deankxf

i wonder if i can make a ricer mist jet for the windscreen washers.. "purge" at traffic lights.. wash the windows as the commodore races away

good to see you are getting into them again.. i spoke to the carby bloke i used.. he said to check your linkages will work on that new carby will work in the car and he can rebuild it for $350 ish depending what's wrong with it. he showed me on the weber book he has that even a 32/36 weber is suited to as small as a 1200 engine if the ports in the head are individual(not siamese like mini or holden etc) when i went to ask about My 32/36 carby i am using on the gemini., he said if it needs reco, it's better value to buy new (with a choke that mine was missing). but turns out it was fine, and My dyno tune ended up the same price as a new carby and no tuning...(much better after the dyno tune)

what's the "parts ute" condition? paint it red, stick on some outback stickers? AU engine ? no rego required perhaps(for testing obviously)

aka, wanted to keep it original looking

does it fit a falcon battery in it or only the skinny 4cyl types

interested in this.. it would be the cheap option for more power (stealthy if mounted under the manifold also) would be nice on the gemini what's the ring gap rule? don't you need wider gaps?

there is a rubber grommet that goes in the radiator, just so it has a little give for vibration. then the bolt goes through that into the brackets. there are nut and bolt shops that could give you nuts for those ford bolts easily if you were making your own mounting plate I don't have access to an XG, @SPArKy_Dave @Outback Jack @hendrixhc may be able to take a photo of the top mounts for you maybe.. from experience, i'd say any exhaust shop could make up a suitable mount in about a slab of beer time.... but in Tassie, not sure what's there @Mr Polson might be able to give some guidance depending where you are. if it was here, i'd have it mounted using push bike parts i found on hard rubbish with a bit of fuel hose for a grommet.. but then, for $50 odd you could probably buy the parts missing from a wrecker and have an exhaust shop weld in a patch for the drivers side hacked out section(exhuast shops are more likely to do small jobs compared to a panel shop for eg)

the top left is missing it's bolt in mount, that side is easy. that's for an XG radiator.. for AU, no idea sorry... i remember test fitting one 15yrs ago approx and it was easier to get a new correct XG one for some reason the top right(drivers side) i'd just make a plate and put a bolt through whats there and another through the radiator

the top XG mounts bolt on/in . got a photo of whats been cut? you'd need to chop an awful lot out to make it gone i'd think

easier than it sounds.. almost easier to become one yourself

yeah that is smart thinking, i'm a big fan of the CNC porting with this in mind(wonder how much they allow for core shift?, the black clevo heads were better for porting for this reason)

were scrap heads sacrificed for to see where the water lives? or is this a result of keeping port size and having great skill in the valve/pocket area

ahh yes, that then should only need to be the inlet valves to overcome boost? or does the exhaust get back pressure behind the valve also

as far as i know, to prevent valve bounce. why do they put heavier springs on boosted engines?

that one sounds more like an earth.. if the one going from engine to body is off(near the left middle bell housing bolt to firewall after you forgot to undo it on engine removal.. 4 times ) could also be the earths near the headlights

if you ask anyone ... they'll tell you to use 96 fuel.. or better. (plus octane booster even) you can get far more timing in, and compression ratio for better power for essentially free(doubt the fuel used per year difference would be justifyable at all)

if you can tear them by hand .. you know they aren't serviceable.. (aka good for use)

time for new hoses throughout .. i've cooked 2 engines due to hose issues in the last 25yrs.. and a mate of mine has done the same, but they were a magna and a pintara so it didn't matter.

LSD will turn in the same direction. should be good on this part of the question

XF calipers are the same as XE rear disc calipers, with bastard pins and slides. the EA EB ED series(XG and XH also has EA EB ED) had a similar hand brake setup as above but the mounting was completely different (aka Better)

those solid brakes are Eseries,(EA EB ED) or XG XH if you end up looking for kits for them. the others are pre XE, (if rotor comes off the axel when axel is still in Diff it will be XD .. others needed the axel removed. you've now convinced me to pull the back off My diff i bought.. because the brakes were all shagged from sitting outside.. i'd thought the super clean oil would mean the gears fine. but i now expect similar.

if you've had the dash out, check the earths behind the kick panels also, one used to go on the dash bracket, but i ended up screwing it separately with a tek screw because i was having issues. check what the others have said also. the one Mr Polson suggested runs the power for the whole car, if it's tripping out you'd lose nearly everything

cant remember.. 12 options to try.. think it was an intake one though so that narrows it to 6.. and i think it was one of the back 3,.. and not the last one.. so either cyl 4 or 5 inlet.. bobs your unlcle..

or on petrol missing a lifter shim on one rocker..

worn out XG XR6 on lpg... close enough?