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Everything posted by 2redrovers
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Worn fan bearings/bushings? Maybe on 3, the rpm is just right to make it wobble and slow down? Just a thought.
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That's the best way to go and in reality, it doesn't take any extra effort when compared to chasing problems later (paint reactions, bubbles, etc)
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Yeah that's the type, refers to the curly nylon abrasive. I use a large diameter disc without the backing pad. Get them from your local bodyshop / auto paint supplier. It's important to use a variable speed grinder/sander for this type of disc. Don't spin them too fast or they will break apart and fly off at high speed. I usually run at about half speed on mine. That also applies to the type you linked with the backing pad, the glue is often weakened from not being stored properly prior to sale.
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The best method is bare metal then prime with ppg 408 epoxy (in grey-green is the best version), then filler if required, reprime with the 408 epoxy to seal the filler, then start the process for painting (hifill, sanding, colour etc). You can do a panel at a time, the epoxy is 2 pak but does take a long time to dry so be aware of that but it's relatively cheap and the best on the market as far as the resto scene is concerned. I'd strip it with a poly disc for most of it, red brush what I couldn't reach, treat any rust with acid then seal it as above with epoxy. It will be good for a couple of years if done correctly like that and weather proof as well.
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I use these from supercheap https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-nylon-filament-wheel-brush/550790.html Use in the power drill it will take the rust off without biting into the metal like a grinder wheel. It will strip paint, filler, primer, rust and clean up metal for welding. I use them the most along with flap wheels and strip discs. You can do the red brush first or you can get some rainex rust buster acid from bunnings (phosphoric acid) and use a bit of steel wool or a scourer /scotchbrite to scrub any rusty metal. The acid is brilliant and will take off all the rust with a little elbow grease, back to clean metal, scrub on, wipe off, it will only react to bare metal (doesn't work through paint). Give it a sand when you are ready to paint it, as if it was just bare steel, sand with 180# start primer, slap some paint over and all good. Assuming you just want to patch it so it doesn't rust to pieces. If you want to respray the whole thing, strip a panel at a time, wash it down with acid, wash it down with metho or thinners, epoxy prime then start the repair/paint process.
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Are you on facebook? Someone looking to buy a 400 https://m.facebook.com/groups/197562983773533/permalink/1739457599584056/
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Leaking oil... Yeah I'd call that pretty much standard too
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Ta daaa ... Yeah... I don't know what I'm looking at...
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I don't know the difference but you got me curious about what my van has under it.... Besides more rust...
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Mate put bigger and slotted brakes on a stock manual bombadore. People would comment similar saying what's the point of that etc... The point was he USED them to the limits keeping his race track skills on point. Hot laps around the local "track" out front of the shop. Having too much brake is rarely a bad thing (unless you can't depend on them when they are cold and some idiot cuts you off on the street) .
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Might know where a *ahem* good one is..... ... Crap, i wasn't supposed to laugh when I said that was I...
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Cool stuff. Have to see if we can get more boxes happening.
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So that's with the short shifter? Does look like you're going to be grabbing at the wrong slot for a while until you get used to it [emoji6]
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Good stuff [emoji41][emoji106]
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Good to hear [emoji106][emoji106]
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Put your straight edge on the end of the case, use a ruler or a straight length of wire/rod and measure the depth of the inside of case to the spot next to the pin. Line up the ruler/wire on the outside of the case perpendicular to the straight edge. Hey presto.. You now know how thick the casting is in that spot. BTW the weld is the same consistency as the the cast give or take a little difference in density. Physically drilling it won't be difficult, finding the right spot would take an educated guess. I'd probably go just behind the round bump in the casting support and 3-4mm up from the fin surface. That should find the void, go slow and you should feel the bit fall in to it. Poke a wire in the hole to find the end of the pin and that will give you the measurements of the pin when you add the thickness of the case plus the visible length.
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From the side, I'd probably aim for where the back of the pin used to be.
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Reference photos of the other box
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That would probably help. How do you feel about drilling a small hole into the void behind the pin, then use some wire or such to probe and measure where the pin now sits?
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If it hasn't been pulled past the original casting then you could drill and tap the case to run in a lock/set screw. Another thought I just had, drill a pin hole behind and pump in some epoxy glue to fill the void so it can't push back in.
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The other box
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I didn't think you had more than 5mm to play with. Reference photos of your pin housing 3 maybe 4mm past the round casting node is where the end of the pin was.
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Yeah that's the first option I said, or a collet chuck, same thing. I'd use a thread /bolt to pull it out slightly like a gear puller.
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Not all the way out, just forward enough to keep the fork on the pin.
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I could be wrong but I don't think the fork was removed from the shaft so it should still be as original.