deankxf

see the black part the T bar is bolted to, without that you'll have too much gearbox poking through the tunnel to deal with

i'll see if i can find a pic from @CHESTNUTXE thread for the hump, he's recently done the same job

yeah hump on the floor for the gearstick to clear. get an XB to XE one that screws on and it's simple all the wiring is there for a cluster swap. just add the oil sender in place of the switch on the motor

the auto console can fit a manual fairly easy, the manual hole is too wide i think for the T bar display panel to be fitted. You'll need the hump fitted to the floor, XE and prior just unscrew and were available new from GT shops etc (XA to XE would be same or close enough) or drill the spotwelds off a Tbar etc one from a donor car XF if you just want the cluster swapped (easy) just get the fairlane cluster and the oil sender from the fairlane engine and it just plugs in and works. if you want to fit the whole fairlane dash with the trip computer etc. well, it can fit, i don't know it if plugs up to the existing engine loom without any mods(possibly would just plug and play)

depending how noisy you like I'm old, i'd go with a factory spec muffler., but back in the day a baffled glass pack sounded nice, the straight through ones will be similar but louder. you can delete the center resonator (often cracks anyway) for almost no difference (if anything a slightly nicer sound)

personally i didn't rate the 2.5" exhaust on stock engines. mine went better with 2" even than the 2.25 one,(be different if jetting etc was being done on the carby on a dyno i suspect) unless you like noise, the 2.5" makes a lot more noise, (i still reckon they sound better with a sports muffler on the stock exhaust size ) that's on a stock engine that only makes power to 4000rpm at best though (due to cam/valve springs)

that's a win, it may be a blocked cat, or the guts of it blocking something further down the line if it fell out (one of My utes and a sedan did this, it came loose/turned sideways and was blocking the flow in the cat pipe.. i made a bolt fit tight in a piece of garden hose and smashed it up while still fitted to the car (both times) due to i don't like udoing rusty exhaust bolts where possible. could be a rats nest in the muffler if it's been parked for yonks also i guess

anything to do with testing for Me was swap in another one. (swap tronics) @SPArKy_Dave may have some info links,

yes, but if you fit it, unplug the ECU in the kick panel of the XF (this could also be the current issue also, they have been known to go bad even 20yrs ago) I had an XF ute, fitted the XD alloy head/XE dissy (leaded XF is same but with the later cap, has a specific rotor button for it, you'd need to order if keeping it) it worked for ages but at some point the ECU in the kick panel(wasn't needed) had an issue and caused ignition breakdown. i simply unplugged it and it was fine with the XD dissy again. to fit it, all you need to do is put the wires onto the coil (2 wires) and it will work (unplug the ECU in the left kick panel) the ECU is specific to the carby models, EST sticker shoud/will be on it. might pay to check that before you go further, and if you can locate another to try it could be worth a shot. (unleaded aka 1986 XF utes/vans upto 1992 should have one as they were all carby. otherwise only sedan/wagon/fairlane etc from 1986/1987 with a carby would have them (rare now)

I haven't got time tonight but should be able to give you some more things to check tomorrow. but off the top of My head, you should check your fuel cut solenoid on the carby is getting power/(or vacuum if that's it's style) cars this old with low kms often have stuffed hoses and there's a chance it's sucking air from the fuel line joins(one under the floor of passengers left foot area is a common issue) try running fuel from a jerry can/bottle instead of the fuel tank first up to rule out that side of things i may think of more overnight or @SPArKy_Dave may have a clue to look into the ignition lock caused @CHESTNUTXE some grief in the same way, i hadn't had many issues removing them in the past but they can be annoying (low kms = less worn to jiggle pick, but a locksmith could get it out easily if you removed it (sometimes easier to remove the steering column if you can't access the bolts easy.. *tamper proof you'll need to cut a slot in them or chisel them undone)

i can't remember, i have a feeling it fits into the mounting bolt as is (maybe the mount has a square at the end of the threads even to locate it) the EB cross member mounts have a square hole also, so i'd say ford must have been considering this mount option at some point

i haven't got any photos handy at the moment, but this thread has a lot of info in it if you have time to check it out

i've never seen one pulled apart like the 2 bolt one's do, they get a bit sloppy eventually (original ford ones are not solid rubber, they have some dampening in them) due to the one center bolt, they allow a lot of twist and therefore don't break i think. for $200 odd, the tuff mounts one is the 2 bolt type that would be strong

