2redrovers

Ha, you need a louvre type vent that you can open and close from the cabin. Actually come to think of it, that's not as crazy as it sounds, but think along the lines of a deflector that you can change the angle of the incoming air to push it away from the rad.

Fingers crossed

You can reco those non-detatchable guns, did it a couple times on my old welder. Replace the liner with a generic off the shelf replacement and make sure all contacts and joins are good/sealed (gas line runs through the trigger on those) My very well used unimig 180. The problematic relay is the blue one in upper center of the board. If it sticks I get a dull click out of the other relay, no gas flow and no wire feed. It seems to be the one that makes the wire actually feed out and turns on the voltage to it. Some welders are basically live all the time, older basic models without the voltage reduction circuit. A problem with yours maybe related to this or it could be that the voltage side is functional but the feed isn't. End up with a live wire that doesn't move. I had something like this when my unimig cracked it the first time. Fixed under warranty, guy stopped short of actually agreeing with me that I just wore it out lol.

Yeah if it's out of warranty then rip it open and give it a good clean. Blow it all down with the compressor and get the dust out. I do this regularly as you'd be amazed how much gets sucked through it with the fan. Mine has developed a sticky relay again. This time it's out of warranty so I've cut a trapdoor so I can smack it with a screwdriver when it gets stuck[emoji16]

I tossed up between a boss weld and my unimig 180, both similar units with transformer power rather than inverters. Only issue I've had is wearing out the relay but that can be replaced for about five bucks. It's now an older model but I saw it for sale in total tools, under 500 from memory. Bunnings is now selling boss weld units too. I'd be tempted by the mig/tig unit.

Nananananananana-pankman! Lol [emoji16] couldn't help myself

Ah fair enough, been a while and didn't remember if you had changed it or not. Which one did you install? Another possible factor to rule out, is the fuel getting sacked back from the carbie and line in the cold weather? I remember you had issues with expansion in the summer, maybe getting the opposite in winter?

Can you run an antifreeze as opposed to a coolant? Another thing that I understand helps with cold starting is changing to an electronic dizzy instead of the old points style. Supposed to give a stronger and more reliable spark.

Glad you found it before it burned. I'm no expert but does just sound like a rebuild kit will fix it....when you get over the other ouch in the hip pocket.

Oops.. And it looked so good on the road the other day

Someone on Facebook is making one pretty much the way I chopped it

Had a flip through your link there and looks like it came up nice, well done [emoji106] I liked the hint made about the wide body to go with it[emoji6]

Cool. Did you make it like a removable body kit or is it fixed/welded to the bodywork?

A blow torch or intense heat source works to soften it and the bulk can be scraped off with a paint scraper etc. Residue can be washed off with thinners or brushed off like your doing now.

99% of the under body deadener used by any manufacturer is bitumen based. So bit of solvent, some tar, rubber compounds left over from tyres probably.. That kind of thing. No fibrous material because it's sprayed on mostly. Watch the internal yellow fibre kind like on the firewall, heater, roof etc. Mostly fibreglass but could be more than that.

Just as well you waited till the window sealant was cured[emoji6]

I'm starting to look seriously at making parts for people to buy. Common but currently unavailable sections and patches that may be too complicated for the average diy guy to manage on their own. I'll be making components by hand for the best fit I can possibly achieve. I can't make everything, but if it's feasible, I'll certainly give it a shot. To do this though, I will need to get my hands on a good part to copy. So two questions for you. Firstly, what patches do you want most? Things like inner door corners such as this one for the torana I'm working on No one currently makes this part so it was a good starting point. Secondly, I need an honest indication of what you would pay for the nominated panel? I'm not going for a "highest bid" scenario, just need to be able to gauge what's financially viable. I'm happy to make anything I can for you guys and I'm sure you can all under for example, that I'm unable to put 20hours into a part if it's only worth $100. So what are you looking for? All suggestions / requests will be considered and price can be negotiated privately if you prefer.

Yeah well I think there should be no skydiving for wombats but what's that got to do with panel beating a new beaver?

You're not into a ruined beaver for 69...dollars that is

"had come threw my hands have all been shagged like dean " I know that's not what you meant to say... But fk it was funny[emoji23] If there's one that just has a hole in it but otherwise straight and not missing detail, that would be workable. If the shape isn't too complex I'm sure I can do something with it.

And a sweet one it is too [emoji41][emoji106] maybe we can figure out how to make up some templates if this pans out

Cheers Dean. If someone has a spare one they can give me for a while I can look into it.

Anything could be possible, I haven't looked at that panel to know what's involved though. Is it a bolt on or weld on panel? I'd need either the part or a car to work from for templates etc.

Sweet[emoji106]

Congrats, you got the job of sales rep[emoji16] I did find where you posted them up and I'm cool with what you've said. If this pans out into actual orders for parts, I'm going to need to borrow an xp for a few hours to make some good templates.