deankxf

spead bore has bigger secondary venturies which i would assume flow more than a square bore? might depend what the Aussiespeed manifold is setup for too? are you sure you need an aussispeed manifold? the long runners of the efi manifold made better low end torque was my understanding..

just changing from rubber to nolathane bushes on my sway bar made a massive improvement to my ute. would depend on spring stiffness and shocks but no way i wouldnt run one on the front.

i might use the EA auto(on a crossflow) but then again.. i still got it for free

funny how you cant even give some parts away lol

i have the EA 3 speed auto bell housing you need..(free$ to you) interested in this conversion..

i assume it will be 10 pulse, XF EA EB ED are 10 so i would assume so. the speedo has a trim adjustment, but it wont make a 20% difference i dont think. wont matter if it was 6 or 8 only the tacho will be out if it doesnt match(that is adjustable but i havent dont it yet) i have an 8 pulse XD/XE sender here if you get stuck.. would have to check it before i was comfortable sending it though(been buried in a box of junk for 10 years.)

what car is it going in? if ZJ, it will read the speedo 20% faster if its a 10 pulse transducer.(depending on gear fitted and diff ratio)

yeah its fidly, i just tested the XF one using this method (black =negative, white = signal, and the other is 12v+) rotating the speedo gear a full rotation showed a voltage(2ish) then 0 volts 10 times so that should help..

just went scrounging and found some senders. part number on yours doesnt match ford ones i have here.. seen in pic below [/url]

is the wire cover red or black?(assuming its from ford) i have no idea on part numbers. red = XF onwards, (10 pulse per tailshaft rev) black = XD or XE (8pulse per tailshaft rev)

from my memory(havent seen an XE heater box in ages) the vacuum motors that open the flaps etc are in the same spot and do the same as the XF. hook them into the same spot and it will probably work(i dont know what the ZL/Ghia blend motor does as i bin that part of it as i dont like the ghia dash) what you might be able to do is fit the XD/XE back cover of the heater box to the ZL heater box? if so, it will be all as XE.

mine played up with Tassie gas.. whether it was just coincidence i dont know

cant assume too much with ford.. my brain is in off mode.. might try make a tutorial on how to check it later

i would guess so. if you know which side is + and which is neg, you should be able to earth the multimeter neg on the body, and probe the demister in different places till you see where its broken? i would assume

i was thinking that sounds crap.. till i remembered my tassie bill was about that.. 400km for $60 (can do 400km for $40 here) on gas.. your petrol billl is redonkulous. 17 litres per 100km on petrol is poor, could get closer to 10 litres i think in one of them.

what gas system is on it? impco or something else

adrianphu123 is either a mind reader or a copy cat from the future lol

some people have hooked them to the starter motor trigger(i dont like this because if it doesnt start it can flood with gas... you can check if its flooded by turning the gas off if it has a switch?) it may have a separate primer button in the car, turn ign on, pressing the button releases some extra gas, and then fire it up.

they've set that up as a primer i would assume it only kicks in when its powered up(some have set these to supply extra gas on start up so check where the wires go on that solenoid you have circled

could pour warm water over the converter and if it starts fine, you know its the converter. when in good condition gas shouldnt be an issue in the cold.. mine was cross firing the other morning from moisture on the cap and leads etc.. thats tune related, of which they are way overdue(been on the car 18 months, but came with the motor that sat under a tree for 3 years prior)

never tried this stuff but its meant to re join broken tracks in the demister. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Rear-Window-Demister-Repair-Kit-Brand-New-/400379264670 as mentioned, check you have power at the window first with a test light or multimeter(guessing it wont if the light isnt lit on the dash)(the globe in the dash might be part of the circuit even, so might pay to check the globe too?)

gas wont freeze up when its cold, cold does cause issues sometimes, usually with the crap thats in the converter(waxy by product in the gas builds up over time) when its cold, the wax stiffens and valves cant open. can pour warm water over the converter first up to test if its this.. if its fine, likely needs cleaning. also old diaphrams inside the converter stiffen over time which are worse when cold. Landi converter like my car has is most common for cold start issues(have only had 3 issues in 5 years though) when the wax is an issue, manifold vacuum pulls the valve open as it should and the wax build up prevents it from closing, so it floods with gas and can freeze the converter.. (trick to get going after this is to turn the switch to no fuel.. crank it till it fires meaning all the gas is gone then go get some water and tip it over the converter.. or flick it to petrol instead.. sometimes this is one off, sometimes it must be cleaned.

is that an FB(feed back) or CA (clean air) impco 225? what did you slot i think i read that FB type idle richer so they can be trimmed using the impco commander system(1991 onwards injected cars)

theres not much to them, gently lever the outter cover off the plastic pins, watch out for the spring loaded ball i think is in there and clean the contacts inside.. will be good as new if you dont break it or lose the bits lol..

if the high beams flash its not the high beam relay so you can swap it with the low beam(they rarely play up) relays are near the battery i'd be leaning towards the light switch, turn it on on off a heap of times.. flick the blinker switch to low and high a few times might help. they get dust and crap in the contacts..