Yep that's the one Just google eb Falcon gearbox mount for a photo

See that hole in between the xf cross member holes, you can use the e series gearbox mount with this hole fine in XF. I think they are stronger than the 2 bolt one. Exhaust bracket was a very strong pain in the arms trying to work around , most went in the bin. Probably very good at stopping the Exhaust manifold from cracking but not used with extractors

this works often, especially if you can get access to clean the threads up with a wire brush then lube it but sometimes with these bolts is you can jam something in to stop is spinning and then TIGHTEN the bolt until it breaks the bolt.. then you have access with the guard removed to cut the rusted stuff out with a grinder. i have centerpunched and drilled the bolt head off also, it's tough going, but can be done if needed. (one accessed by opening the door and above the top hinge caused me this pain once)

that motorad looks like just a brand name? that part goes into the head where the hot water touches the spring part to let it open. so opposite to how you are holding it in the first pic like below (only pic i could find on google)

I'm leaning towards neither of them being factory. unleaded XF has an EST computer and map sensor, likely just something to minorly improve emissions at the time. they were often replaced with the leaded dizzy from XE or XF (special LEADED rotor button needed if keeping the XF cap/leads, otherwise use XE rotor and cap/leads) if you use an XE dizzy in the later XF, remove the ECU from the kick panel, one of My XFs had ignition breakdown with it still fitted (faulty) and when removed the problem was gone.

got a photo of them? the EFI had 2 relays there, one was an ECU relay, the other a fuel pump relay. i didn't think there was a factory starter relay? @SPArKy_Dave may confirm. but many of my cars had starter relays fitted over the years. i don't see why you'd have another relay for a carby manifold, unless it's some anti theft thing been added?

@Thom may have an idea?

how'd it go up the big hill just past Calder Park Raceway, back to 4th gear and held the speed with the 1600?

https://crowcams.com.au/product/ford-crossflow-solid-1 I don't think $5k will go far these days. if you need to upgrade the diff, exhaust, trans, converter also. you'll be way off. I don't have the answers, but with a cam that big will surely need MUCH more compression to compensate . (you could ask Crow, they did reply to My questions on a different cam once) Also, what diff ratio are you going to use? i had a crossflow 30yrs ago that was 2500-5500 rpm range with 2.92 diff ratio and auto and stock converter and it was like starting off in second gear until it got to about 40kmh then came to life. a 2500 high stall or manual would have helped a lot. can you even get a 3500 high stall for what trans you are using if Auto? (likely going to cost a LOT also) RPM Range Part No. Duration with 1.73 Rocker Lobe Sep Angle Lash Advertised @.050” IN EX IN EX IN EX IN EX 3500 - 6500 14806 281° 294° 245° 255° 0.564 0.585 108 .018" .022" "FITTING NOTES" Must use performance springs. Must use performance retainers. Machining required to fit these components. Must use performance seal. Converter stall speed should be equal to or greater than the minimum RPM of the cam power range

The xf with column shift had rounded column covers like xe from memory. But that column isn't the height adjustable one so there may be enough differences to not fit without modifying that at least.

DID YOU BENCH BLEED the master cyl before hooking the lines up? video here it's a must do for new master cyls. XF brakes should be fine, when working. if it's a master issue, it will still be an issue on 6 pots, so you need to confirm that is the ussue. My best method for bleeding brakes now (on my own) is to get a LONG piece of fish tank bubbler hose, or similar clear 1/4 inch ish hose (bunnings even sold it last i bought)and a bit of rubber hose that fits it tight and to the bleeder nipple. and i basically pump the pedal slowly and if the fluid is all brand new you can even return it to the reservoir in a loop and keep pumping until no bubbles show. i'll draw you a fine picture with windows paint if you need an illustration. otherwise you need to keep topping up the reservoir to avoid sucking air when it's low. do this for the 4 corners and it's been the only way i've been certain there's no air in the lines. those suction one's haven't worked for a few people i know, so it's something you can try before going further. A mate of mine just got a 1996 master cyl (original) from a wreck at the wreckers, it was clean so he's just fitted it and it worked. 20yrs ago i was blasted for using second hand good quality ball joints in something compared to new crap we are talking about here. which later i finally tried and they could have caused a serious accident (i tagged you but i'll link here also)

bumping this for new members @Crebe (quality of protex brake master cyl)