now

Earlier factory NON aircon XF's, didn't get the deflectors, or that rubber strip

plus smaller radiator, and top metal fan shroud

 

I think later on, all XF's got the side deflector plastics and bigger radiator,

but still no rubber strip.

(aka, my 92' XF ute for ref, which has aftermarket aircon)

 

I see replacement door rubber seals fitted, non original spark plug leads,

bonnet strut fitted upside down, wrong battery cables,

along with painted over windscreen wiper bolt heads,

and painted over spring clamps for the windscreen washer jet hose.

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A bit off topic but I'm having a problem putting an s pac dash in the XF. When the car is off the volt gauge is normal but when I start it up it climbs all the way up untill only the red segment is blinking, I am having the same problem with the ghia dash. The alternator lamp is working as it should and it tests at 13.3v with a multimeter so it seems like gauge issue.

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Well the schedule has been moved forward as the oil pressure light started coming on as I was driving, time to find out if the marketplace motor is any good!

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5 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

Well the schedule has been moved forward as the oil pressure light started coming on as I was driving, time to find out if the marketplace motor is any good!

 

don't trust the S pack cluster for flashing oil pressure unless it has been tested with a separate gauge, there's a few threads on here now on how to fix that cluster flashing issue particularly on S pack clusters, but the ghia ones have also done it due to cracked solder joints on the board

 

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8 hours ago, deankxf said:

 

don't trust the S pack cluster for flashing oil pressure unless it has been tested with a separate gauge, there's a few threads on here now on how to fix that cluster flashing issue particularly on S pack clusters, but the ghia ones have also done it due to cracked solder joints on the board

 

I don't have the spac sender in yet but the oil pressure light is glowing dimly while I'm driving although I'm verifying it with a mechanical gauge before worrying about it. I'll probably ditch the spac cluster as that volt gauge issue is pissing me off

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10 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

I don't have the spac sender in yet but the oil pressure light is glowing dimly while I'm driving although I'm verifying it with a mechanical gauge before worrying about it. I'll probably ditch the spac cluster as that volt gauge issue is pissing me off

 

the information on the issue for the cluster might start on the previous page to this
it was a common issue even 20yrs ago for the S pack clusters,  i bought an XF with "low oil pressure" cheap once and the issue was just the cluster. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, deankxf said:

 

the information on the issue for the cluster might start on the previous page to this
it was a common issue even 20yrs ago for the S pack clusters,  i bought an XF with "low oil pressure" cheap once and the issue was just the cluster. 

 

 

I already tore the dash apart and cleaned up the shitty joints and cross checked it with my ghia dash so I dont thing thats the issue but the voltage is testing good at the battery so I cant see what gives.

 

Heres the video of the issue on the ghia cluster

 

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47 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

I already tore the dash apart and cleaned up the shitty joints and cross checked it with my ghia dash so I dont thing thats the issue but the voltage is testing good at the battery so I cant see what gives.

 

Heres the video of the issue on the ghia cluster

 

 

I'd be checking battery wires and the fusible link near the battery I guess. Bad connections possibly

 

Those ghia/fairlane clusters had issues with cracked solder joints also at times. I've fixed a few in the past but don't recall that flashing issue for battery before 

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Checked the links and found no voltage drop but at the alternator I was getting 14v. This dosent seem high enough to set off the cluster but Ill check the voltages at the cluster to see if anything is funky there(if anyone has a pinout it would be much appreciated) but if not Ill just throw another regulator at it and see if it fixes it.

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Highest voltage at the dashboard was 13.5v so that doesnt seem to be the problem. Is there some kind of sense wire Im missing from my base model?

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54 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Highest voltage at the dashboard was 13.5v so that doesnt seem to be the problem. Is there some kind of sense wire Im missing from my base model?

nah they've just plugged in and worked for Me on base models other than needing the oil sender.
 

i can't think of anything at the moment that would cause it. 

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3 hours ago, deankxf said:

nah they've just plugged in and worked for Me on base models other than needing the oil sender.
 

i can't think of anything at the moment that would cause it. 

Ill just throw a new regulator in when I get home and just see what happens.

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After a slight mishap with a concrete drain I've fucked up a rim with brand new tyre and my alignment so after crab walking it home I'm firing up the lemonade stand and Ill be rebuilding the front end and trying to do a diy alignment. Just one of those days

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