Rod Racer

The headlight switch might be the culprit for the dash lights. If can find a good one to try, that might narrow down the issue. If the car has a towbar, check the connections where the trailer plug wiring taps into the factory harness. If they used scotch locks, it may have severed the tail light section due to age or vibration.

Yes that 3.45 xg diff was 28 spline and 075,when I traded the gears in at the diff shop he was quite eager to give good money for them.

075 / M75 gears sets have a 7.5" ring gear diameter, 078/M78 is 7 3/4" dia. They are NOT interchangeable and have different carriers to match. I have seen M75/075 carriers with 28 spline axles, however, these are rare.

075 / M75 gears sets have a 7.5" ring gear diameter, 078/M78 is 7 3/4" dia. They are NOT interchangeable and have different carriers to match. I have seen M75/075 carriers with 28 spline axles, however, these are rare.

Wash your mouth out...

I was planning on using the Hoppers Stoppers 13" brake kit with the twin piston PBR calipers and appropriate pads, covered by AU S1 XR wheels and spacers.
For a 'budget' brake set up, use good quality slotted rotors and the old Girlock calipers from XA and early XB falcons (with the wire retainer on the outside pad.) These calipers have a good sized pad to spread the heat and friction area really well. Metal king plus pads will give you good stopping power on the street with minimal fade, however, for track use, find something a little more aggressive. On various cars I found that in racing conditions, the places where brake performance matters is Sandown at the end of the front straight and Calder Park for the same reason, and from others experience, the Chase at Bathurst.

I was planning on using the Hoppers Stoppers 13" brake kit with the twin piston PBR calipers and appropriate pads, covered by AU S1 XR wheels and spacers.
For a 'budget' brake set up, use good quality slotted rotors and the old Girlock calipers from XA and early XB falcons (with the wire retainer on the outside pad.) These calipers have a good sized pad to spread the heat and friction area really well. Metal king plus pads will give you good stopping power on the street with minimal fade, however, for track use, find something a little more aggressive. On various cars I found that in racing conditions, the places where brake performance matters is Sandown at the end of the front straight and Calder Park for the same reason, and from others experience, the Chase at Bathurst.

I use Delta 40's, not 44's. 44's are race mufflers, whereas the 40 is quieter. I have the 3" resonator/Delta 40 2 chamber combo on my F truck and it's quiet enough to be ignored on the street.

IIRC, there is a sender is in the right rear of the cylinder head. However, the temp sender (I think) is in the thermostat housing.
Replace the gasket between the intake manifold and cylinder head AND the injector O rings and the miss(es) should disappear. There is an edge on the injector ports that can/will cut the O rings, so be careful inserting the injectors into those holes. Ask me how I learned that( the hard way).

50 ounce imbalance, not 58. I have several of these engines.😎

All factory 5.0L engines mid 1981 and later were 50 oz balance, both the earlier (pre '85) flat tappet and roller engines. 5.8L engines, flat tappet and hyd roller are still 28 oz.

Can confirm,
as I own an October 86' F250 302W, with factory flat tappet cam block, and v-belts.
Not sure on the balance spec's though.

You are correct, I probably should have spell checked

Yeah I'll do that just to be sure.
 
 
Yeah it did, I bought the transmission as "suit rebuild" and the convertor came with it. I fitted to the car and got 5000k's out of it before I had that and the engine rebuilt.
Was pissed off when the noise was still there so chances are there's something still faulty or I should have taken more care when putting it all together.
 

Fired her up today, no noise so definitely coming from the tranny. Waiting for some parts now to put it all back together.

Try something. Bolt the spacer plate, drive plate, and bellhousing back on and run the engine without the trans. Curious to know if there is any noise WITHOUT the auto.
 
Also, did it make the same noise prior to the auto rebuild?

May be contact with a buckled sandwich plate. Don't assume it's the correct flex plate, make sure.
 
Yes, undo the nuts and see if you have some movement in the convertor on the studs. Should have 2 - 4 mm movement, at least. More could be an incorrect flex plate (unlikely, but possible).

May be contact with a buckled sandwich plate. Don't assume it's the correct flex plate, make sure.
 
Yes, undo the nuts and see if you have some movement in the convertor on the studs. Should have 2 - 4 mm movement, at least. More could be an incorrect flex plate (unlikely, but possible).

My advice (hard earned) is to use the FACTORY tube and dipstick. Do NOT assume an aftermarket tube and dipstick will read correctly (almost all do NOT). I know this from bitter experience. The AOD in my F100 always spewed out fluid from the breather at the 'correct' level, until I sourced a factory Ford tube and dipstick, to find it was almost a quart overfull. Now, no more breather spillages and no more frothing fluid trying to exit the tube when checking.
Just my $0.02.

My advice (hard earned) is to use the FACTORY tube and dipstick. Do NOT assume an aftermarket tube and dipstick will read correctly (almost all do NOT). I know this from bitter experience. The AOD in my F100 always spewed out fluid from the breather at the 'correct' level, until I sourced a factory Ford tube and dipstick, to find it was almost a quart overfull. Now, no more breather spillages and no more frothing fluid trying to exit the tube when checking.
Just my $0.02.

Seems like these days there's not many people taking pride in their work, all they care is the $$$$$$.
See what happens, he did say if the noise gets worse come back to him, probably come up with some other BS excuse.
 
Did some research about transmission oil pissing out of the breather when stomping on the accelerator There are two possibilities I found which is overfilling (which is not the case for me) or transmission filter valve is missing.
 
This:

 
Which goes in this:

 
The spring is there but not the valve. Hopefully that will solve the issue once I get one.
 

Oh now that valve missing is a hug issue. How the hell did someone rebuild and leave that out? Just WOW !!!!!     With that missing it's a wonder it's not slipping.
 
As to oil level , be sure to verify the stick is correct. Run sting alongside tube and see where the "full" level is exactly 

With that valve missing , the guy clearly has no idea what he is doing. What else was done to valvebody? Makes me want to question if pressure reg valve is fitted right or what else he might of F___ked up

It's not unusual to have a lot of trash block the filter in rebuilt units.

I have such a harness. I'll have a look at it tomorrow, when I have a chance and make sure it's ok. It is a genuine V8 harness, not sure if the engine part is still there.