Bit of a thread revival here, anyway one I recently discovered was using old Christmas wrapping paper for masking up panels for painting. Had heaps of it laying around and it worked great.
Bit of a thread revival here, anyway one I recently discovered was using old Christmas wrapping paper for masking up panels for painting. Had heaps of it laying around and it worked great.
Evening all. I picked this up today. Let me know if the pics don't work.
She's an early dentside F250 4x4, commonly called the 'Highboy' option. She has a 351C and manual trans, lots of rust in the floors and a fairly clean engine compartment.
Keep searching for the slotted and dimpled rotors for the fronts as they are great, haven't had a problem with them on any of my cars so far and for the rears just go with some nice solid rotors as it usually isn't worth the extra expense to bother with fancy discs on the rear. As for pads I haven't heard anything bad about the ebc greenstuff pads personally so might be worth a look, that entire setup is what I'm planning on getting for my eb when funds allow it. Keep checking the online stores for discounts to save a heap of money too as Sparesbox and others usually have sales on brakes every other couple of weeks.
Keep searching for the slotted and dimpled rotors for the fronts as they are great, haven't had a problem with them on any of my cars so far and for the rears just go with some nice solid rotors as it usually isn't worth the extra expense to bother with fancy discs on the rear. As for pads I haven't heard anything bad about the ebc greenstuff pads personally so might be worth a look, that entire setup is what I'm planning on getting for my eb when funds allow it. Keep checking the online stores for discounts to save a heap of money too as Sparesbox and others usually have sales on brakes every other couple of weeks.
The Italian made Weber 34adm Carburetor, was factory fitted to XE/XF Falcon 6cyl, Ford F100-350's and Ford Bronco 6cyl.
It existed as factory fitment, from mid 1982, up till March 1993 - when the XF Falcon commercial range ended, and the XG Falcon was launched.
The stock 34adm carby, has a flow rate of 230cfm. (see flow test pic, further down)
For an easy upgrade, a 38/38 Weber carburetor has a 390cfm flow rate,
and bolts directly to the stock intake manifold.
The purpose of this thread, is to have Technical and Parts info for the Weber 34adm Carburetor, all in one location.
I will edit and add to this first post, as I find further info.
If anyone has any additional info on these carby's, they're most welcome to add it into the thread.
1. Throttle nudger: On the XE/XF Falcons this is used to hold the throttle open slightly during an overrun condition by applying vacuum at the hose fitting. The screw in the top sets how much the throttle is held open.
2. Accelerator pump accumulator: Receives the fuel charge from the accelerator pump and controls the discharge rate of the fuel into the air stream.
3. Fuel inlet fitting.
4. Fuel filter plug. There is a small plastic filter under this plug.
5. Fuel return. On some models this is used to return fuel to the fuel tank when item 6 (below) is fitted.
6. Fuel return solenoid fitting. On some models there is a solenoid screwed into this fitting that energises when the throttle is closed, allowing fuel to return to the tank when at idle.
7. Idle solenoid. Allows fuel to flow in the idle circuit when this solenoid is energised. +12 Volts must be applied to this solenoid when the ignition is switched on.
8. Power bypass circuit actuator diaphragm. Allows fuel to flow in the power bypass circuit when low manifold vacuum is sensed.
9. Accelerator pump lever.
10. Electric automatic choke mechanism. Under the green plastic cover there is a heater element and a bi-metallic spring. +12 Volts is applied to the threaded stud in the centre when the ignition is on. The heater element heats up and in time, causes the bi-metallic spring to rotate the choke shaft, causing the choke to open. Loosening the three screws allows the cover to rotate, to adjust the choke to the correct fully open position after warm-up.
11. Fast idle screw. Adjusts the fast idle speed. Operates whenever the choke is partially closed. There are several steps of fast idle due to the operation of a stepped cam inside the choke mechanism. Adjustment should be made for fast idle on the first step after a cold start. Do not use this screw to adjust the normal idle speed.
