matt_lamb_160

A few pics of the wheels on the wagon. 10x17 6mm offset. I've ended up with a little more guard clearance that I had expected so as it sits there's about 50mm of travel before guard rub becomes an issue. I'll slap a full tank of gas and some weight in the back and road test it is see how it goes... maybe a small spacer in the back might be in order, hopefully not as I'm happy with stance. (note: the current tyres are 275x40 slicks while I wait for 4 weeks for the actual tyres to arrive from over the puddle.)





 
8x17 235x45 are spot on for fronts.

I still don't know what I've got in the way of front and rear springs but given the overall diameter of the wheels are the same as standard I reckon it's been dropped about 40-50mm. Hopefully this is useful for anyone that might be getting mixed messages about running 10inch wheels on an otherwise standard setup, I know I did!

Gerg has already posted a good guide. & yes they get can expensive once your looking at over 250hp flywheel, they are only 140hp stock with carb,
Crow roller rockers will need 7/16" studs & guide plates, I'd go with Yella terra. I run the flat top polished version of Aussiespeed rocker cover, brought from Ron/Kustom bitz as well.
Key to power on Crossflow is head work, there is also a thread on xflow head porting in the Crossflow section, standard flow around 175cfm@.550", ported street head tend to be around the 205-215CFM@.550" quite a few ported heads tend to flow upto .550" then become harder to get higher lift flow. my CNC head flowed 236cfm at .550" & upto 250cfm @.650". A lower flowing head will need more camshaft duration to make similar power. Auto would be nicer for the strip,
 
My XF ute made 252rwhp rebuilt myself, balanced, 250 crossflow with hypertec pistons, resized rods with ARP bolts, C2 CNC ported head, 237@50 550" hyd cam, street terra rockers, crow moly pushrods, aussiespeed 4 barrel, QFT600 Vac sec, stock BW51 & regraphed XE/XF dissy (for now), 3.45LSD, figures say 10.1:1 Comp, still yet to race it after being tuned.
build thread below
 

This is a bit old now, but I run that Camtech cam in a turbo'ed 250 and ran it NA for a while. It is a perfect HWY cam with 2.92 or 2.77 gears and can be used with an auto and stock converter. It suits an otherwise stock setup. Std springs are even ok. I recon Camtech's cam below this one should have been std. Both are perfect for how Ford planned for a 250 to be driven and are nice for cruising around.
 
With a 5 speed and 3.23 gears I probably would go bigger (depending on what the car is used for) than the 208 cam, but no more than the 218 deg cam if it is a regular driver. The 14892 Crow used to be the go to cam.

This is a bit old now, but I run that Camtech cam in a turbo'ed 250 and ran it NA for a while. It is a perfect HWY cam with 2.92 or 2.77 gears and can be used with an auto and stock converter. It suits an otherwise stock setup. Std springs are even ok. I recon Camtech's cam below this one should have been std. Both are perfect for how Ford planned for a 250 to be driven and are nice for cruising around.
 
With a 5 speed and 3.23 gears I probably would go bigger (depending on what the car is used for) than the 208 cam, but no more than the 218 deg cam if it is a regular driver. The 14892 Crow used to be the go to cam.

This thread is quite old, but it caught my attention.
I have a 300ci factory EFI six in my 1971 F100. I transplanted it in 1998 - ousting the original 240.
It's a 4.9 litre, 4" bore with 3.98" stroke. Armour guard brought 6 into Queensland during Expo in '88. They were fitted into F250's. 
4 were ultimately crushed would you believe? Two survived - I have one and I believe the other went to a South Australian farmer who removed the EFI. 
Just though that may be of interest to some.
Cheers.

http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=4014

I have this setup in my xf.
 
Its easy to do, take an el loom and connect the 8 wires into the main xf wiring harness by the brake booster.  This will be basic switched power, oil lamp and coolant temp and kam (keep alive memory) and clutch.
 
Can then use a j3 chip and tuner pro rt to tune it.  If you have a moates quarter horse you can tune in real time too.
 
 
 
These two pictures describe it and taken from http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11173-eb-efi-management-to-run-an-efi-xflow-thread/
 
 
Am I allowed to post that without being vilified lol?
 

