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matt_lamb_160

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Posts posted by matt_lamb_160

  3. Posted

    This is a bit old now, but I run that Camtech cam in a turbo'ed 250 and ran it NA for a while. It is a perfect HWY cam with 2.92 or 2.77 gears and can be used with an auto and stock converter. It suits an otherwise stock setup. Std springs are even ok. I recon Camtech's cam below this one should have been std. Both are perfect for how Ford planned for a 250 to be driven and are nice for cruising around.

     

    With a 5 speed and 3.23 gears I probably would go bigger (depending on what the car is used for) than the 208 cam, but no more than the 218 deg cam if it is a regular driver. The 14892 Crow used to be the go to cam.

    gerg and bear351c reacted to this

  4. Posted

    I had a list of chamber sizes somewhere on xfalcon, but Ford Man's numbers match my memory. I think you want a C1 or an E2 if you don't want to do chamber work. Your compression is already pretty high and I think a D will make it higher (especially if it needs a skim or has had one).

  6. Posted

    Agree totally with dean. Adding headers to this car will be a waste of time and money. It you are worried about originality, it is ruined as soon as the bonnet opens to. I suggest leave it as is or do a muffler swap only.

     

    The headers will make almost zero difference to your power. The exhaust manifolds are not what limit these engines in stock configuration.

    gerg reacted to this

  7. Posted

    The Camtech cam you are talking about is what I suggested.

     

    I doubt you will need new pushrods, retainers and locks. I also doubt you will need new valve springs, if you can check the ones you have and they are still ok I would use them. I have used std. pushrods, retainers, locks and springs with their 208deg at 50thou cam for years without issue (although I upgraded them when I added a turbo).

     

    Also, the cam would work perfect with 2.77 gears and an auto, so reconsider your gears. 2.92-3.27 would be my recommendation with a T5.

  9. Posted

    On ‎2‎/‎9‎/‎2019 at 6:12 PM, matt_lamb_160 said:

    Camtech do a 201 deg at 50thou cam that will work (CT142 509). Will be a strong cam with standard 2.77 or 2.92 gears, especially at highway speed. Probably aim at 9.5:1 compression and use good fuel. I always pick Camtech over Crow, but that is just me.

     

    PapouGhia reacted to this

  13. Posted

    On Tuesday, April 09, 2019 at 7:32 PM, gerg said:

    I'm struggling to understand why anyone would make an already undersquare engine even more so. Maybe more off-boost torque? Crank harmonics would also get worse with smaller journals and less overlap. Hardly worth the trouble if you ask me.

    Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
     

    Faster spooling and because you can. I wouldn't do it, but it is nice that people do try these things. Your points about the effect it will have on the crank are correct and are a turn off for sure.

  16. Posted

    Poly on the front half is an interesting idea. It still has to deform the poly in bump, but at least there is less poly to twist (fear of snapping the rod at the thread still puts me off somewhat). I think there are a number of options and I would have thought more companies building these kit would look at it (mind you, there are a number of US options).

    gregaust and gerg reacted to this

  17. Posted

    Just the front bush. Allows change in geometry under braking and relies on flexing the rubber/mount for bump travel. Yes it is reliable and does it flex that much under braking, maybe not. But out of the entire arrangement it is more of an obvious area of improvement than most other things addressed by these kits and I wouldn't be spending big everywhere else and leaving it as is. It's just a matter of replacing it with a proper joint.

    gerg reacted to this

  18. Posted

    If you are planning to turbo, you are better off with stock or slightly longer than stock rods anyway. I would not use 200 rods, the benefit of the longer rods is for NA applications. There are pistons that exist for the AU rods that will work, but you will need to look. Just make sure the rod length + piston compression height add up to the same value as it does with the stock setup. If it is price that turned you off of the Spool rods, forget about 300hp NA + more later. If you have never driven a near stock crossflow and a decent sized turbo (say GT3582R) running 8-12 psi boost, you should try that first before committing to this build. 

    Enkei74, XPT and gerg reacted to this

  23. Posted

    I think that the easier way is to build a 1FZ-FE. 275ci (and kits to take them to 311ci), 4 valves per cylinder, alloy head, 100mm bore, good ignition setup and ok parts availability  (although $$$).

    XPT, Mixalis and gerg reacted to this
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