2redrovers

Most of what I saw and what you described (I already guessed most of that list and a bit more) will unfold when it's pulled out on the rack. From what I'm looking at, I wouldn't be cutting any panels off until the cosmetics could be assessed after the pull was done. It's possible the back panel will tear/separate from the floor a little but that's minor.

I think Shannon's has a 75-80% marker for write off's. Might be higher on the vintage stuff I'm not sure, haven't been around the insurance stuff for ages. The repairs are fairly basic from what I can see in the photos but call that an educated guess, there's always more to find under the skin. Nothing looks crushed enough for me to call it unrepairable.. A few pumps and the boot would be just about back in position.. Front needs a careful tug to pull the guard back out with it. Hard part is high quality trim pieces which are rare as you already know but you could come to some sort of agreement with the agency to repair the car minus those trims and source them yourself. I follow a guy on fb that repairs stainless trims to perfect condition, Carl mills I think is his name.

That's the point when it becomes a track car with a wild engine, at least then if it gets bent it will be while doing something fun.

Hopefully it helps when I say that it's all repairable and if they do it right it should only require minimal paint, thus preserving the original look/condition.

With only 5L left in the tank, is it a flow issue? Pump simply not collecting enough because gravity isn't helping much? My white rover got stranded with only a few litres of fuel, starved itself around a corner and refused to run again until I'd gotten 20+ back into it to provide enough back pressure in the line/tank to get proper flow again.

A horn can be located anywhere as long as it functions properly, is loud enough and doesn't get fouled by dirt/water causing it to fail. A lot of cars have their horns located on the front side of the radiator support hidden behind the grill or bumper. Some are under the headlight assembly and some are under the front edge of the guard but safely behind a plastic liner.

Works now[emoji106]

I know where there's a van..... But I also know that you can't be bothered with gemini rust, let alone Ford rust

One of my rovers wouldn't shut off the gas without using some sort of pliers on the valve and then wouldn't flow unless absolutely undone all the way again.

Yeah I was annoyed at that with the last test I had. Half a tank went out and barely a quarter went back in. Assuming it's also the mixed gas from previous testing tanks of unknown origin.

Possible they didn't open the valve fully. Also possible the gas that went back in wasn't clean/dry. Is that under all conditions? First start?.. hot running? Depending where I get my gas from it lacks power when cold starting until it warms up, then fine. United seems to make it do that whereas Liberty(shell) doesn't.

Glad it's working again, I have nothing to add except that I misread #1 as "slapper motor" [emoji28]

Is that plain white or a metallic? If it's plain then I'm pretty sure it won't have clear coat. Solid colours are usually "direct gloss" but some may have clear for uv stability (some red for example). Either way you should be able to cut and polish no problems, should be plenty of paint thickness to work with before you get into trouble. Try it by hand on a small area that's less visible if concerned about it.

I sent you a fb msg [emoji106]

I always wanted a "colour spark"... A transparent spark plug for visible tuning on older style engines like these. Still might get one eventually, sold mostly via the UK. There's the 1600 I was going to get for the van, I believe it's still there. Capri 1600 plus auto etc. Or you are welcome to have a closer look at my 1300 to see if it's in good shape.

Unless I'm mistaken its a wire with a specific resistance for X length.. Where normal wire has nominal or next to nothing resistance, resistor wire has a value in the 100's of ohms range. Basically it provides the load that the ballast resistor does

Repco had a sale on... A pair of cheapskin seat covers, job done [emoji106]

Just needs a little duct tape for that "period correct" repair [emoji6]

Something like this diy jack helper might have been useful to hold the trans Made it to help hold the uneven disco axles. Just scraps with a tube to slip into the trolley jack pad

Oh that was sooooooo much fun

Was that because they limited the fun or was it a faulty switch? [emoji28]

Yep, start super simple and check out the battery cables. I don't know how long it was like that but thankfully it decided to not work at home instead of randomly at the shops or even in traffic. Came loose with the action of jump starting the disco that morning and didn't start when I got back home that night. Turned the key and everything was normal except the starter just clunked the solenoid, dash normal, fuel pump primed, same effect in park/neutral, just a slower click or clunk of the solenoid operating and holding position but no cranking at all. Changed the starter for a spare and got the same thing. Only found the wires when Dean helped me diagnose the problem and bumped the terminal cover to find that photo above. Cleaned everything up and fitted the cables back properly. Fired straight up and quieter with the different starter motor

Yeah I wouldn't be in a hurry to undo that tank connection either, like you said it's probably brittle and asking for trouble. I'd suck it through the fuel line with an electric pump like Dean mentioned. I've done that with one of my rovers in the past. Pull at least a couple of litres out that way into a clear container of some kind so you can see what condition the fuel is in and if it's picking up any crud along with it.

That pic isn't terrible exactly, just really unattractive. Lose the top brackets and I'd maybe close in the bottom one to almost be a solid box so it looks like a block. Paint it all black and it would disappear pretty much. But if you've got the perches I'd go with those too.

Don't know, but I'm watching in case I have to do the same thing for my truck.