Jump to content
Server maintenance Read more... ×

ando76

Members
  • Content Count

    3,267
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    62

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Fingers in Efi 2barrel efi kits verse Holley carby.   
    But did they do that on a crossflow?  That's my point.  
  2. Haha
    ando76 got a reaction from Searley in converting a barra to carb   
    Jason I have seen a dizzy driven off v belt on a v6 commodore engine that was converted to run on carbs.  it is real old school speedway engineering but it can be done.
     
    would I bother doing it to a BA motor - no way.  with cam lift limited to .515" because of the rocker gear you can not possibly take advantage of the extra flow of the cylinder head with only that amount of lift.  duration would have to be increased to the point that I doubt a dual cam engine would really work.
     
    I could make a crossy pull jesus off the cross and run 12s all day for the price of making the ignition system work on one of these and then get it all complied. 
  3. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from adrianphu123 in Someone to assemble head and cost?   
    You need to ask to speak to Cam mate. He does the assembly work in his own time but is sounds like your on it.
     
    Plus one on checking to see if a shim is needed with the cam.
  4. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from gonefishing in What's the benefit of 200 rods in a 250?   
    If you want to build a strong, torque monster and have a non individual runner intake - go short rod
     
    If you want to build a strong, torque monster that RPM's to 7200 comfortably, have individual runner intake and a cylinder head that flows over 225cfm- go long rod.
     
    If you want to build a long rod motor to impress your mates - do it. 
     
    Trust me - the short rod motor with a four barrel intake (or restrictor class racing 2 barrel intake ) is a formidable thing. 
     
    Yes I know all the stuff about bore stroke ratio and all the long held beliefs of the benefits of the long rod.  I have built enough of these as competition engine to know what works and what doesn't.  Brenton's new race motor is a short rod - big solid cam beast and it is stupid fast.
     
    As always the choice is yours. 
  5. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Thom in Unknown cam performance   
    Unknown camshaft equals troubles really.  By the time you send it to get a cam doctor sheet for dial in the cost is already close to a new cam. 
     
    Have a look on the end of the r-grind cam for any identifiers. Might save time. As others have said, nut out exactly what you want from the engine and then build a combo to suit. COMBINATION being the emphasis. Not all of us want a 280-300rwhp crossy.  Whilst they are fun and manageable on the street, they are not cheap. 
     
    Gerg is spot on with his recommendations,  on lift, duration and lobe sep. in my opinion a good fun street engine hits bloody hard off the bottom, has enough vacuum for decent brakes and has a mid range hit that gets you very excited. Many years ago I did a small 2 barrel engine for a bloke well past his 50’s who lives in Brissy. 240@.050 and .510 lift solid Tighe cam. It does everything very nicely. Runs 3.45 gears as he runs it at Willowbank on club days. Drives it everywhere and smiles every time.  Made 198rwhp on Zox performance dyno.  
    Ultraflow 2 barrel, 500 Holley a set of rockers, extractors etc. - all second hand to keep it budget friendly. 
     
    Follow the cam grinders guidllines on comp and gearing and you can’t go too far wrong as they are an excellent base. Enjoy 
  6. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from motoSycho in New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute   
    ^^^^^
    and the exact reason to use quality solid lifters with the laser cut oiling hole on the lifter face. They cost more initially but years of trouble free operation and massively reduced risk of cam break in failure are the pay off. I use the Isky units but camtech and a few other grinders are now selling the lifters in 6 cylinder sets. Well worth it. 
     
    If you are careful with your break in procedure and ensure the thing doesn’t even get close to idle in that critical 1st 20 minutes of running then you will be fine with normal solids. But there is a risk. Good quality oil and a bottle of comp Cams engine break in lube mixed in and you’ll go a long way to ensuring successful run in. Just don’t let it get near idle and make sure your pushrods are spinning. 
  7. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Outback Jack in Exhaust design thread...   
    Thanks matt.  I'm really happy with the way it turned out and how it tucks the exhaust up out of harms way.  I'm looking at making my own set of 'Header Mufflers' (see Car Chemistry header mufflers) to put into the turndowns to take a bit of the rasp out.  I'll post up some pics after the school holidays and I'll take another video with a better camera and just focus on the exhaust noise at idle and with a rev cause it does sound very sweet. 
     
