2redrovers

What's the cost of supporting systems? Is there a cheaper "stock" way to get it running that you could upgrade later and spread the cost out a bit?

Does the gearbox still work with zetec?

I like it. That's how I would have done the front too.

You should be able to get the data sheets for it and double check that it will do what you want and to see exactly how to use it properly.

Yep that's the stuff we used. I recommend any of the fusor products when you are looking for trade quality adhesives, pricey but excellent quality.

At the smash shop I used to use fusor brand 2part glue for plastics or weld it back together with the soldering iron or combination of whatever worked for the specific repair at the time. The glue works best with a rough surface to grip and needs to be spotless clean, also some sort of mesh like fibreglass tape or fly screen to reinforce the join helped where suitable. I have read that acetone will melt abs and weld itself back together but you would have to try it out on some scraps before the real thing becomes I haven't done it personally. If I knew back then it would have saved a lot of time and effort if it works.

That's about 2k in shop time you've saved yourself [emoji6][emoji106]

Nope, I didn't think you could use Google for hosting like that, permissions get in the way?

That looks fairly easy to oil proof, just keep a half inch or an inch of the tube on the case side and make the new selector tube slip over it with o rings or sealant/glue to seal it up. Should make for a pretty robust join too. The plates they welded on the sides are because there's nothing to weld to at the corners of the selector box/case. They took the easy way out and fairly ugly if what I see on my phone is anything to judge the welds by. If you weld, don't bother trying for dimes just sand it smooth and make it seamless. That thick side rib looks good for tapping and bolt location.

No worries mate

To learn the welding side I'd consider getting a junk gearbox case of the same/similar type and slice it up then attempt to join it back together. I don't imagine it will want to weld nicely and it will be vastly different to practice on scrap sheets. For bolt on idea, if you want any help just let me know.

Is there a possible way to do it without jumping into tig welding alloy, especially if you don't already have the gear? Replicate the section of housing in steel and sell an adapter kit for a near bolt on conversion. If it could be done you'd open up a mail order side to it. I've got half an idea of what it could be but I might be way off the mark.

Depends how paranoid you are and if you really want to cut Ol' Murphy off at the pass, a spare alternator and starter if it's not manual. If you have them on hand I think I'd take them to make sure you don't need them. My in laws bought our old ea from us and drove it from Brisbane to Melbourne. Half way down the Hume when one of the culprits (too long ago to remember which one) decided to crap out and they had to walk an hour or so to the next town to get help.

Fuses, relays? Oh, that epoxy putty for fuel/radiator leaks

That sounds like the perfect method to me, looks factory.. no butchery[emoji108]

Never heard of them before but looks interesting and they even have one to fit a rover v8 and the Ford 300. I like the anti theft bit. From the page... The Progression Ignition distributor is your all-in-one solution for high performance ignition. This HEI version is CNC machined from billet aluminum. Includes a 65,000 volt coil mounted in the cap. Features Ignition timing is adjusted with your smartphone or tablet using the Progression Ignition Tuner App. There are NO mechanical adjustments inside the distributor. Easy to use! The app will create a custom timing table for you by entering just a few basic numbers. Tune with a modern style timing table interface. Powerful editing features for expert tuners but easy enough for a novice Make timing adjustments in real time with the engine running or not Store as many tables as you want on the smartphone or tablet. Change tables instantly using the app. Theft prevention feature prevents the engine from starting using the app. Wireless Bluetooth connection The internal ignition module maximizes coil current to 8 amps up to 10,000 RPM Built in Rev Limiter 2.5 bar MAP sensor for turbo and supercharged applications Timing range of 10 degrees BTDC to 50 degrees BTDC One wire hookup just like a stock HEI Distributor gear is compatible with flat tappet cams (cast iron) and hydraulic roller cams (austempered ductile iron). Aftermarket billet steel solid roller cams will require a different gear. Some billet steel cams have a regular cast gear pressed on which is compatible. Check with the cam manufacturer. THIS PRODUCT IS LEGAL FOR OFF ROAD USE AND NON POLLUTION CONTROLLED VEHICLES (1965 & OLDER); HOWEVER, IT HAS NOT BEEN TESTED OR APPROVED BY THE CALIFORNIA AIR RESOURCES BOARD (CARB) FOR HIGHWAY VEHICLES IN THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. BY PURCHASING THIS PRODUCT, BUYER AGREES IT WILL NOT BE USED ON POLLUTION CONTROLLED VEHICLES IN CALIFORNIA, OR IN A STATE WITH SIMILAR EMISSIONS REGULATIONS.

Apparently the one doing the rounds of web with ls heads was modified with a hacksaw and "welded" with epoxy.

I love how you can still tell this country was founded on criminals... Can't come into work today boss. Oh, why not? .. I'm dead.. Fine, make sure you bring in the certificate tomorrow.

Shouldn't have any problems with it then. Like I said above, it's only written down as too expensive for them. If you take on the job they don't care.

That's a possibility depending on the details but it may just require an inspection to be covered again.

Just to clarify the wording for people.... What Shannon's are doing is assessing the vehicle and deeming the repairs to not be financially viable for them and in doing so, they "write off" the policy as being a "total loss" from their books. It works out cheaper for them to give you the money back than to proceed with the repairs and lose money as supplementary claims would most likely be filed for extras found along the way (scratches here or broken tabs there mean more paint or parts to replace, plus not everything is available in the same condition as pre accident). This total loss is only recorded on their books for their own balance sheet to add up correctly. It is different to a statutory write-off which means the car is not deemed safe to repair or if it is, then it must pass a VIV and various official inspections and validation to ensure that the vehicle is repaired to exact standards. The process is so strict that spot welds get counted and things are inspected before and after paint work to ensure there's no filler used in the wrong places. Congrats for using your repairer who knows how the insurance companies system works and has the knowledge to use it to your advantage. [emoji106][emoji106]

That roof was exactly what I was just thinking about. If I went and chopped up mine I would peel the existing one without cutting it, then most likely make a skin from scratch with the lower profile like the sedan.

It's still up for offers if someone wants to take it on.

You have to host pictures somewhere like imgur etc and link them back to your post or upload using Tapatalk. The forum doesn't support direct file uploads. [emoji106]

As far as the quote goes it's fine and reasonable, covers all the bases and goes a little further than usual with the whole side painted instead of blended at the door and quarter. For paint look at it this way, I know it won't be original any more but it's the cheapest way to get a full respray in quality products. As I read the list I was already thinking, hope you can talk about doing the rest, and yep there it is [emoji106]. Cut the cost by doing the removal of handles etc yourself if he let's you. If you want it like glass, talk to him about dropping an extra layer of clear so that you can wet sand and buff afterwards. If you feel that you are able to do it that is, it's not really difficult but time consuming. I understand why he's cut panels and in person I might have done that too. He knows the cars well and it's easier and quicker than chasing old damage that they aren't technically allowed to repair on the insurance dollar.