351XD_Fairmont

Grab an au gas engine and have a tinker around with it, would be good to see someone document a build up of an old intech engine

Where did you get the lifting brackets your using from?, seem much better then the factory ford ones.

Keep searching for the slotted and dimpled rotors for the fronts as they are great, haven't had a problem with them on any of my cars so far and for the rears just go with some nice solid rotors as it usually isn't worth the extra expense to bother with fancy discs on the rear. As for pads I haven't heard anything bad about the ebc greenstuff pads personally so might be worth a look, that entire setup is what I'm planning on getting for my eb when funds allow it. Keep checking the online stores for discounts to save a heap of money too as Sparesbox and others usually have sales on brakes every other couple of weeks.

Great information here Dave, maybe this and other such technical articles like your btr one could be put in a restoration sub forum or a stickied thread for easy finding?

If they sent the wrong kit contact them and ask them to send the correct one along with a self addressed parcel so you can send this one back, that usually works but if not say you'll cancel payment and name and shame them for incompetence/dodgy business practices. That's why I pay with PayPal wherever I can as when stuff like this happens and they can't be bothered to fix the situation I can just cancel payment.

Follow the directions that came with the gasket, materials and methods change over time so use what directions they provide with their product. Make sure you use new bolts too as they are tourqe to yield bolts meaning one use only, if you haven't already got new bolts consider buying arp head studs as you will save money in the long run by being able to re-use them over and over, I'll definitely be get them next time I do a head gasket.

What a dodgy cunt, I hope they reported him otherwise he'll just get another job somewhere else and start all over again, if the workshop was smart they'd contact everyone they suspect he ripped off to take him to court for everything he has, people would eventually see some of their money back and the workshop might be able to keep some of those customers

Who said it was the abs to start with? If they worked on it beforehand I'd be worried it was them that swapped out that bleeder causing the issue to get more work out of you(assuming it was a shop). Either way track down who is at fault for that bleeder and give them and their employer an earful, can't have dumbass's working on stuff as important as brakes endangering peoples lives.

I'll start by saying I'm no expert on the subject but I'd guess the rock hard pedal would be caused by a problem with the master cylinder, as for the air in the line since you say its only in the one I'd be checking for a crack in the line itself or perhaps the fitting going into the abs module. Hopefully this helps or someone else more knowledgeable responds.

Sounds interesting to say the least grommet, do you know what year it was? Sounds like someone on the floor that day made an end of model special at the ford plant

Yeah gregs right the build plates only say 4 speed floor shift, so to do the letters you get from ford(not that their known for their accuracy). One of mine a factory 351 manual has a toploader and from the inside it all looks factory but I highly doubt it

Does it have an aftermarket security system installed? If you still have the previous owners number try asking them if theres a hidden killswitch somewhere, other than that you'll probably have to start tracing along the wiring looking for a fault

There are afew options for wiring but the simplest way I've heard is ring(don't email as they won't get back to you) Haltech and tell them what your doing and they will work out a loom for you, they make of the shelve stand alone looms for barra's now so it shouldn't be as pricey as it used to be. Also have a read through the members builds section as there are afew conversions in there that will help you with your project

I know you already said you changed them but perhaps the relay for the high speed circuit isn't hooked up right or the connections aren't contacting properly

Have you tried plugging in another set of fans to see if its not just that the ones yours using are faulty? Simple enough to check if you have access to another set, just put them close enough that they can be plugged in and see if they work properly, if nothing else it will confirm that the problem isn't with the fans your currently using.

Where's grommet, someone mentioned a Cartier

18 hours ago, dex said:

Wait for it 

3 hours ago, Mixalis said:

 

Going to beat everyone in to it, make sure it’s a standard volume oil pump not high volume !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ha ha, ando will be here soon boys don't worry, gotta love how we all instantly knew what the joke was

Bit of a thread revival here, anyway one I recently discovered was using old Christmas wrapping paper for masking up panels for painting. Had heaps of it laying around and it worked great.

I thought the utes all used the same cable, oh well the more you know

Yeah it'll fit mate you just need an adapter for the brake line as they're metric and the xd is imperial

Weren't all v8's disk brake as standard in xd's or was that lsd?

Your best bet would be to call an auto electrician and get a stand alone harness made or you could look for someone to make one on Facebook, there are a fair few people on there that make them

No worries Searley and as ESPSIX said above the holes are blocked of to promote even flow throughout so opening them up isn't a good idea. It should last until you can get a mls gasket(I bought the permaseal branded kit recently with no problems) and remember the head bolts are torque to yield items so can only be used once, after that it's straight in the bin with them so always get new bolts with your head gasket or alternatively you can get some arp head studs and reuse them as many times as you like and although their a bit more expensive they pay for themselves after your second gasket change. 

Yeah they block off some of the smaller passages mate so don't worry about it although if your going through head gaskets you should change to a mls gasket as they are much better, should probably check the head hasn't warped either if you haven't already. Also what's up with the capitals on all your words, some strange spellcheck issue maybe?

Quick somebody buy the kit and write a review so we can all start saving up our tax returns, oh I mean car parts funds. But seriously the price doesn't seem that bad considering what rrs charges for theirs, and I know what you mean about them being hard to get a price from I had to ring them for a quote and it was ridiculous what they wanted for even the base model front set-up.