deankxf

They will work but not be working properly as far as I know. ( my brother had an eb series 1 with auto ecu due to the 5 speed conversion was from an EA centrepoint injection car so he couldn't use that ecu) I think the main issue is it will idle at higer revs

did he change the fuel pump? if not, that's the only way fuel can get in the oil as far as i know . check your oil level OFTEN if the fuel pump wasn't changed.

copy the side that works i guess

i've moved the pivot point for the inner handle i think on rear doors twice (to take up slack) have the rods been fitted wrong? is it meant to have a kink in it? 5cm is miles out, haven't got the left handle in the right door etc?

what tyres and suspension is it running? i liked zero deg camber, and 2mm toe in can't remember the castor @SPArKy_Dave probably has the same ideals if he remembers

crossflows will run with sand in the oil, but it's not ideal on a rebuild spec

Woo! radiator leak accessible? might be an easy repair for a radiator shop. got to love it when it starts easy and runs smooth

this to Me points to fuel pump leaking fuel into the oil (fairly common back in the day) could try change the fuel pump next. if the petrol is getting in the oil, it can evaporate and go into the carby (too rich) as vapour and make the engine run rough (with air cleaner lid fitted) (if it runs better with the lid removed, this could be a good diagnoses of fuel in oil causing the running rough, other than fouled plugs ) remove plugs, wire brush and refit, run with the air cleaner lid removed.. if it runs good, change the fuel pump ASAP some small amount of fuel in the oil(from today's run) will clear up on it's on, but if there's lots, you would be advised to change the oil again to minimise risk of bearing damage from compromised oil.

rear grab handles? i could have told you that (i remember removing them on something

Great to see an update! definitely good progress and a good plan. that cable end kit looks a great idea

in the current episode, i skipped through it a bit, he was talking about buying a property somewhere that he can store and rotate his cars through. (sounds like he plans do drive them all)

peter Anderson (youtube) latest video has bought a ZK fairlane and it has this cupcake tray also

OOOHH I had this issue once also then. i didn't pick it, i didn't have many cars that had this style seat, and once i got over the fact they weren't a "head rest" and the Girl Friend at the time fit her pony tail knot in the opening, it was the best thing ever invented apparently. if they marketed it as a pony tail void, they'd sold double the amount lol

baking tray for cupcakes?

We are always interested in what the solution was, it can help the next person. even more so if you can remember his diagnosis procedure. eg, has good battery, engine cranks fast enough, checked for strong spark at plugs, how he'd check for flooded or no fuel. and so on. once you know, it applies to lots of things. why the whipper snipper won't start after 6 months with stale fuel in the shed (drain the fuel, put fresh fuel and run it mid/off season, same for anything 2 stroke particularly )

it was running, then wasn't so i can't see the timing being out(unless messed with) if it has spark, it should just work

if it has spark, it really should fire unless it's fouled plugs or flooded (too much fuel) before you call a mobile mechanic(guessing $200 min charge? min) you could remove the spark plugs and take a look, if they are wet (flooded) leave them removed for a few hours if possible, fuel will evaporate or black/rust, try wire brushing them, and refitting (wire brush them if wet from too much fuel also) if you've been cranking it and cranking it, it's likely flooded, especially if pumping the accelerator pedal

if it fires with a spray of something in the carby top(even WD would do it etc) then it's fuel supply issue. can be many causes, check the fuel hoses don't have cracks in them, sucking air instead of fuel is something i've seen a few times on XD to XFs and that was 15yrs ago.

BGDAV has these in his XE, the lower control arm bush hole is too small for XE XF (had it drilled out to whatever size they are meant to be ,14mm rings a bell?) they are very very strong and heavy units, and pretty well priced it seemed at the time (factoring in putting new quality ball joints and bushes in factory arms)

it's still going to have the clicky click issue with a new battery most likely, arcing/tarnish on the solenoid contacts internally

starter on an XF is probably the easiest car in the world to remove, 2 mounting bolts, fat cable from the battery and the trigger wire if it works when you tap on it, then it's the common "cheaper to replace" but fixable issue the later starter motors work. gear reduction type. personally if there's a local auto electrician that rebuilds them i'd have it rebuilt, in My opinion they last heaps longer than the newer ones (new ones are lighter with gear reduction offering more power and lighter/smaller package) if you have to hold it in park to start it, this is adjustable from memory (try it in neutral first) could just be worn shifter bushes etc making the adjustment out. @SPArKy_Dave might make it simpler to understand

if it has an airflow meter (assume so? mates EL V8 does) i'd start there, try cleaning it with some spray or borrow/swap another in. i had this with the pulsar i had a few years back, (same type but smaller size) otherwise, @SPArKy_Dave and @Thom are the resident EFi 5litre gurus may reply later with more to check

bumping this for new members

I can't advise any oil pressure numbers, it's likely listed in the gregorys etc though, feel free to start a project thread to document anything you do in the build. i could retitle this thread as your own even if it's mostly crossflow related @SPArKy_Dave may have more info, as he does checks like this due to being more meticulous. (I've either got someone to reco a full engine or chucked in a second hand one, and that's usually not oil pressure related, just extreme wear overall)

looks to be some decent thread there still if you can stack a couple of good washers on the outside of the selector arm and then fit a new nut where the ok threads are.