So...avgas ftw?
Haha
Seriously though thanks for the info, not above doing whatever work is necessary. But i am going to try the adaptor and 4barrel route first.
End goal is still efi itb's. But a lotto win or other windfall will be in order for that to happen.

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there's nothing meant to go in there.
i suspect, like the waterpump hole, it's designed to let the fuel out(coolant on the water pump) when they fail.. 
you'd need a new fuel pump is My suspicion., lucky it's not going into the sump, infact, you should check your oil, if it's thin or higher than it was.. change it also because it will be contaminated with fuel and not as good with lubrication but can also cause other issues if so.
@SPArKy_Dave will probably be able to confirm this
 

Agree totally with dean. Adding headers to this car will be a waste of time and money. It you are worried about originality, it is ruined as soon as the bonnet opens to. I suggest leave it as is or do a muffler swap only.
 
The headers will make almost zero difference to your power. The exhaust manifolds are not what limit these engines in stock configuration.

one of the best lessons i ever learned(most of the time...) is KEEP IT STOCK.
don't modify it. everything you modify costs more than you first thought/heard etc. especially if you need someone else to fit/tune it.
 
if i had that XC .. i'd leave it as is. 

for Me, on stock engine's i wouldn't even bother fitting extractors. 
just fit a bigger exhaust with sports muffler. 
one of the best crossflows i heard was still running the manifold with the pipe stepped up to 2.5" and ran with one straight through muffler.
you'll probably find it will lose bottom end power with the bigger exhaust, so maybe try just a 2 inch straight through muffler first(cheap also)

in My opinion extractors make no difference to exhaust sound other than you can hear more engine noise at the front. 
 
a sports muffler replacing the current one will be $100 fitted. cheaper than any extractors and your starter motor and accelerator cable etc doesn't get cooked(extractors get hot)

otherwise, wait for more replies, but if you only want it to sound better, that's what i'd do. (it won't go any better just by fitting extractors.. the manifold isn't a restriction on a standard engine)

Here is a side shot to show the extra clearance. It's about 1/2" less pump snout.




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Plus 1 for precision. They are doing a lot more direct selling now and they have good stuff at close to trade prices. 
 
Shop around and buy the components individually and you will save plenty. That camtech cam will work nice. Make sure you order the efi gasket set.  Even tho it's a stock rebuild, id put a rollmaster double row chain in it.  Precision sell JP gear sets and I'm not a fan. Ebay has rollmaster units at good pricing. 
 

Email Camtech.

Nope, the rod is shorter to allow a longer stroke. The engine we are talking about is 272 cubes.

Yeah, I am not sure about the pistons, something forged. Yes, definitely had an offset ground crank. It's weird the things you remember.

If you are planning to turbo, you are better off with stock or slightly longer than stock rods anyway. I would not use 200 rods, the benefit of the longer rods is for NA applications. There are pistons that exist for the AU rods that will work, but you will need to look. Just make sure the rod length + piston compression height add up to the same value as it does with the stock setup. If it is price that turned you off of the Spool rods, forget about 300hp NA + more later. If you have never driven a near stock crossflow and a decent sized turbo (say GT3582R) running 8-12 psi boost, you should try that first before committing to this build. 

Yeah, I am not sure about the pistons, something forged. Yes, definitely had an offset ground crank. It's weird the things you remember.

No, it had 265 Hemi rods. I think it was 272ci too.

Poly on the front half is an interesting idea. It still has to deform the poly in bump, but at least there is less poly to twist (fear of snapping the rod at the thread still puts me off somewhat). I think there are a number of options and I would have thought more companies building these kit would look at it (mind you, there are a number of US options).

Poly on the front half is an interesting idea. It still has to deform the poly in bump, but at least there is less poly to twist (fear of snapping the rod at the thread still puts me off somewhat). I think there are a number of options and I would have thought more companies building these kit would look at it (mind you, there are a number of US options).

BGDAVs XE has the RRS one, you'd never hear noise over the engine/exhaust but it's not clunky like i thought it might be. depends what you are doing with the car.. (no point fitting all the expensive race gear if stock stuff in rubber does what you want, i've proven that stuff is fine for 50,000kms a year time over several years.)