deankxf

can see the FATNESS of the koni and the pedders, this makes all the difference, CONTROLLING THE SPRING. the white pedders i've had in a standard height car and they are great for stock height upgrade in my opinion bump steer city,. if you drive it in Melburbs and on the highway it will not be a pleasure to drive compared to LOWS. (also looks too low to Me also)

some people like to drive their cars

King Lows with crap standard shocks ots very likely hitting bump stops .if the bump stops have been cut its likely bottom out the shock also

what height are the new kings? LOW or Superlow (2" sounds like low which should drive well) some wheel aligners wouldn't even guarantee the tyres wouldn't scrub with superlows fitted back in the day. did you check all other parts of the suspension also and get a good alignment (ideally pedders in my experience )

the rears are fine with standard shocks the fronts are best with big bore lowered shocks (ultima brand on ebay are the cheapest that seem to be ok) i've always used second hand big bore pedders and loved them, koni even better if you have the budget. what springs did you fit? cutting stock springs = in the bin buy king or pedders etc, you don't end up with much bump stop clearance with even LOW springs (approx 2" ) and Super Low you'll have to cut the bump stop down a bit also in most cases. . super lows = bump steer, (handles like a billy cart in my opinion) so LOWs are the lowest i ended up going in the end. lowering blocks in the back are fine at 2" generally with no issue with standard shocks.

i know when i did those slides i wouldn't have had anything other than wheel bearing grease or never seize (silver stuff) and from memory that's what i used (silver anti seize) Just make sure they slide in the holders easily (they get like a slot worn in them being alloy, i remember ditching one of the retaining clips once and just letting it sit there held by the pins) anti seize the pins also, make sure they slide easily. if the rubber hose from the diff to the caliper is original and 40yrs old it could be the issue also, swelling under pressure and not bleeding back (i guess if you wanted to risk it, swap it left to right, but these can also be the source of much pain in the backside undoing the rusty nuts on the line) I got charged $400 once due to "getting a mechanic" to do the job because i didn't want to.. i told them i'd have bought another diff if it was that hard and had a go at them (was a weeks wages back then). they said it was the worst day of their lives lol..but it's fixed now properly with warranty. grr i never had issues again at least

it should be in the gregorys manual, i don't have one available, and i haven't ever pulled one of these apart. @SPArKy_Dave may help. i feel your pain, i preferred drum brakes after dealing with these.

@Seamus just fixed his with My guidance in his thread. check out this page on his thread, (toot toot chugga chugga big red car) feel free to make a how to thread out of all the info and i'll make it a sticky (i don't have time, but basically everything is covered in that link including bad solder joints likely with yours as ZKFAIRLANE mentions in there

yeah now you mention it, i broke my first pointy nose pliers turning in the piston on one, then got the correct tool and broke that also (had to fix it, then screw the piston in the correct rotation )

they are the most asshole of any of the ford calipers the handbrake levers often seize up also. @SPArKy_Dave may know where to get the kits and the tool also for winding them out i've always had enough spares i've swapped them(15yrs ago was the last one) i think i traded 6 crap ones for 2 reco ones once also.

yes, it screws back there's a tool for it, but at a pinch i've used multi grips and or the square ends of a normal plier set to slot in the notches to turn it. i have a feeling left and right are turned in different directions (left hand thread on one i think) @Mr Polson may be able to confirm and link to the tool

its the same caliper as an XE XF fairmont ghia ZK or ZL fairlane would be the best to search for probably or FD FE LTD those bolt hex's if you turn them and they don't turn the bush in the caliper mount they should come out. (grab with vice grips and twist and pull is best with heaps of spray where they go into the slide) asshole of things, i've cut them off in the past(when i had spares) here's what they look like removed from the caliper bracket and fitted back into the slides

i'd find another motor, can't be that hard to find another if i get a chance i'll type how to fix wiper park position into youtube, i'm sure it's been an issue before

there must be an electrical connector that does something in the "park" position but i've never pulled one apart to see how they work

as Thom said above there's a uni joint that's 2 different sizes for this application

V8 diffs had same uni size in my opinion, if borg warner but i only knew that FMX came in things with 9" diffs which would take the different uni(there's a few different sizes with them also though) no idea if FMX/top loader only used 9" from factory. but there's ways around it with the custom uni joints as the cheaper way (modded tailshaft another, possibly different size uni in the yoke available? )

you can get a hybrid uni joint to go both sizes, i think (can't remember) the EB to EL wagon tailshaft used the same uni's as the FMX but then if you are keeping the original 6cyl diff then you'll have the same issue at the diff end. i'd look into the uni joint that is for both sizes, can't remember what they are called, unless @Thom can think of a better way to do it

much easier also if you do make it go bang or just want to swap ratios by way of slapping in a whole diff. (common ratios EB to EL had are 3.08, 3.23 /3.27 and 3.45 for the XR6)

I'm going to hope someone remembers better, but i had an XC GS for a few weeks about 30yrs ago(add that to another car i should have kept) it had the 3rd type in black in My memory and the dome was rattly loose (I could have silastic them to stop the rattle if i'd known) i chose to keep My plastic caps over them due to the loose cap domes. I basically flipped that car for the same price I paid after swapping wheels with bald tyres and a few other things. (i drove it, didn't like it compared to My XE, so sold it again)

if you do get one and it's too long or short or the wrong shape and you decide to cut it (i have done) BEFORE YOU CUT it scribe or file or grind a line across the length so you don't end up with it welded on an angle or it will be no good in the bushes etc. (exhaust shop could weld it no issue or whoever does your roof welds

yeah no idea why i couldn't find them, maybe marked as NEW I agree, this one looks correct where it bolts to the trans, but the rod being bent like that, not sure. i had to cut and weld one once because i mixed n matched rods with the older and or newer shifter and or different trans. maybe @SPArKy_Dave can recall any differences? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/275449225242?hash=item40220da01a:g:vLYAAOSwPkljFwtM

i couldn't find them on ebay, you'll need the metal plate on the end because the column shift used a different doover onto the box that links to the chassis rail. how much have you got on the T bar linkage you have? got the bolt/nut thing on it also?

BW40 in XE and XF or does yours have a 35? i think they are same anyway, i see you've got the early XE or XD handle type, (not the XF style) try Scott at XDF wreck if you need to buy one, https://www.facebook.com/Xdfwreck likely be heaps cheaper if he has one it's going to look like this or similar, got a link to the ebay ones?

you could probably make an XF one fit, can't remember if they are different but they'll be much easier to find try Scott at XDF wreck if you need to buy one, https://www.facebook.com/Xdfwreck it's not still connected to the shifter is it? or the trans?

when i did mine about 20yrs ago, i'd have used aviation gasket cement on both sides of the gasket (paranoid) yeah nothing is holding it on other than the roll pin on the selector shaft to the gearstick housing otherwise. i'd remove the speedo drive just to be sure it doesn't snag on something. (if it's XD XE XF etc. prior will be cable and needed removing to get the box out of car) it might have dowel pins, that are keeping it tight on the box i can't remember.