    Thanks again for the kind words.
  8. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Outback Jack in Exhaust design thread...   
    Ok so most of you know I have been beating on about building a twin 2.5" system with an 'X' pipe for my race car.  Well I have had all these bits for awhile and I finally found some time to get into it so I started with all this today.
     

     
     
     

     
    I worked out a rough plan and seeing as it was going into my race car I was lucky in that I did not have to deal with the usual constraints of bending the exhaust around to suit the floor plan.  I decided that I wanted the new system to be as straight as possible. Minimal bends - less restriction.  I also wanted to get the new system up as high as I could to avoid track damage as well as damage from unloading and loading the car.  So I checked the rule book and modifying the floor pan to fit the exhaust seemed to be okay and I have seen plenty of people do this - even with exhausts routed on the passenger side of the car.  So I hooked in and removed a section of the floor to allow the exhaust to basically run straight under my seat and back into the original exhaust cavity.  I'll replace this section with a bit of 1.5mm sheet steel bent and swagged for strength. 
     
    So I joined the MOROSO spiral flow mufflers and fitted up the flanged turndowns which allows me to direct the exhaust wherever I want.  I decided to go straight to ground.
     

     
    I worked out the length I wanted before the system met the X pipe and I that allowed me to build the system from the back forward.
     

     

     
     
    Then I spent the rest of the afternoon doing the front half of the system so that it bolted up in the same way as the original exhaust. This will allow me to back to back each of the systems on the dyno to see if the new system has made any power or torque gains. One thing is for sure it sounds heaps better, a bit louder than the original system but for the moment I'm happy. So enough garbling, here is the video.
     
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ehTtPostYjk
  9. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Fingers in The Mad Scientist Crossflow   
    Yep family time. 
     
    Thanks for the kind words men.  This crossy will be number 4 in my crossy family.  I have the burnout car (old flat tappet speedway motor), the plan B speedway flat tappet 2 barrel meth motor - currently on loan to Brenton,  THOR the roller cam (gee I must get that one pieced together) and now the Mad scientist. 
     
    Do I have a crossy addiction - YES!!!  Oh and that's not including the customer engines and engine parts I've done.  I really should move on but I just love them so much.
     
    Like last night at 9.30pm when I got on top of a couple of carb issues on the burnout ute and I did a test skid in front of work.  My tenant in my other shed was there.  He is a massive Holden fan and he was looking at the ute when I was fixing it.  He was a bit impressed when I started it and when I did the 1st,2nd, 3rd static test skid his jaw dropped.  He just stood there, mouth wide open.  Bloody classic.  he said "look at the smoke - its just compound smoke - so thick",  then just back to stunned silence. 
     
    Gotta love the underdog engine.  Anyway back on track.  Here is the sump I am going to use on the mad scientist engine.  It is not one of my own designs and could be a lot better - BUT it came with the carton of beer motor so it's getting used.  I has increased capacity and a basic crank scraper and half a tray so it will do for the shop ute.  Anyway here it is - apologies for the crap photo -
     

  10. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Thom in Unknown cam performance   
    Unknown camshaft equals troubles really.  By the time you send it to get a cam doctor sheet for dial in the cost is already close to a new cam. 
     
    Have a look on the end of the r-grind cam for any identifiers. Might save time. As others have said, nut out exactly what you want from the engine and then build a combo to suit. COMBINATION being the emphasis. Not all of us want a 280-300rwhp crossy.  Whilst they are fun and manageable on the street, they are not cheap. 
     
    Gerg is spot on with his recommendations,  on lift, duration and lobe sep. in my opinion a good fun street engine hits bloody hard off the bottom, has enough vacuum for decent brakes and has a mid range hit that gets you very excited. Many years ago I did a small 2 barrel engine for a bloke well past his 50’s who lives in Brissy. 240@.050 and .510 lift solid Tighe cam. It does everything very nicely. Runs 3.45 gears as he runs it at Willowbank on club days. Drives it everywhere and smiles every time.  Made 198rwhp on Zox performance dyno.  
    Ultraflow 2 barrel, 500 Holley a set of rockers, extractors etc. - all second hand to keep it budget friendly. 
     
