CHESTNUTXE

Give that man a cigar

Dean would no that one 100% my bet is yes 1st of the alloy heads

Fair enough just remember iron Head crossy has different dizzy shaft.you need xe xf

I would ditch the est box and dizzy ,just try a xe style dizzy and STD coil,surely you might have one lying around 

make sure your dizzy is not a efi one,i went thru this once and could not get the engine to run under 2000rpm,once the carby dizzy was fitted it fired up perfect.

that is definatly an x file,maybe something was dropped on it or slightly dented the crank and someone did a small drill to smooth it out ? dont think its going to affect a std engine,just for a talking point DJ used to use a tiny drill bit on his forged pistons if they developed a crack so it would not go any further ,just goes to show how much of a budget the team was on in the early days.

good question,where they factory fitted or dealer fitted ? pretty sure bosch were used in xe anyway,can now buy replicas off e bay and the same fitting kit which goes on the middle bumper bolts,im thinking of fitting some to my xe just for a add on and looks,plus the bumper lip spoiler ,others have fitted hella and all sorts of spotlights,just what ever takes your fancy,but i would stick with the bosch if its a s pack.

I've also used many areoflow sumps and all were good,but I have always had the engine on the stand upside-down and fitted the sump with tiny increases on doing the bolts up to stretch the sump at all angles,then let it sit overnight and re torque again to spec until it seals on the sweet spot,squeezeing out the gasket is common,but not spliting like that,possibly a sharp spot or something?

yes i have had that problem a few times with after market mounts,just grind them back a bit to give a little clearance,i also got 1 mount that was made upsidedown yeah it still bolted on but looks a bit like the first picture you have,something dont look right there.

custom fab is needed,and lots of money i threw 10k into a carby  engine and got 210 rwhp better tune would have seen maybe 240,most use the std barra turbo with good results,use std oil pump,no one makes large valves so ya have to turn down 2v clevo intakes and use chev 1.6 exhaust,you can throw 3k easy at a crossflow head to make that kind of power you are talking about,yes either ef crank or std 250 crank,another thing to consider is 3 or 4 bolt balancer ,i would start with a 84da block it has 1 piece rear main seal and larger flywheel bolts.

just change your diff ratio.

yes 2.92 does go in,you just need the 2.92 carrier or centre ,the 2.77 did come out with 351 auto,some 302 had 2.92 ,im doing exactly that at the moment,using a late xf ute diff centre and 2.92 gears and retro fitting it into my xe drum brake housing.

i thought you had a auto,for your crossflow to rev to 5500 ish thats massive revs for a crossflow,sounds like you need a manual trans with taller 1st and so on,i did this on my last worked crossy,4 speed 009 single rail suited 302c and 250,taller first gear ,or v8 t5 has a nice 2.95 1st gear,another good one is the XB single rail 6 or 8,even taller 1st,depends if you want 4 or 5 speed trans,i ran 3.45 gears and 009 single rail and worked quite well,with hyd pedal set up,if your xf has the std single rail it will wind out very quickly i see what your saying.

dont do it,i have learnt many times it just dont work well,yeah it has great take off but looses drivabilty after 80kph,you could probly get away with 3.08,but 2.92 would be perfect,thats what i am doing with mine,if you think 2.77 is lame u should try 2.53 its awful but has great hwy manners and economy,3.23 did come out on some xe's but mainly 5 speed cars,or 3 speed manual,just find your self a 2.92 diff or gears and fit it up,but remember you need the 2.92 carrier to retrofit your 2.77 housing the rest is the same.

Back space of wheels lately  has really got my interest,especialy in x series,trying to fit 8 inch wide rims on my xe is not as easy as it sounds,back in the day you could buy 14x8 12 slots from bob jane with zero ET or 4 inch backspace, which would work on the front,as the 14x8 hotwires had a -6 ET,and did not fit correct ,well they did but came within 1mm of hitting suspension bits,generaly speaking most ford factory wheels in the 6 to 7 inch have a backspace of 3 and 3/4 or +6 ET,0 ET will work but cutting it fine,+ 4 or 5 i would prefer.

yeah we have all done it,learn the hard way,it is sooo easy to loosen the sump nuts and just lower the lip down a bit to get the seal in and cover fits perfect,long way round is the saftest and always works method,like 2 days ago a bit of bird shit landed on my car,so i detailed the whole car

Most spring saddles come with that rubber Dean ,weather it does anything, my ones I just fitted had the rubber,but some don't.

I thought you had a 6cyl,it's an 8,they are definitely low or super low v8 springs,bump stop is pretty close to hitting but drivable,can't see anything wrong in those pics,just take the wheel off,lower down the arm and take the shock out and see what is going on with that spring,take off the inner splash guard 6 bolts and that will give a better idea of what is going on

sometimes people put spring packers on top of the very low sets of springs just to raise them 5 or 10mm,the recess inside the tower sought of guides and holds the top of the spring into a comfortable position,but add a packer or nolathane spacer and it leaves the top of the spriing out of the groove so to say,and i hads this happen on my xf ute when i raised the low kings a cm and put bluepro spacers,the packer and spring moved somehow into an akward position and compleatly stuffed the spacer,just buy the right springs guys.yes like dean said low or super or ultra low will be able to turn and fix up but std i doubt it ,they are so high .

nah m8,that was years ago,sorry,just fine tune the one you are doing up,might take a few dummy fits but once soughted hyd pedal is awsome.

yup i had same problem,listen to obi wan you must,undo the striker wd40 the shit out of it,manualy use a screwdriver to strike it back and forwards a few times then spray more wd40 ,it wont be the door handle,but like dean said its the 15cm metal rod that needs flattening out or bending to take up the slack ,common problem is handle is pulled up and door wont open cause the rod needs that little bit extra pull to enguage the hook in the striker ,make sure child safety lock is off too,mine now works 100% from not working at all,15min job,once you have done it ,its easy and can fix all of them if needed.

x file or not ? the bolt that holds the spare wheel in a std GL is smaller in length than say a xe ghia ,my 14x7 hotwire does fit in the well,but the bolt wont reach even tho the wheel is in the correct way with it facing backwards to give more room on the offset of the mag to fit,but wait a 15x7 snowflake fits ? or is it the offset of the snowflake that lets the std bolt go in all the way ? really moulder your bolt is that long.

the one in the car atm is the 83 revised one ,it does work but ratio is a bit out,i knew this from the begining and just took a chance with it,i reckon the new one will solve all issues,and start in park like it used too,should take all of 10 mins to install it.

Now this one looks spot on to the factory diagram,note how it keeps it straight NESS and bends look the same as the 79 to 82 one in the picture a few posts back.

Just get a 450 quick fool.