2redrovers

No worries mate

To learn the welding side I'd consider getting a junk gearbox case of the same/similar type and slice it up then attempt to join it back together. I don't imagine it will want to weld nicely and it will be vastly different to practice on scrap sheets. For bolt on idea, if you want any help just let me know.

Is there a possible way to do it without jumping into tig welding alloy, especially if you don't already have the gear? Replicate the section of housing in steel and sell an adapter kit for a near bolt on conversion. If it could be done you'd open up a mail order side to it. I've got half an idea of what it could be but I might be way off the mark.

Depends how paranoid you are and if you really want to cut Ol' Murphy off at the pass, a spare alternator and starter if it's not manual. If you have them on hand I think I'd take them to make sure you don't need them. My in laws bought our old ea from us and drove it from Brisbane to Melbourne. Half way down the Hume when one of the culprits (too long ago to remember which one) decided to crap out and they had to walk an hour or so to the next town to get help.

Fuses, relays? Oh, that epoxy putty for fuel/radiator leaks

That sounds like the perfect method to me, looks factory.. no butchery[emoji108]

Never heard of them before but looks interesting and they even have one to fit a rover v8 and the Ford 300. I like the anti theft bit. From the page... The Progression Ignition distributor is your all-in-one solution for high performance ignition. This HEI version is CNC machined from billet aluminum. Includes a 65,000 volt coil mounted in the cap. Features Ignition timing is adjusted with your smartphone or tablet using the Progression Ignition Tuner App. There are NO mechanical adjustments inside the distributor. Easy to use! The app will create a custom timing table for you by entering just a few basic numbers. Tune with a modern style timing table interface. Powerful editing features for expert tuners but easy enough for a novice Make timing adjustments in real time with the engine running or not Store as many tables as you want on the smartphone or tablet. Change tables instantly using the app. Theft prevention feature prevents the engine from starting using the app. Wireless Bluetooth connection The internal ignition module maximizes coil current to 8 amps up to 10,000 RPM Built in Rev Limiter 2.5 bar MAP sensor for turbo and supercharged applications Timing range of 10 degrees BTDC to 50 degrees BTDC One wire hookup just like a stock HEI Distributor gear is compatible with flat tappet cams (cast iron) and hydraulic roller cams (austempered ductile iron). Aftermarket billet steel solid roller cams will require a different gear. Some billet steel cams have a regular cast gear pressed on which is compatible. Check with the cam manufacturer. THIS PRODUCT IS LEGAL FOR OFF ROAD USE AND NON POLLUTION CONTROLLED VEHICLES (1965 & OLDER); HOWEVER, IT HAS NOT BEEN TESTED OR APPROVED BY THE CALIFORNIA AIR RESOURCES BOARD (CARB) FOR HIGHWAY VEHICLES IN THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. BY PURCHASING THIS PRODUCT, BUYER AGREES IT WILL NOT BE USED ON POLLUTION CONTROLLED VEHICLES IN CALIFORNIA, OR IN A STATE WITH SIMILAR EMISSIONS REGULATIONS.

Apparently the one doing the rounds of web with ls heads was modified with a hacksaw and "welded" with epoxy.

I love how you can still tell this country was founded on criminals... Can't come into work today boss. Oh, why not? .. I'm dead.. Fine, make sure you bring in the certificate tomorrow.

Shouldn't have any problems with it then. Like I said above, it's only written down as too expensive for them. If you take on the job they don't care.

That's a possibility depending on the details but it may just require an inspection to be covered again.

Just to clarify the wording for people.... What Shannon's are doing is assessing the vehicle and deeming the repairs to not be financially viable for them and in doing so, they "write off" the policy as being a "total loss" from their books. It works out cheaper for them to give you the money back than to proceed with the repairs and lose money as supplementary claims would most likely be filed for extras found along the way (scratches here or broken tabs there mean more paint or parts to replace, plus not everything is available in the same condition as pre accident). This total loss is only recorded on their books for their own balance sheet to add up correctly. It is different to a statutory write-off which means the car is not deemed safe to repair or if it is, then it must pass a VIV and various official inspections and validation to ensure that the vehicle is repaired to exact standards. The process is so strict that spot welds get counted and things are inspected before and after paint work to ensure there's no filler used in the wrong places. Congrats for using your repairer who knows how the insurance companies system works and has the knowledge to use it to your advantage. [emoji106][emoji106]

That roof was exactly what I was just thinking about. If I went and chopped up mine I would peel the existing one without cutting it, then most likely make a skin from scratch with the lower profile like the sedan.

It's still up for offers if someone wants to take it on.

You have to host pictures somewhere like imgur etc and link them back to your post or upload using Tapatalk. The forum doesn't support direct file uploads. [emoji106]

As far as the quote goes it's fine and reasonable, covers all the bases and goes a little further than usual with the whole side painted instead of blended at the door and quarter. For paint look at it this way, I know it won't be original any more but it's the cheapest way to get a full respray in quality products. As I read the list I was already thinking, hope you can talk about doing the rest, and yep there it is [emoji106]. Cut the cost by doing the removal of handles etc yourself if he let's you. If you want it like glass, talk to him about dropping an extra layer of clear so that you can wet sand and buff afterwards. If you feel that you are able to do it that is, it's not really difficult but time consuming. I understand why he's cut panels and in person I might have done that too. He knows the cars well and it's easier and quicker than chasing old damage that they aren't technically allowed to repair on the insurance dollar.

Most of what I saw and what you described (I already guessed most of that list and a bit more) will unfold when it's pulled out on the rack. From what I'm looking at, I wouldn't be cutting any panels off until the cosmetics could be assessed after the pull was done. It's possible the back panel will tear/separate from the floor a little but that's minor.

I think Shannon's has a 75-80% marker for write off's. Might be higher on the vintage stuff I'm not sure, haven't been around the insurance stuff for ages. The repairs are fairly basic from what I can see in the photos but call that an educated guess, there's always more to find under the skin. Nothing looks crushed enough for me to call it unrepairable.. A few pumps and the boot would be just about back in position.. Front needs a careful tug to pull the guard back out with it. Hard part is high quality trim pieces which are rare as you already know but you could come to some sort of agreement with the agency to repair the car minus those trims and source them yourself. I follow a guy on fb that repairs stainless trims to perfect condition, Carl mills I think is his name.

That's the point when it becomes a track car with a wild engine, at least then if it gets bent it will be while doing something fun.

Hopefully it helps when I say that it's all repairable and if they do it right it should only require minimal paint, thus preserving the original look/condition.

With only 5L left in the tank, is it a flow issue? Pump simply not collecting enough because gravity isn't helping much? My white rover got stranded with only a few litres of fuel, starved itself around a corner and refused to run again until I'd gotten 20+ back into it to provide enough back pressure in the line/tank to get proper flow again.

A horn can be located anywhere as long as it functions properly, is loud enough and doesn't get fouled by dirt/water causing it to fail. A lot of cars have their horns located on the front side of the radiator support hidden behind the grill or bumper. Some are under the headlight assembly and some are under the front edge of the guard but safely behind a plastic liner.

Works now[emoji106]

I know where there's a van..... But I also know that you can't be bothered with gemini rust, let alone Ford rust

One of my rovers wouldn't shut off the gas without using some sort of pliers on the valve and then wouldn't flow unless absolutely undone all the way again.