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Found 5 results

  1. Crebe

    Xr Tunnel

    Can anyone tell me if they hace pit a 4 spd auto in an xr 1966. I have one in my ute and think it maybe at the wrong agle for the box to tailshaft. Its possible someone couldnt get it up into the tunnel enough. Do xr xt xw xy have different tunnel sizes as in bigger than xr?
  2. so first off why would you do a t5 conversion? for most people its going to be fuel economy and lower RPM cruising and are not likely to be giving this thing a hard time so a t5 should do the job fine, so why convert a single rail bellhousing and not buy a rod shop bellhousing? well last i looked it was going to cost me almost $900 to my door and that's a lot of fuel money my friends. So if your looking to do this conversation you've probably already done some research but if not, you must use a 6 cylinder t5 from an xf or whenever they started using them to an el Falcon, au and onwards will need custom tail shaft and shifter won't line up, can't used v8 bellhousing or gearbox it would be way too much trouble, 6 cylinder t5 is almost identical to the single rail. This is to document my experience with converting from a single rail with a bellhousing that has only been drilled for single rail in an XC falcon with an almost stock cleveland with an EB diff running 3.27 gears currently sitting on about 2800rpm at 100kmph using about 20.5l/per 100km Ok let's get into it, after you've got your bellhousing/gearbox out first thing you'll need to do to your t5 is turn down the input bearing housing about 1.6mm so it'll fit in the hole, if you don't have access to a lathe a machine shop will make very light work of it and won't cost much at all to get done. i had an empty case to help me work out how to go about it. Then that's done fit it back to the gearbox and after you've got straight as you can you can start working out where your going to tap your new holes, the two top t5 mounting holes can be used so do them first use a punch to mark the holes (transfer punch would make this easy) and then drill and tap, I used 12x1.75 bolts that come with my T5. Bolt the gearbox back onto the bellhousing and now you can workout the two bottom mounts, as you can see the bottom t5 mount's are lower then the face of the bellhousing so what I did for the right side is make a mark just above the t5 hole, drilled and tapped it then bolt the gearbox back on and center punched the case from the inside of the bellhousing and then drilled the t5 case, as for the bottom left there is no meat in the bellhousing casting inline with the t5 case so I tapped a hole just beside the case and used a clamp style mount on this side that consists of a spacer that falls just short of the thickness of the case and another plate that overlaps the case making it clamp down when tightened against it, this could also be used on the other side if you don't want to drill the case. So this should have us sorted for mounting the box to the bellhousing now we'll move onto the cross member, measuring from the face of the box there is about 43mm difference between the two so I used part of the EB cross member and welded it to the back of the cross member about 45mm back (you could use a bit of plate or that ever will pick up the mount,plenty of adjustment no need for it to be perfect just needs to be centre) thinking it would be a great idea to use the square hole but it ended up making it very hard to bolt them together it kinda got stuck between the gearbox and the exhaust headers and I couldn't get it low enough due to the exhaust to get the gearbox mount bolt in the hole. so I think if this hole was slotted it would go much easier. So getting the gearbox in the car I bolted the bellhousing on to the engine and made a few attempts to slide the gearbox on, what I ended up doing is cutting the shifter hole in the floor all the way to the back of the hump mine had about an inch of over hang and that had to go so the shifter housing could get high enough, I also found I couldn't have the shifter Bolted to the gearbox and the hole in my shifter hump is too small to out it through the top so I hung it in the hole with a screwdriver and bolted it on the gearbox after it was in the car. And as I said I struggled with getting the cross member on, I almost dropped one of the headers but ended up getting there. So everything else goes on just like the single rail,. The internet said to fill it with a half and half mix of vmx80 and dex3 ATF and it seems to shift nice, I made a gear stick with the same bend and thread as the single rail and used the knob to make it look like nothing's been changed. Final thoughts are, first gear is a bit short but not the end of the world gets off the line nicely, it doesn't have as positive feel when shifting but still alright, down shifts much nicer than the single rail, sits on about 2200rpm at 100 in 5th. Will have some fuel economy numbers after a few hundred k's. Hopefully this helps I've probably missed something but anyway I did my best. rotio's , i'm told the EL box is the best one to get as its a 'world class' and its a bit stronger. EA T5 1st: 3.50:1 2nd: 2.14:1 3rd: 1.39:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.78:1 EB2-EL T5 (6 cyl) 1st: 3.25:1 2nd: 1.99:1 3rd: 1.29:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.72:1
  3. tgolds1

    Au engine conversion into ZK

    Hi all, has anyone got a link or info on doing a 4l engine conversion into zk Fairlane? my searches are coming up with nothing. I have seen plenty of pictures of people doing them and just want to see if there is a thread going that has the info available. I pretty much only need help with the wiring side of things. how much of the au loom do I need to keep and how is it spliced into the zk. I have the engine sitting in the bay as we speak but the wiring side of things has me beat. The ZK is efi so some of it may be useful, i'm not sure. any help would be appreciated. Cheers
  4. Sweet Cream

    XF Fan and pulley

    Hi everyone, Pulled my xc off the road to do a few maintenance things and also replaced the water pump. Mine has aircon and was running a three belt v-belt pulley with a solid aluminium spacer against the fan. I pulled the old one off and put it in the trash box, but didn't throw it out. I guess out of sight, out of mind. I have to have two manuals for the xc, one for the body and running gear and the other for the xf engine so when I ordered a new xf water pump I used the manual. When the pump arrived I checked it off against the xf manual. All correct. Now comes a lesson in tardiness - I fitted the new pump and forgot to physically check the new one against the old one before I did. Wouldn't you know it, the pulley fittings are different and my fan won't fit. Center hole in my fan is far too small and bolt holes closer together. I assume that the mechanic who put my engine together and into the xc must have used an xc water pump which has a small hole in the aluminium spacer and fan. The standard xf has a large threaded shaft. The question is, would there be any problems with getting an xf fan and bits from somewhere and lining everything up with the aircon, alternator and crank pulleys? or should I just simplify it by ordering another xc water pump with the holes that will match my own fan and spacer? Any advice muchly appreciated. Heath
  5. Hi Guys, Replacing the T5 with a C4 in my XF sedan. Can anyone tell me if I need an auto pedal box or whether I can get a away with removing the clutch pedal and putting an auto brake pedal in as I have heard replacing the whole pedal box isn't easy... Also, will I need a new gearbox cross member? Or can the manual cross member be used on the auto with a few easy mods? Thanks in advance .
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