12. Choke pull-off diaphragm. Cracks the choke open slightly as soon as the engine starts. Under the small brass plug at the centre there is a grub screw that adjusts how much the choke is cracked open.
13. Accelerator pump. Pumps fuel into the air stream, via the accelerator pump accumulator, during hard acceleration.
14. Idle speed screw. Adjusts the idle speed. To be adjusted only after the engine has reached operating temperature, and the choke is fully open.
15. Vacuum advance connection. Connects to the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm.
16. Idle mixture screw. Adjusts the idle fuel/air mixture.
Stock jetting for 3.3l and 4.1l Crossflow Weber 34adm carburettor-
First stage Idle: 60
Second stage Idle: 70
Primary Fuel: 135
Secondary Fuel: 210
Primary Air: 160
Secondary Air: 160
The following jetting, apparently gives excellent throttle response, very smooth idling and excellent pickup on secondaries -
(stock 3.3l Crossflow Motor)
Weber 34ADM carburettors, have a 2 stage low speed jet solenoid.
This was an emissions control system, which allowed the engine to run with one jet size when cold (70)
and when the engine warmed up it switched to a smaller jet to reduce emissions (55).
As the idle jet vacuum solenoid ages, the little diaphragm inside fails allowing - fuel to flow from the primary low speed circuit through the failed solenoid
and into the line that supplies vacuum to the system.
This causes the engine to run super rich.
Products which can solve the problem can be found at the below links,
comprising of a larger jet holder, which deletes the solenoid and the appropriate jets to go with it.
You may need to mess around with the jets to find the right one for your engine
Here is a picture of the system on the standard carb
and of another of the carb, with the idle jet solenoid system deleted.
You will note all the vacuum ports except the vacuum advance are capped off, deleting the emissions control systems
(EGR etc).
This pic shows the throttle nudger, which is supposed to hold the throttle slightly open momentarily if the throttle is snapped shut suddenly to smooth things out.
On some models it may also have been supplied vacuum as an idle up system for air con etc.
The diaphragm can fail and cause a vacuum leak and most of the carb rebuild kits don't include this particular diaphragm.
The vacuum port for the power valve is in an odd place on these carbs and some off the shelf adaptor plates will blank it off causing the engine to run on the power valve all the time and run very rich.
The port is actually under the base plate and is not open to either of the carb barrels.
If this port is omitted, vacuum will not be supplied to the power valve or the accelerator pump boost diaphragm and the carb simply wont work properly.
If you look at the underside of the carb you will find the port (it might even be blocked with crud).
The port is located between the primary and secondary bores and continues up through base and into a tube in the carb body.
The tube also acts as a locating dowel and can sometimes become damaged and obstructed if the carb hasn't been assembled correctly at some stage in the past.
Further useful info can be found here -
http://www.mbs.id.au/tuning/Carburettors/Weber/34ADM.htm
There are five springs in total fitted in this carb. By process of elimination you can work out several of them but some are interchangable and if fitted incorrectly will cause mixture problems. So keep the springs with their correct counterpart.
Shown are the vacuum passages to the power valve diaphragm and the boost accelerator pump. When vacuum drops to a pre-determined level the power valve diaphragm is pushed into the power jet which opens the ball to allow more fuel into the main circuit. Also the loss of vacuum applies an extra amount of fuel to the accelerator pump circuit over and above what the accelerator pump diaphragm will deliver. This will usually occur when the second barrel is opened suddenly. The different spring length & tension will operate these devices at differing vacuum settings.
The vacuum to the power valve & accelerator pump boost diaphragms is supplied through this tube. The vacuum port continues down through to the base of the carb between the primary and secondary bores. The tube also acts as a location dowel. It is long enough to pass through the thick gasket and into the base. Now what can happen is that if you don't line up the dowel perfectly to the base and you attempt to tighten the base screws then the tube can be pushed further into its bore in the body of the carb. The end result is a blocked vacuum passage. This will result in a rich cruise mixer and a hesitation when the second barrel opens suddenly. To check that the passage is unobstructed, place you mouth on the tube and suck or attach a tight hose and suck on it. It should feel easy to suck through. If not then this is what needs to be done.
