xfish

That is true about the heater hoses in the firewall getting in the way, since I had a clevo in a 85 XF,.....but a work around is ( if your not interested in A.C ), is to plumb the heater hoses into the AC core...........( some hunting in supercheap for S bend heater hoses did the trick )and I guarantee you 100%.......you will get better heat in the cabin, thanks to the bigger AC core....and i just cut the ends of the original heater core and plumbed them up............

That is true about the heater hoses in the firewall getting in the way, since I had a clevo in a 85 XF,.....but a work around is ( if your not interested in A.C ), is to plumb the heater hoses into the AC core...........( some hunting in supercheap for S bend heater hoses did the trick )and I guarantee you 100%.......you will get better heat in the cabin, thanks to the bigger AC core....and i just cut the ends of the original heater core and plumbed them up............

It's is a solid bracket, and cant be maneuvered. I will just have to grind very gently, and no doubt, it will take several attempts to get it right.Cause as it stands, the alt bracket sits perfectly in the XD alt bracket, and I could only fit 1 copper washer at the back in there to take up the slack. cheers

It's is a solid bracket, and cant be maneuvered. I will just have to grind very gently, and no doubt, it will take several attempts to get it right.Cause as it stands, the alt bracket sits perfectly in the XD alt bracket, and I could only fit 1 copper washer at the back in there to take up the slack. cheers

yeah, thats a great idea.  I'd have to grind the front of the bracket and add washers to the back to push it forward..... cheers

ok, so the alternator is all bolted and strapped in, i ran an earth to the block from the alt( though I'm confident that i didnt need to, but did anyway ), and the alt charges at 14:68 and 14:58 at the battery in the boot. The volt guage ( xf ghia ) sits 7-9 bar, where before it would sit between 4 -6 , and my speco volt guage is just above 14 volt.  And as suspected, the battery light is on, so i will need to pull the bulb.
 
The only issue, is the alt pulley dosent line up perfectly with the water pump pulley. It's not dead straight as it use to be. The alt mount is bolted perfectly, and I cant pull the alt back any further than it is. To be dead straight, the alt would have to go back a maximum of 5mm . I've revved the car passed 3500 rpm and i havent slipped the belt. Honestly, i dont think this is a problem but if i start breaking/jumping belts, I will have to re-visit on how to do this.

sorry, that's what i meant. i should of said the top and lower manifold. my bad.....

Hey all,
 
Well, i took the car to another mechanic, and was told the spring in the distributor was broken, and had the wrong sparkplugs, cause there is a big difference between the 170kw vs the 185kw EL XR8. .......they replaced it, and the car has DISCOVERED full power again, and gear changing has returned to normal. Though it still has a miss ( rough idle ) every so often......so, we're going for an exchange ecu, fuel injectors, and fuel regulator in a few weeks, just to freshen things up a bit.. Yes, I'm throwing money at the car,( though it is over 20 years old ) and still is stock  from factory, but a few pieces here and there. Hoping this will work.....because the mechanic and son have the same car as myself, and know the EL XR8 185kw backwards......will let you know the outcome after it's next visit.

Hey all,
 
Well, i took the car to another mechanic, and was told the spring in the distributor was broken, and had the wrong sparkplugs, cause there is a big difference between the 170kw vs the 185kw EL XR8. .......they replaced it, and the car has DISCOVERED full power again, and gear changing has returned to normal. Though it still has a miss ( rough idle ) every so often......so, we're going for an exchange ecu, fuel injectors, and fuel regulator in a few weeks, just to freshen things up a bit.. Yes, I'm throwing money at the car,( though it is over 20 years old ) and still is stock  from factory, but a few pieces here and there. Hoping this will work.....because the mechanic and son have the same car as myself, and know the EL XR8 185kw backwards......will let you know the outcome after it's next visit.

or as an alternative, I install a dual pulley, and that should take up the length I need......thoughts

Hey guys
 I'm interested in purchasing the ('ford racing rocker covers, black and red in colour ), and noted that these covers need some mods to clear efi.....is anybody aware of the mods required for fitment?

