351XD_Fairmont

Good information in here Dave and great work sharing it, should help alot of people out.

I don't think the problem your having is caused by the smartlock as it sounds like the gas system wiring might be a bit dodgy, I'm not positive but I think ford kill switches turn power to the injectors off so if that's the case it should still crank, once again not positive just a thought. Also if it happened the way you described and is losing power to the switch I'd be betting it's an earth wire that's not grounded properly, probably been knocked lose from all the hits to the dash

They come with good printed instructions that will get you through it but if not there's a good chance someone has a video on YouTube of the particular model you purchase, they've got some reviews that are usually worth a look aswell. They're usually just a Phillips head or torx head screw.

I know what you mean mate I've got Sony Xploud stereos in most of my cars with various brand speakers and they all sound great but the displays do annoy you.

Yeah twin plate mate, the newer style ones made by exedy and extreme for example

Don't know anything about long style clutches sorry but have you looked at any multi plate clutches, the ones I've seen are a bit expensive but seem to be good. Also with the toploader check out renegate shifter's sequential shifter, I'm definitely going to be getting one for mine(eventually), it eliminates the problems caused by the standard linkages and makes gear shifts and spirited driving much more enjoyable

I'm making one out of an old zk fairlane that was cut just behind the gear shifter hole so the dash/pedals and everything foreword are there. Also tinkering with an engine cradle/trolley made from an ed falcon k-frame, just welded on some C channel and other scrap steel to mount some casters and looking at adding stub axles for a some full size wheels when moving around the backyard. I've got afew k-frames so hopefully I can put some of the engines/transmissions I've got on them so I can move them around much easier

Yeah looks like their for a horn to me, you'll have to hook up a spare and see if it works

Hey Steve sounds like a good project and I'm in a similar position as I'm trying to decide what to do with my 87 ghia as the crossflow in it is very tired. I'm either going to throw the 250 and auto out of a zk in it while I build a stout crossflow for it or drop a 4litre with a btr in and just enjoy it. Mines just going to be a cruiser with abit of grunt though so not as far as your planing, you will benefit greatly from the correct diff ratio choice with any combo you choose

So did it end up being 1/4" NPT or 1/2" Unf? Have seen pictures my uncle or someone took from an old car show of a hotrod with a gauge there before

Yeah if you get them out tell us how, I tried everything short of drilling them out and only managed to twist the heads off

Supercheap do it in the pressure packs in-store, got a couple not long ago. One of the lads there said if I needed more for a bigger job they can get a tin of it, not sure if he meant they'd order it or mix it up

Ha ha, I laugh every time I hear that, best was probably Margot Robbie reading it out in the tweet about herself

Go the green, should be a good build for you

Knew about the A but I always thought the B meant Balanced? Learn something new everyday

Just out of interest whats the going rate for hot tanking where you are mate?

Yeah no worries mate, I've been going through the threads over on xfalcon on and off trying to find the old thread

Hey guys I'm trying to find the old thread on the Cleveland engine block modifications, I'm hoping it wasn't on xfalcon as that's seemingly gone forever, I've done a search on google and came up with nothing so I'm hoping someone here has it bookmarked like I thought I had. It had info and pictures of what to do to the block ie the oil mod and opening up the hole around the dizzy. If this is ringing any bells for anyone please reply as I'm starting to think I might have dreamt it all up

Yeah it had alot of stuff like that, I think whoever created it took info from alot of other threads and compiled it into the one thread, I'll check it out and see whats there

Also there's no need for xg engine mount chassis plates for an au engine unless you're going to use a log manifold instead of the bbm that's already on it. Xg's only had them so the log manifold would clear the strut tower whereas the with the bbm theres no such problem

Did you get the block hot bathed or what? It came up pretty clean by the looks of it.

Can't really tell from the pictures myself but could it be part of a piston gudgeon pin?

Have you got any pictures of removing the old seal from the timing cover? I've been told before how to do it but mines either baked into the cover or I'm just hopeless as it will not come out

I'd try cutting half of it out and checking clearance before removing the whole thing. By the looks of it you'll only need to remove around half and will have the clearance needed, nice setup too mate

Hey guys I stripped afew exhaust port threads a while back and after blowing a head gasket thought I may aswell fix them while I've got the head off, so just seeing what size to use as not sure, also would there be any point in doing them all at once? cheers in advance.