ICEWOLF

Hey guys Was wondering where the best location for my Holley sniper EFI temp sensor would be? Holley instructions say: "Must be installed in a coolant passage in either the intake manifold or cylinder head. Do not install in thermostat housing." I presume that means neither of the 2 previous temp sensor locations will do? One was factory just below the thermostat housing and the other was a speco gauge in the water pump just below the heater hose

The line which was there was ridiculous. Out of the tank it went to a short piece of hose to a short hard-line to a short hose to a plastic pipe that went through a rubber grommet into a cavity in the sill you can't get to then poked out another grommet near the front to a hose to another hard-line into the engine bay to a hose to a filter to a hose to the pump to a hose to the regulator to a hose to a pressure gauge to a hose to the hard-line that went into the carb New setup is in tank pump, braided to front, filter, braid to Holley. Think I will just run them close to the sill but not in it as I don't like the idea of having loose lines in places I can't see them. Not going hard-line but even if I was the question would still be where to put it

Where is the best place to run braided fuel line under an XC? The factory line goes into the sill and pops out near the front. Not sure how easy it will be to feed two -6 lines through there. The brake hard line runs along the edge of the tunnel to keep it away from the bottom of the car. Is this a viable spot to run it? I presume it's not a good idea or possibly illegal to run it along the bottom of the floor?

No one got any ideas or info on what's legal?

Yeah wish there was a chassis rail to do that along

Been looking at hoses, leads and plugs for the XE and wondering why the XFs have different parts. Weren't the EFI XE and EFI XFs much the same engine and engine bay wise? If not any one know what the differences were?

Is it worth switching over to the xf style cap and leads? Could do it if it's a better design since I am replacing both at the same time. Don't know about the spacer you mentioned though. Where does that go? The heater hoses being different was the main one I was concerned about as I will have to order them in since no one stocks them these days. Don't want to end up with the wrong ones

How did you go? End up turning out to be any good?

sign up to photobucket and upload your pictures there then you just copy the IMG tags off there and paste them in your post

I have the same tyres on both my cars. i just spray the whole tyre with cheapo tyre shine and then hit the letters with some fine steel wool and then a clean rag. If you dont have the steel wool then fold up a square of aluminum foil into a little pad and scuff it up on the concrete. Once scuffed up just rub the letters like you would with the steel wool normally i use the steel wool but the other day i was knocking some rust off a set of 12 slotters with aluminium foil and after i finished tried it on the letters and it worked a treat

Hey Guys Been having a problem with the XE. Its a 83 XE Spac EFI manual. Sometimes it would drive fine othertimes it would idle fine but as soon as you gave it some throttle it would start dying and running really rough I changed the air and fuel filters and fitted a new set of plugs and gave it an oil change. No difference then i pulled the dizzy and had a look at the gear which was a bit worn. I have had the car for 9 years and had to replace that gear about 4 years ago when it wore down and broke a few teeth off. Put in a crow gear a couple of weeks ago and set the timing by ear. Car was running great and the problem was all gone Put in some low octane fuel on tuesday and drove to work (25km each way) and back 2.5 times (125kms) so i dont think the fuel would be the issue Today the issue came back. Only slightly within the first 5km but then worse and worse till i barely got up the hill close to home. When it was only slightly doing happening i could rev in neutral but not under load but by the time I was home it wouldnt even rev in neutral happilly As long as its under 2000rpm and minimal throttle it runs ok enough (how i made it home) Any ideas? Timing maybe or a sensor? daily driver so really need to get on top of this asap thanks in advance

plugs looked fine when i changed them (changed them after the first time i had the issue. lacks power and sputters dont have a spare AFM so will have to find one. I checked the AFM when i gave it the service and the movement felt good but i know that doesnt mean much. Canberra wreckers are super expensive so unfortunately it will be a lot more then $10 but i will see if I can lay my hands on one. Wish I didnt get rid of all my spares when i moved house but thems the breaks

if you are running an electronic ignition i believe you should be running a bosch 715 not a gt40. gt40 is 3ohm which is even higher then the GT40R

asked the same thing here a few weeks ago in the auto elec section and didn't get much feedback. have to remember to post here next time a few people on xfalcon however pointed me in the direction of these ones as they were running them http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-CLEVELAND-V8-302-351-ELECTRONIC-DISTRIBUTOR-LATE-12-5MM-END-COIL-LEADS/200749746147?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D9082989038801906331%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D200749746147%26&clk_rvr_id=516761213124 i got one and installed it a couple of weeks ago and so far so good. Using the 10mm topgun leads i already had though. Its a bosch copy dizzy and coil and they say its compatible with the bosch internally so kept my old one for parts (bushes were shagged) from what I could gather these were the only cheap bosch copies on ebay that people had good things to say about and for the price i figured it was worth a try

Looks like the dizzy in my XC 351 clevo is on its way out. It is occasionally making a nasty noise from the cap that sounds maybe the rotor is hitting the contacts. If I push down on the lid sometimes the noise goes away or lessens. When it is making the noise the rpm on the tach goes up though the actual rpm isnt necessarily going up (since i have seen this happen when its in gear). New cap didnt help (sounded worse if anything) and neither did swapping the clips or the rotor. After lots of screwing around worked out that I need the smaller size dizzy shaft (12.5mm I believe). From the code on the engine it appears to be out of a 79 F100 (AL1JWP) which would make you think similar to the XD engine. The engine is black though it looks like it was blue underneath which is why I wasnt really sure. Found a 8mm socket which was 12.8mm wide though and it was only just too big to fit in the hole so pretty sure I got the size I need right. Need some recommendations as to what dizzy to get to replace mine. Autopro can get me a rebuilt one with chinese parts for $200 or with Bosch parts for $300. The other option is the MSD8350 which I can get for $500 from Engine Master Australia and they will modify the shaft to the smaller size for free. Dont really want to spend more then that (ICE or others are $600+) Is it worth spending the extra to get the MSD? If anyone can recommend me one I havent listed I would be happy to hear your experiences with cheaper or alternative options. Are any of the cheap ebay options ok? Car came with a spare cheapo HEI dizzy but the cap is way too big to fit in with the air filter Engine seemingly mild at the moment though would like to have a good enough dizzy for any future plans. I dont know the cam specs or any internal details unfortunately. Only got the car recently hence no project thread yet but I will post it up once i get some decent pictures

someone must have some sort of experience or advice with these things?

mine is a manual too so the rev limiter on the msd setup sounded like a nice idea. I was hoping to get the one I have rebuilt but the local auto elec near my work doesnt do them anymore. Is it something I need to get done by a shop or is it easy to do myself? the only other place I tried said it would cost me around $200 for them to rebuild it so it didnt seem worth if a new one wasnt going to cost a lot more is there any options that are cheaper then an msd but still an upgrade from a reco bosch?