Hey, after some internet surfing and visiting 'ALBERTS' in perth, I found my solution. Yes, it is weird to have RCA's for front only, but I was put onto the L.O.C.PRO Lp7-4 ( line output convertor ) , made by PAC. Simply run your speaker wires to the box, and it converts them to RCA's. You have to run a  earth and power to the box, but that's essentially  it. It can be used on any head unit made it the last 50 years to convert speaker wires to RCA's. I hope you find this usefull....

I purchased a sprint manifold + injector manifold, minus the car. If i could find a sprint, i'd definately park it in my shed along with my other collectibles. At present, i dont own a ELXR8, though i did about 10 years ago, So, I'm hunting one for the right price. I've spoken to a supercharger mob ( marks workshop in WA ), that stated a bolt on supercharger with a sprint manifold could push the car upto 400hp, without having to pull the motor down. A standard ELXR8 supercharger with all stock internals could produce a easily 300hp, but with a few tweeks here and there, 350hp is still a manigible amount. I will go through the due process to make it legit and have it compliance plated with permit.
 
I'm looking at one currently which has a pod filter on the end of the intake under the bonnett, so i will restore it to it's factory set-up, if i'm to purchase it. And make all the other necessary adjustments to it, to make it look factory again. The eastern states for ELXR8's price seem to ave most XR's priced between 2k -5k. But here in perth, they start at 3k and push all the way upto 8k.

ok.....I'll keep that in mind

Hi Oz Falcon
 
It seems Xfalcon has blown up all been sucked into a black hole , and thought i'd repost here....
 
I found a nice and easy way of adapting a BA/BF seat into a XF falcon without much issue. No need of brackets or welding needed. Firstly you'll need an original XF LTD electric seat base. You'll note when you dissasemble the BA/BF seat, the rear seat bolts line up perfectly with the rear bolt holes of the XF LTD electric seat base.  They'll need a small angle grinder love, and they mount perfect, But at the front you'll need to drill a hole ( to mount the front bolts of the BA/BF seat)through the runner of the LTD base ( at the front ), and this will make you loose about an inch and a bit of travel at the front.( you'll need to preform some hard love surgery with angle grinder at the front , but nothing too major.....I didnt bother worrying about the lift or tilts mechanics of the electric base and cut them out. , ( cutting the lift/tilt is a major angle grinder cut job, but still ptretty straight forward.) But i prefered the seat sitting as low as it could go due to height issue, but when mounted, it sits lower than the regular XF seat.If you wanted to get them to work, it's quite a possiblity. I had a quick play with hieght/tilt motors, and at it's lowest, it still seemed to high when mounted.  I wired the front motor which tracks the seat forward/back to a rocker switch on my NL fairlaine middle console., and works perfectly.
 
Check the vids.
 
 
 

 

Hi Oz Falcon
 
It seems Xfalcon has blown up all been sucked into a black hole , and thought i'd repost here....
 
I found a nice and easy way of adapting a BA/BF seat into a XF falcon without much issue. No need of brackets or welding needed. Firstly you'll need an original XF LTD electric seat base. You'll note when you dissasemble the BA/BF seat, the rear seat bolts line up perfectly with the rear bolt holes of the XF LTD electric seat base.  They'll need a small angle grinder love, and they mount perfect, But at the front you'll need to drill a hole ( to mount the front bolts of the BA/BF seat)through the runner of the LTD base ( at the front ), and this will make you loose about an inch and a bit of travel at the front.( you'll need to preform some hard love surgery with angle grinder at the front , but nothing too major.....I didnt bother worrying about the lift or tilts mechanics of the electric base and cut them out. , ( cutting the lift/tilt is a major angle grinder cut job, but still ptretty straight forward.) But i prefered the seat sitting as low as it could go due to height issue, but when mounted, it sits lower than the regular XF seat.If you wanted to get them to work, it's quite a possiblity. I had a quick play with hieght/tilt motors, and at it's lowest, it still seemed to high when mounted.  I wired the front motor which tracks the seat forward/back to a rocker switch on my NL fairlaine middle console., and works perfectly.
 
Check the vids.