Trev Vaa

whats the piston measurement down the bore? it wont change compression if comparing 0 deck to 0 deck. standard 302 rods are just over 6" long, i think 6.030" center to center.

merge twin 2.25" into a Y collector with a 3" outlet, if its a mild motor not turning past 5000rpm that'll do, otherwise step it up to a single 3.5" exhaust. your choice of muffler will denote how loud it is. putting a hot dog or bullet muffler on the end just before the exit will keep it toned down.

http://www.falcongt.com.au/shop/shopexd.asp?id=1300&bc=no i didn't pay that much. genuine one wont be sold as its off the RPO. ill ask dad if he still wants to use my one as he wants it for a new motor.

yes you can get them, i have 2. one genuine one repo.

my 2 cents, try and clean the block up then measure it with a set of verniers if you can, you may find its already been rebuilt. my biggest concern with a block like that is what the water jackets would be like and how much would be left after acid soaking it. if you want to buy another engine, have a good look around, there is a lot of clevelands around and freight can be organised from interstate. another option if you are hard pressed would be to buy an engine down here (i know of a bloke who would have plenty), send your 6" rods down here and i can point you in the direction of a very very good machinist. don't fool yourself into thinking its cheap, id expect to pay 2K to have the block machined, a bottom end balanced and dummy assembly. minimum. pistons etc are all easily available for a 6" rod combo too, ross, diamond, arias, precision intl etc all keep them in stock. you can always collect your parts too then buy a block later on, everything except pistons & bearings that is, but they can just be ordered once you know what sizes you need, cam, heads, intake, carb, exhaust, etc can all be organised before hand. don't get bogged down thinking its too big of a project either, chip away at it and eventually you'll have everything.

chase your steps backwards, something is blocked if the peddle is hard. first step, undo the brake line from the caliper, if you have fluid coming out there then the calipers are seized, if not next step next undo flex line to hard line, check for fluid, if theres fluid then you have crap in the lines, if not next step then undo master cyl (be careful when you do this) and put a cup underneath it, check for fluid. if fluid comes out check for a pinched hardline and blow line out (make sure its all disconnected) with compressed air, you may have shit in it or the line might be kinked. still no fluid? master cyl needs replacing. check all stages, even if it ends up being the master cyl do not reassemble the whole system, there's a good chance there's shit in the lines that you'll need to clean out. do yourself a favour, wear nitrile gloves.

its not a rev limit.... the mild combo i posted will go to 6000

gerg has spoken words of wisdom. id advise listening to him

^ now thats at the higher end of what you would want to build. lower end. same bottom end as before, but use iron heads and get them ported (exhaust port is what needs most of the work) and a larger exhaust valve installed. RPM airgap intake comp DEH275 cam 10:1 compression balanced bottom end, resized rod bolts etc hypereutectic pistons RPM airgap intake Zok/pro systems carb 380-400hp and it'll be an awesome street motor. it'll also cost you well under 6K dunno how old you are but it sounds like you are young, do not make the mistake of thinking you can outdrive everyone, horsepower and torque can get you into a lot of trouble very quickly, these are old cars, be respectful of what they can do. this coming from a dude whos got a driving record longer than most movie scripts too mind you. edit: if you wanted room to move upwards, build this with unported heads, you'll make 380hp, but then save up and down the track throw on a set of alloys and swap the cam and top end out, and presto you have another 100hp on top

horses for corses mate.... all comes down to $$$ as far as the bottom end goes, a 351 crank will be the cheapest option for getting extra CI, you already have long rods so keep them. cranks come up pretty often. if you want to spend the extra $$ and go a stroker, then by all means go for it, but just parts will be well over 2K + machining (they're nowhere near install finish when you buy them) PISTONS: do not be fooled, you can push clevo blocks to 30 thou on the early ones, but they have a tendency to run hot, keep the over bore to a minimum and if required get custom pistons to suit (should only cost another $200), do not make the same mistake everyone does and jump straight to a 30 thou overbore. get forged pistons off the bat so you know your safe. best bang for buck i would say is a set of CHI 2v heads, seeing as more and more people unfortunately seem to be having problems with AFD (which i have not had at all). otherwise you'd be looking at CHI 208s and the CHI dual plane manifold. swapping over to alloy heads really is the best thing you can do, and honestly something you should save up for. camshaft, the XE274H should produce 420hp with alloy heads and a good exhaust, the 284H should be well up over 450 (i think AFD claimed 480 with their heads and the XE284H cam) and the XE284H (would be my pick) will sound tits, a bloke uploaded vids to youtube of one see here: have a look through his other vids for driving sound etc the bottom end, get it balanced and the crank knife edged if you wanna take some weight out of it, get the rod bolts resized to suit ARP bolts, and if you really want to be safe, add a girdle from pavtek for cheap insurance (think they're around $300 last time i checked) standard rods will handle 7500rpm/600hp easily, same as the stock crank, just need to be prepped right. intake will depend on your head selection, but TFC's are the best high rise on the market for 2v heads, otherwise RPM airgap etc CHI intake for CHI 3v's carb: don't even bother with something out of the box, it'll cost less in the long run to get one spec'd from Zok racing carbs, or Pro Systems, but make this the last thing you buy, as every other component in the engine effects this. oil pump, change the pressure relief spring to a 70psi one. Exhaust 4>1 pacemaker, either 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers. kiss 8K goodbye.

is it 3/8th all the way back to the tank? or just 3/8th forwards of the pickup, i see it a lot when people put 3/8th line on a 5/16 pickup, pull the pickup out, clean the tank and chuck a new filter on the pickup while you're there. unless that all done already, then no point. no worries on the timing dude see how you go with that pump, if you want to stick to mechanical grab a RobbMc Performance fuel pump, those things are probably some of the best on the market.

sounds like either too much timing or its running lean. what size fuel line are you running?

what are you guys doing about the VSS pickup? that determines the pump pressure after all.... or are you just having it pumping at a constant RPM/pressure? brings me to a couple of questions, does anyone know what the line pressure is on a standard power steering system? has anyone removed the internal stops on the stock power steering box? so you can actually get full lock.

should make good power dude, i've seen that cam produce 430hp on an AFD headed clevo. awesome street cam too, good choice.

guess you have no idea how sensitive the sensors in new cars are.... you solder them, you get error codes galore.