Remove the tube and the easiest way to do this is to stick a drill into the tube, then use a small pair of vice grips to grip it and twist it out. Cut a slot into the tube and then refit it back into the hole. Make sure the slot lines up with the vacuum passage and the tube protrudes through the thick gasket so it can line up with the base. The slot does not have to be as long as in the photo. If the tube is fitted at the correct depth, this mod would be unnecessary.
I have an auto flywheel that came off the block on the photos, as well as the starter motor and auto bellhousing. I can cut those pieces off that are holding the rear up and extend the frame to bolt to the rear of the bell housing.
I reckon a starting stand would be a handy thing to have if I am going to be playing with these motors.
Sure thing mate, time is tight with my routine but if you're in town and the planets align, and social interaction is no longer verboten then sounds like a plan.
Sydney OzFalconers have been quiet for a while now, life gets in the way I guess. We had a few small meetups and runs and it was a lot of fun.
Yeah, I spent way too much time over engineering this engine stand today 😁
So the plan is that we can drop the new motor into the stand,and then lift it all into the back of the Dmax and ratchet strap it to the four corner tie down points in the back. Then I can put the tonneau cover over it.
The bloody thing is built from some heavy RHS I had laying about. I guess I could change it into an engine start stand later.
Follow the directions that came with the gasket, materials and methods change over time so use what directions they provide with their product. Make sure you use new bolts too as they are tourqe to yield bolts meaning one use only, if you haven't already got new bolts consider buying arp head studs as you will save money in the long run by being able to re-use them over and over, I'll definitely be get them next time I do a head gasket.
Follow the directions that came with the gasket, materials and methods change over time so use what directions they provide with their product. Make sure you use new bolts too as they are tourqe to yield bolts meaning one use only, if you haven't already got new bolts consider buying arp head studs as you will save money in the long run by being able to re-use them over and over, I'll definitely be get them next time I do a head gasket.
Follow the directions that came with the gasket, materials and methods change over time so use what directions they provide with their product. Make sure you use new bolts too as they are tourqe to yield bolts meaning one use only, if you haven't already got new bolts consider buying arp head studs as you will save money in the long run by being able to re-use them over and over, I'll definitely be get them next time I do a head gasket.
He left the town an is gone they will be speaking to all who’s cars he worked on They are re mbursing me for his shit which is good for me an even stated that when l take another car in for a roady they will only charge me 3/4 of what it costs
if it has solid discs, it will be an E series diff(or XG)
if it has vented discs that you cant remove without pulling an axle out it will be pre XD(XC and possible XB)
if it has vented discs that can come off (one screw retains them) once the caliper is removed, and the caliper is Cast Iron, it will be XD diff.
if it's got vented discs and alloy calipers, it will be XE or XF diff.
that should be enough to id it.
EB onwards series also have a round flange for the tailshaft to bolt on, where upto EA had the 2 straps over the uni joints.
Does it have an aftermarket security system installed? If you still have the previous owners number try asking them if theres a hidden killswitch somewhere, other than that you'll probably have to start tracing along the wiring looking for a fault
No it isn't. Its a general gauge of 6 pipes together. Each cyl can run 4points difference. Think about that.
Heat signature on the earth strap,colour and condition on top of the body before the threads.Colouring on the porcelin. But reading em has to be done with new plugs and directly after a WOT pull with no idle time.
There are afew options for wiring but the simplest way I've heard is ring(don't email as they won't get back to you) Haltech and tell them what your doing and they will work out a loom for you, they make of the shelve stand alone looms for barra's now so it shouldn't be as pricey as it used to be. Also have a read through the members builds section as there are afew conversions in there that will help you with your project
There are afew options for wiring but the simplest way I've heard is ring(don't email as they won't get back to you) Haltech and tell them what your doing and they will work out a loom for you, they make of the shelve stand alone looms for barra's now so it shouldn't be as pricey as it used to be. Also have a read through the members builds section as there are afew conversions in there that will help you with your project
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