Tweaker351

Hey guys the xd has been playing up a bit recently After driving for more than 30 mins sometimes it will just cut out and wont start again till it cools down a bit or just whenever it wants to fire up again.... Now before you ask its not a fuel problem, ive checked all that. So my next line of thought was maybe coil, so bought a new one and in the process of mucking around with it all ive taken the dizzy cap off and am a bit confused about the carbon bit in the middle that contacts to the rotor button...... In all the other dizzys ive played with the carbon bit(or whatever it is) sticks out a bit and is spring loaded so obviously has pressure on the rotor button at all times. Ive noticed on mine it is only just flush with the outside surround, but can still be pushed up inside a little bit from the spring. So my question is this normal? Has anyone got any pics of their MSD Pro Billet dizzy caps they can show me? Im hoping this might be the problem lol, lot cheaper than a new 6al box etc..... Oh and all this had only done max 1500k's since being installed so shouldn't really be worn out yet? Thanks all!

Thanks guys, well then I will grab a new pick up for it and see how she goes Its just a pain in the arse gremlin that I want to fix coz im too scared to drive it too far at the moment. Need her to be reliable for the nice weather coming up!

I know new bolts are cheap and all, but ive never bought a new set for a crossflow and have done heaps of crossie heads over the years. Ive never had a failure reusing the head bolts. If it was an ef-au etc I would buy new ones but not an old crossie, unless it was off its chops. I guess you would buy studs anyway....... Just my 2 cents, cheers.

Yeah that sucks mate, Lesson learnt hey. I learned the hard way too bro!

Just a thought, yes we all know thermos free up a bit of hp but surely its not as good as we think........ I wonder how much power the alternator is sucking when we turn our fans on anyway, surely its robbing some of the "gained" hp... I know on my cars you can hear the load on the alternator and feel the rpm drop a tad when the fans are switched on.... Just me thinking out loud

Yep forgot to mention that too lol. I run the comp cams additive when I do the cam run in also!

Good old penrite run in oil 10-40w for me. Havnt had an issue yet, I also use the joe gibbs lube when I build my engines. I Change oil after cam run in and then also about 100 - 200 kays of driving. Then about 500 kays of driving lol After that I usually change about 5000 max, only because my babies don't do a whole lot of kays so that is about the yearly quota Maybe overkill but ive never had a problem with any of my motors yet...... Fingers crossed

Dynotec are pretty much procomp rubbish. At racing world sells dynotec so pretty much says it all. Saying that i actually have a dynotec cam in my xd which is great, didnt know At racing world sold them when i ordered it through an engine builder lol

Heres me ZJ Heres my XD Heres my landcruiser LOL

12cc from memory mate, would have to check the box to be sure. Yep goes hard, lights up the 245's whenever i feel the need lol

Heres my zj after i built the 351 for it 351 with 302 heads. 10.5 compression with dished pistons and Big mutha thumper cam from comp cams. Bit of other gear in it too lol

Flat tops and closed chamber heads might be a bit too much compression........ Unless you get the heads releived a touch

Looks the part James! You should start selling them polished up!

WWWAAAAAAAYYYYYYY too hot for a clevo bro, not even the jap engines run that hot.........

82 degree tridon high flow. (180f)

Geeze i forgot the tongue.....knew i was doing something wrong. Will try tonight and get back to you tommorow

James DO NOT buy the chromed ones....... I guarantee they will leak eventually. For some bastard reason they warp a little over time and just dont seal properly, have had 2 and they both did it. Even sanded them flat with the speed file, tightened the bolts till i thought they would snap....... also did one on a belt sander and still end up leaking, dont know what it is but they just do it LOL. They come with the o-ring and agian ive used the o-ring, not used the o-ring, o-ring with silicone, o-ring with gasket and silicone, just gasket........You get the point Never ever had a problem with the alloy ones I reckon go alloy and polish it up since your such a gun on the buffer bro! Just my 2 cents

Yeah ill double check next time i go there if it says 86da Think the auto is still attatched so ill have to rip that off first lol

Or you can have this one, just needs a patch welded on LOL

Hey man what is the 86da block from? if its xf's i have one in my mums shed you can have, pretty sure she would be standard

Get a drill bit thats just big enough to make a hole in it nearly all the way through, but not dig into the crank. Drill it out then get a chisel and crack the bearing and it should just fall out.