xebruce

It’s on top of your throttle body held down by 10mm bolts.
From what you were saying this is a new fault since changing the inlet manifold, I highly doubt it’s a computer problem if you disconnected the battery. UNLESS you have a prexisting fault such as a leaking capacitor so the computer wasn’t able to hold a memory when you disconnected the battery. Honestly it sounds like someone yanked on the manifold too hard to get access to the gasket and pulled apart the wiring harness internally.

Was it a rhythmic misfire (ie single cylinder), or was it more random/uneven?

Either the idle speed motor isn’t plugged in properly and working or you have a vacuum leak. Perhaps a loose vacuum hose for the heater controls?

Is your aircon working? I have had a problem like this. Ended up being high- low idle circuit blown in ecu.
If it is... $50 secondhand ecu.... After you check aircon... You need a code reader.... Will save you heaps of time.
 

Got a 1998 XH XR6 and it had the common misfire when idling. Replaced the coil,leads and distributor cap. didn't fix it so replaced intake gasket and that fixed the problem.

BUT now the revs will just randomly drop down and its died coming up to lights a couple of times. Misfire has gone but now the idle seems screwed up.

Any ideas?

Thanks Bruce 

I assume if i get a 28oz one and match it up with the flex plate when i take the c4 out I should be able to copy where the material was removed from the flex plate when it was balanced and it should be close enough. But then again we all know wat happens when you rely on assumptions lol.

Any input would be well received thanks

bought a t5 combo out of a mustang to bolt up to my cleveland. Came with bellhousing, fly wheel, clutch, fork ect.  The fly wheel it came with is a 157 tooth 50oz ford one.When i got my motor built the rotating assembly was sent away and balanced. Wondering what sort of fly wheel i should be using with it?

All the original door actuators still working so will check earths for a start. They look like they want to move with the arm rest switch but not enough grunt. But plenty of power if using the remote. They have never worked off the armrest switch as long as I’ve had the car but they have always made the actuators move a little.


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Wondering if anyone can shed some light on this for me. I have an XE ghia, central locking has never worked with the key or switches in the front armrests. I have recently had an alarm installed and now the central locking works off a remote . When you use the armrest switch the interior lights will flicker and the volt gauge will also drop. I can here a relay sort of noise somewhere in the dash but it will not operate the central locking. Have tried different switches in the armrest as i have spares? Maybe a simple fix just unsure where to look. 

Thanks for any help Bruce

Ended up buying an XH XR6. Swapped the column shift over from a EL parts car no problems, everything just bolted up. The bench seat has been a bit of a nightmare though. The holes are in the floor for the front mounts are there but no nut on the underside. Rear mounts line up sweet. Modified the front brackets on the seat rails as the bucket seat mounts were about a bit wider. Got the mod done by and engineer for cert purposes. Came back from cert with them wanting to know if the factory mount i have the lap belts bolted to are designed to take the load of 2 belts. Buggered if I know how I'm supposed to find that out. Seat rail mod, lowering, wheel spacers, column conversion and the 20inch rims all good only being held up on this. fml. 

They go well with the ute,, 
fill the arches nicely . 

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Wanting a xg ute for work but need a bench seat, column shift. Been looking for a while and they don't seem to pop up down here. Plenty of the XG XR6 utes around. Wondering how hard to convert one to column shift. I assume you would just need a wrecked one to pinch the steering column out of and the linkages.

been pricing up the different options and looks like i'm just gong to have to wait to do this conversion. Got a holiday to Fiji coming up and then my wedding. Looks like i'm going to have to put up with the C4 for now. Thanks for all the info guys.

So emailed Mal Wood about the cleveland and the E series 6cyl T5 and this was there response.

Hi Bruce,

We do not make a Bellhousing to fit your Ford V8 using the Ford 6 T5.  The front shift of the bush box is not long enough.

Kind Regards,

Jeff @

Dellow Conversions

 Bugger. guess that means there bellhousings are suited to the 8cyl ones or the mustang one with the longer shaft.

Thanks for for your insight guys. Found a e series one locally so will go check it out in the weekend. how do i tell the difference between the 6 and 8 input shaft lengths to make sure is a 6 cyl one  and wether its a t5 or t5z.

Thanks guys, sounds like to much stuffing round for me. Looking  for the most straight forward option. There must be a pretty much bolt in option? There is a couple of trans places here that will put together a kit to bolt up to a Cleveland but the price is pretty steep. Which T5 am I best to look for?

Looking at buying a T5z out of a AU XR8 to put behind the clevo in my XE. I see the starter is on the other side of the bellhousing is this going to be an issue or is there any other issues i should be aware of. I assume the bellhousing will bolt up to my cleveo. thought they were the same as windsors?

Would apperciate any feed back, Thanks

Also remember that late model fans are only designed to pull air through a 26mm core

Wondering if anyone in nz has a pair for sale. doesn't matter what condition the fabric is in as I will have to recover them to suit esp interior anyway. Thanks

Southland Radiators. I can get it sent direct to you free freight.

don't waste your money on the alloy one mate its a pretty rubbish one. Put the money towards a decent copper brass factory one. I own a radiator shop in Invercargill. Im away tomorrow for a couple of weeks but you could give the guy that's looking after the shop for me and tell him you know me off here and ill tell him to do you a deal. Better radiator and they are serviceable later down the track and got the trans cooler in them.

What a mission. Ive got an xe Fairmont with a 302 put in it. First I removed the inner hand brake cable normally not too bad but the headers I have are a bit close to the 3 nuts. Had to bodge up a bit of a tool to get to one.  Then the power steering box. No way it was coming out the bottom and didn't really feel like lying under the car taking starter and exhaust off. so took the brake booster out and removed it that way.  Will take some photos of the tight spots tomorrow.

Another question. Is it going to do any damage to the cam or engine being a little out. Really just want it mobile to go round some panel shops. If I end up getting a panel and paint done i'll take the motor out then and do it.

Good choice...it may or may not seem to make a big difference but It really is the only way to find where the cam is.The only numbers to worry about are on the degree wheel...forget about whats on the timing chain kit as they serve no purpose at all unless you can prove where your cam is ground and set up.If you can't get it to the exact lift @ TDC specs go past it as this will allow for chain stretch in the future.So if your cam wants 100th @ TDC and you can only get 98 or 102 go for 102.But be warned I have spent up to 6hrs trying to get my cam timing "spot on" before...yes I can get that fussy about it.

 

Good luck and ask questions if you get stuck.

Cheers for the advice. Got side tracked today and ended taking the inner handbrake cable out what a mission. Now on to the leaking power steering box looks like ive got to take the brake booster out to get the thing out.