deankxf

what car is it going in? if ZJ, it will read the speedo 20% faster if its a 10 pulse transducer.(depending on gear fitted and diff ratio)

yeah its fidly, i just tested the XF one using this method (black =negative, white = signal, and the other is 12v+) rotating the speedo gear a full rotation showed a voltage(2ish) then 0 volts 10 times so that should help..

just went scrounging and found some senders. part number on yours doesnt match ford ones i have here.. seen in pic below [/url]

is the wire cover red or black?(assuming its from ford) i have no idea on part numbers. red = XF onwards, (10 pulse per tailshaft rev) black = XD or XE (8pulse per tailshaft rev)

from my memory(havent seen an XE heater box in ages) the vacuum motors that open the flaps etc are in the same spot and do the same as the XF. hook them into the same spot and it will probably work(i dont know what the ZL/Ghia blend motor does as i bin that part of it as i dont like the ghia dash) what you might be able to do is fit the XD/XE back cover of the heater box to the ZL heater box? if so, it will be all as XE.

mine played up with Tassie gas.. whether it was just coincidence i dont know

cant assume too much with ford.. my brain is in off mode.. might try make a tutorial on how to check it later

i would guess so. if you know which side is + and which is neg, you should be able to earth the multimeter neg on the body, and probe the demister in different places till you see where its broken? i would assume

i was thinking that sounds crap.. till i remembered my tassie bill was about that.. 400km for $60 (can do 400km for $40 here) on gas.. your petrol billl is redonkulous. 17 litres per 100km on petrol is poor, could get closer to 10 litres i think in one of them.

what gas system is on it? impco or something else

adrianphu123 is either a mind reader or a copy cat from the future lol

some people have hooked them to the starter motor trigger(i dont like this because if it doesnt start it can flood with gas... you can check if its flooded by turning the gas off if it has a switch?) it may have a separate primer button in the car, turn ign on, pressing the button releases some extra gas, and then fire it up.

they've set that up as a primer i would assume it only kicks in when its powered up(some have set these to supply extra gas on start up so check where the wires go on that solenoid you have circled

could pour warm water over the converter and if it starts fine, you know its the converter. when in good condition gas shouldnt be an issue in the cold.. mine was cross firing the other morning from moisture on the cap and leads etc.. thats tune related, of which they are way overdue(been on the car 18 months, but came with the motor that sat under a tree for 3 years prior)

never tried this stuff but its meant to re join broken tracks in the demister. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Rear-Window-Demister-Repair-Kit-Brand-New-/400379264670 as mentioned, check you have power at the window first with a test light or multimeter(guessing it wont if the light isnt lit on the dash)(the globe in the dash might be part of the circuit even, so might pay to check the globe too?)

gas wont freeze up when its cold, cold does cause issues sometimes, usually with the crap thats in the converter(waxy by product in the gas builds up over time) when its cold, the wax stiffens and valves cant open. can pour warm water over the converter first up to test if its this.. if its fine, likely needs cleaning. also old diaphrams inside the converter stiffen over time which are worse when cold. Landi converter like my car has is most common for cold start issues(have only had 3 issues in 5 years though) when the wax is an issue, manifold vacuum pulls the valve open as it should and the wax build up prevents it from closing, so it floods with gas and can freeze the converter.. (trick to get going after this is to turn the switch to no fuel.. crank it till it fires meaning all the gas is gone then go get some water and tip it over the converter.. or flick it to petrol instead.. sometimes this is one off, sometimes it must be cleaned.

is that an FB(feed back) or CA (clean air) impco 225? what did you slot i think i read that FB type idle richer so they can be trimmed using the impco commander system(1991 onwards injected cars)

theres not much to them, gently lever the outter cover off the plastic pins, watch out for the spring loaded ball i think is in there and clean the contacts inside.. will be good as new if you dont break it or lose the bits lol..

if the high beams flash its not the high beam relay so you can swap it with the low beam(they rarely play up) relays are near the battery i'd be leaning towards the light switch, turn it on on off a heap of times.. flick the blinker switch to low and high a few times might help. they get dust and crap in the contacts..

pretty sure there is a fuse for them.. check the fuses. do the high beams flash when you pull the indicator back? are both high and low beam out?

i've had them hit at the top of the plenumn a few times in the past, so i bash it up in that area.(be the same as yours) not sure why or how it does. but it does. you could probably space down the pedal box a bit?

if it doesnt have a condenser its not going to have gas or work or leak when you remove it(the compressor might have some oil in it if you tip it upside down but theres not much in them at best of times. what car is this? XF? if so, those 12mm i think bolts are usually VERY tight that clamp the hoses on.. you can cut the hoses anyway if you dont care, but if you do you'll have a pipe/hose to scratch or cut yourself on instead. the joys of old falcons... even the newest XF is 20years old.

i never remove them when i take the motor out. even if they are buggered. i know someone who even refitted the air con condensor(radiator looking thing in front of the radiator) as he took it out, not long later a rock flicked up and put a hole in his radiator.. so he refitted it as a stone sheild lol. i cut the belt off on mine because i couldnt be bothered undoing the adjuster to replace the alt belt.. working air con is awesome.. but its an XF, so you can assume it wont work i think.

compressor is on the engine under the alternator. the evaporator is in the dash. unbolt it and leave it if its out of gas nothing will come out. .. why remove it, be lucky if it weighs 1kg... and if you need to you can use it as a heater core if the heater core dies soon(heater cores rarely last longer than 20 years.. so good chance its on its way already)

they are worth it.. just we are in a recession... either that, or people are wrong and XD-F parts arnt worth much