2redrovers

Had that happen in the rangie but the door wouldn't open. Actuator had shat itself and basically stuck the child lock halfway between open and closed. I had to dismantle (destroy) the mechanism from inside the closed door after getting the trim off. They're essentially a ford part as well.

 

 

Thom's thread is the business when it comes to those motors. Might even find the answer to your first question in there somewhere too.

Glad it seems to be getting somewhere finally

 
Yeah Roger that...
A friend does high quality body restoration like yourself and has purchased rust repair sections from RS and ended up making his own due to not lining up well enough...
 
P.S. I really liked the metal torana bolt on flares you made a while back!

Yeah I prefer not to use most of the resto parts available, just no quality control involved. The kombi parts I got were good but I made him buy the specific brand which is oem quality.

Those flares just about killed me to make, cost me a fortune in time on them and in the end I heard nothing back whatsoever so I have no idea how close they were for actual fit on the car. One can only assume they were either acceptable or considered trash by the installer.... Who knows...

 
Thanks 2redrovers
Based on this pic posted by Dean, is the reason I asked the question in the first place, and wondered if their tie-rods are solid or hollow like in the pic?

I have only used repair panels supplied for jobs and some trim bits. I have no experience with hardware parts. There's a raft of places that RS and resto country gets their stuff from too, so it's hard to say that one retailers parts are good or bad. Once it was suggested that resto country took a bit of care picking out the better stock to sell but i have no knowledge if that's still a thing. Panels I got tended to be slightly better but it could have been the luck of the draw.

Does anyone have an answer to my above question?

They get some of their stock from rare spares suppliers but not sure on the mechanical parts.

I got ya covered

Steering wobbles at 80-100k.... Sounds familiar. I've just had the front upper/lower control arms, sway bar bushes, links and brakes/rotors all round plus alignment, so here's hoping I've solved my issues. Although I think I'll be asking them to reassess the alignment as it wants to pull left if you let go of the wheel now. Might just be a little tight from new stuff but might be not quite right either. Brakes feel better and no thumps going over bumps and gutters now, but didn't get to do over 80 on the way home in traffic so not sure yet.

Man I hope you get yours sorted. Been forever and the poor thing still doesn't run at 100%. I know how frustrating that is.

Images and videos need to be hosted elsewhere and linked into your posts to show here. This is the same policy for everyone and has been from the beginning. It keeps our footprint down and therefore the costs involved in hosting the forum to a minimum.

For mobile use, the tapatalk app is the easiest way to upload photos. I use an old version of the app which has no daily limits on posting etc, downside is I get no notifications but that doesn't matter much to me. For video, use YouTube to upload then post the link in your thread to share. You can also use other sites like imgur to host photos. There is a thread showing how to do this on the forum (look at Dean's signature for link)

We haven't had any made for a long time. If you are lucky, SPArKy_Dave might have one left but I think they might have gone a while back.

If it's easy enough to set up, then I'd say the three generations in their own sections would make searching/finding easier. There could be a rolling Q&A thread for people to use then copy paste into the relevant pages if desired.

Worth all the effort I'd say (by which I mean everything)

Bit of nice aluminium for a heat shield maybe?

If it's "just" touching when you close it, then it's probably getting more than a touch while running. The vibration would crack the filler over time. Many ways to join a scoop, some better than others.

You haven't taken out the upright portion of the ribs so there would still be some strength there, maybe a bit reduced on the one side. Just go round and deburr the edges so you don't run the risk of slicing yourself open later. If it shows any signs of fatigue down the road, just add a plate across the rear section so it can't bend in the middle.

I'd be inclined to cut and splice them to alter the angle they meet the rear edge. So you get the wider space between them but still have solid support. I don't know if that's an option within your skill set, it's just how I'd go about the problem.

For more peace of mind about whether you sealed the holes, get something like penetrol or similar wicking agent. Squirt a bit around all the clips, repeat a couple of times over a couple of weeks and it should get a good barrier layer in there to help prevent (or at least dramatically slow) any corrosion.

Yeah.. What he said..

There is a handful of parts made by rare spares that are near correct, I can't say if those particular sills are one of them. Generally speaking they will be slightly thinner than the original steel and not as crisp in the folds. I've used quite a few RS panels and none have been spot on, some were downright atrocious.

One of the good names would be patch maker but I'm not sure if they do that particular section.

Bank on the inner sill being rotten too if the outside is rusted. Make sure the car is well supported on good jack stands before you start cutting, so the body doesn't sag when you take out the strength. Check the base of the windscreen (A pillar area, above the door hinges, under the guards ) to see there is any signs of rust from trapped water. I did an xy that had rotted a path from the windscreen down through the pillar and out the bottom of the sill due to poor water drainage. It took quite a bit of time and multiple sections to repair everything.

Alternatively look at plastic/rubber mud flaps to use as a shield.

 
fixed now. 

Oooooh shiny bits.... Obviously the app was just dazzled by the esky's brilliance and couldn't see where it was supposed to upload the pics to

Hmm not sure why pic’s didn’t work. Ill fix tomorrow 

Yeah that's odd. When I went to click on one, it started to go to imgur but before it loaded an image it "crashed" back to the Tapatalk app.

thats a weird one,note large single compliance plate that means its a 72 or xa style car,later xa in 73 started with the 2 smaller compliance plates,also orange rocker covers on a 351 is fuel saver version of the 351,very rare,most where in xb era.not sure about the grills,i would just put the correct one on,and to me it looks like a zf model car with zg bits ?

The ZF grille on the floor is the one he wants to fit, so I guess he's going for originality too. Interesting about the plate, Greg and I were guessing and assumed it had two but one was covered under the black insulation bit. I'm not familiar with these as I've never had to work on them before.

Looks like he's found a set of ZF buckets on ebay. We just held these brackets up for comparison and they look like the right ones (shorter than the ones he has here).

They seem to run different buckets if for no other reason than the bolt holes don't match up. Good to know what letters it is though