deano551

Yeah stay away from Suzuki Super crap years ago i got ball joints from these guys they were absolute rubbish they were all flogged out within 10 thousand kays replaced them all with wasp not a problem since

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Rob Mills (not the singer) from NRAP (ebay ID)  (aka the old north Ringwood auto parts store) but now located in Nutfield vic,  carries the WASP branded stuff along with other reputable brands (roadsafe etc), and is excellent to deal with either direct or via ebay, prices are good,  always helpful, super quick postage,  so yeah no need to deal with crap products/suppliers

Hahaha I think we’ve been hanging around the forums too long


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coils have thousands of windings inside that are separated by a very thin insulation that can break down both over time and many heat cycles. All it may take is a slight movement internally due to expansion from heat and the windings short out on each other, reducing output voltage or completely dying. Also there can be a break in said windings that might touch when cold but again when the whole thing is hot, open up and create an open circuit.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Ok I promised a proper review so here goes:
 
It's been nearly 2 weeks since the install, and I've pretty much worked out its good and bad points.
 
• it's unbeatable bang-for-buck. I landed it here for a shade under $350 AUD. They sell locally (new, not refurbished like mine) starting at $550.
 
• the low end torque is amazing. I thought my annular Holleys were good but this is like fuel injection (no exaggeration). Driving around town, there's absolutely no need to hit the secondaries, the performance is enough at 1/3 throttle.
 
• although they say that refurbs are returned units that are checked and cleaned, mine showed no signs of previous installation (no marks around the stud holes).
 
• installation was piss-easy with exception to some issues that are peculiar to my setup, ie non-standard throttle cable and spread bore adaptor (outlined above in previous post). It fired up and idled by itself with very minor tweaks, just like they said it would.
 
• the secondaries open with a glorious howl just like on an Edelbrock or Quadrajet, and traction is now an issue that wasn't there before
 
• has a single fuel inlet so no dicking around with t-pieces and clamps, custom fuel bars, etc.
 
• Its float bowls are sealed so no longer has that old car aura of fuel smell after you park it. Also the composite body keeps temps down so much less or no percolation from heat soak.
 
• comes with lots of bits to cater for different setups: 3/8", 5/16" and SAE flare fuel fittings, 4x mount studs and nuts, 2 different ball ends or a clevis pin for the throttle cable, air cleaner stud, metal intermediate plate and 2 gaskets... Oh and 2 go-fast stickers
 
Ok now for the few issues that I've had:
 
• the primary throttle is a bit tight and hangs up a tad, but only when the engine's running. I suspect it's an alignment issue that will probably go away as it all beds in. I fitted an extra return spring that's made the accelerator a bit heavy but it works fine.
 
• The secondary air flap was catching on the housing, making it a bit clunky in operation. I noticed the screws that hold it to the shaft were a bit off from the holes, so I loosened them and tweaked the flap to open and close without catching. I suspect this is a new carby that failed QC due to these issues but I really don't mind, it's not an issue for me.
 
• the linkages are all held on with impossibly small circlips. They are so small that you can't feel them on your fingers when removing/replacing. Very scary if you lose one and wonder if it fell down the carby, etc. I made the mistake of changing the pump stroke in the dark on the side of the road and had all sorts of trouble putting it back on. I plan on removing them all and installing wire pin clips that you can at least change without tweezers. Changing rods requires removing the choke linkage right over the top of the carby with one of these clips needing removal. Again, scary.
 
• Changing jets (primary or secondary) involves stripping the carby apart completely. Not so bad if only your primaries need tweaking as there is enough of a selection of rods to tune them without needing to swap jets. Also primary jets are specific to this carby only. Secondaries are standard Holley jets.
 
• if a carby is sold ready to run out of the box, you can guarantee that it's going to be rich, which this one is. Stock rods are 60/52, jets are 78. Rods and jets are in increments of 0.002". On reading other reviews, I think I might go either 2 sizes leaner (bigger) in rods to 64/56, or one rod size up (62/54) and one jet down (76). Rods are about $10US a pair, jets $5.
 
• the secondaries had a pretty bad bog when I first drove it. A 1/2" spanner and a flat screwy is used to adjust the tension in the spring, and you go 1/4 of a turn each time to increase the opening tension. They reckon don't go more than 1 turn tighter than factory but I went 1-1/2 and it's mostly gone now. Even at that, the secondaries still feel a bit lean for my engine, might need a bigger jet.
 
• fuel consumption is pretty shit so far, which goes with being way rich. I also do a lot of short, cold runs which knocks the economy around.
 
Anyway I'll be doing more long country runs in the near future and after I tune the primaries I'll update any progress made.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bitches
 

 
Oh 4011 Holley... You've served me well but sadly now it's time to be put out to pasture.
 

 
You can see the unusual goggle-shaped secondaries:
 

 
Square vs spreadbore gasket
 

 

 
As you can see, the siamesed secondary valve, while very cool, can be a bit of a headache when trying to match the carby to a spread/square adaptor. The centre divider has an abrupt face that's smack in the middle of the flow so needs to be contoured with a die grinder to transition smoothly to the spreadbore manifold:
 

 
Smoothed and knife-edged:
 

 

 
A bit hard to see but looking straight down the open throttle into the plenum there's the contoured divider. If anyone is thinking of getting this carby, this is the sort of thing you might have to do to get it right on a split manifold, square or spread bore. Open plenums are no dramas.
 

Cheers rob looking forward to some more tuning as theres a lot of improvement to go
 
 
Thanks Ando, definitely keen to hear some thoughts on this. Might take the car out tonight its been a couple of weeks and need to take a break from this screen

I'll help ya dial it in Michael, when we doing a cruise again?
 
Weren't you going to throw an alloy head on it? You can take some ccs out of the chamber pretty easily on them, and being alloy will handle an extra point in comp

Cheers Greg mate keen for a cruise whenever we gotta get the Nsw section happening. And yep ended up getting that motor with the alloy head, got a C1A head now that's next on the list once the MSD is in. ATM the head is sitting on the beach just waiting!
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was going to say washer fluid is too old

I find turning the radio up helps.

Cheers Ando, you're right mate I've had numerous leaks with the tin one, even now with the rubber gasket. I have redone it with a bit of Polymar as I've heard good things but not going to hold my breath if its a design flaw. I just love the original look thats all. Anyway when it comes time to cross that bridge ill have some info handy. 

Just your crossy telling you it loves you
 
If you find a way to fix it let me know... mine does the same.

Also they look cool and now I can talk lots of shit about having coilovers in my XD in the maccas carpark at 1am.
 
Better go find some drift stitching decals...

What kind of p plater are you?