    Follow the cam grinders guidllines on comp and gearing and you can’t go too far wrong as they are an excellent base. Enjoy 
  11. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Thom in Unknown cam performance   
    Unknown camshaft equals troubles really.  By the time you send it to get a cam doctor sheet for dial in the cost is already close to a new cam. 
     
    Have a look on the end of the r-grind cam for any identifiers. Might save time. As others have said, nut out exactly what you want from the engine and then build a combo to suit. COMBINATION being the emphasis. Not all of us want a 280-300rwhp crossy.  Whilst they are fun and manageable on the street, they are not cheap. 
     
    Gerg is spot on with his recommendations,  on lift, duration and lobe sep. in my opinion a good fun street engine hits bloody hard off the bottom, has enough vacuum for decent brakes and has a mid range hit that gets you very excited. Many years ago I did a small 2 barrel engine for a bloke well past his 50’s who lives in Brissy. 240@.050 and .510 lift solid Tighe cam. It does everything very nicely. Runs 3.45 gears as he runs it at Willowbank on club days. Drives it everywhere and smiles every time.  Made 198rwhp on Zox performance dyno.  
    Ultraflow 2 barrel, 500 Holley a set of rockers, extractors etc. - all second hand to keep it budget friendly. 
     
    Follow the cam grinders guidllines on comp and gearing and you can’t go too far wrong as they are an excellent base. Enjoy 
  12. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Thom in Unknown cam performance   
    Unknown camshaft equals troubles really.  By the time you send it to get a cam doctor sheet for dial in the cost is already close to a new cam. 
     
    Have a look on the end of the r-grind cam for any identifiers. Might save time. As others have said, nut out exactly what you want from the engine and then build a combo to suit. COMBINATION being the emphasis. Not all of us want a 280-300rwhp crossy.  Whilst they are fun and manageable on the street, they are not cheap. 
     
    Gerg is spot on with his recommendations,  on lift, duration and lobe sep. in my opinion a good fun street engine hits bloody hard off the bottom, has enough vacuum for decent brakes and has a mid range hit that gets you very excited. Many years ago I did a small 2 barrel engine for a bloke well past his 50’s who lives in Brissy. 240@.050 and .510 lift solid Tighe cam. It does everything very nicely. Runs 3.45 gears as he runs it at Willowbank on club days. Drives it everywhere and smiles every time.  Made 198rwhp on Zox performance dyno.  
    Ultraflow 2 barrel, 500 Holley a set of rockers, extractors etc. - all second hand to keep it budget friendly. 
     
    Follow the cam grinders guidllines on comp and gearing and you can’t go too far wrong as they are an excellent base. Enjoy 
  13. Like
    ando76 reacted to deankxf in Unknown cam performance   
    i am no expert at all on cams, but comparing it to crows list (page 12 here https://www.crowcams.com.au/Portals/0/Crow2020/CrowCams2020.pdf?ver=2019-12-18-095023-240 )
    it looks kind of small still to Me. 
    if @ando76 has time he's one of the best crossflow experts (you could read his posts if you have time)
  14. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from motoSycho in New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute   
    ^^^^^
    and the exact reason to use quality solid lifters with the laser cut oiling hole on the lifter face. They cost more initially but years of trouble free operation and massively reduced risk of cam break in failure are the pay off. I use the Isky units but camtech and a few other grinders are now selling the lifters in 6 cylinder sets. Well worth it. 
     
    If you are careful with your break in procedure and ensure the thing doesn’t even get close to idle in that critical 1st 20 minutes of running then you will be fine with normal solids. But there is a risk. Good quality oil and a bottle of comp Cams engine break in lube mixed in and you’ll go a long way to ensuring successful run in. Just don’t let it get near idle and make sure your pushrods are spinning. 
  15. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from motoSycho in New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute   
    ^^^^^
    and the exact reason to use quality solid lifters with the laser cut oiling hole on the lifter face. They cost more initially but years of trouble free operation and massively reduced risk of cam break in failure are the pay off. I use the Isky units but camtech and a few other grinders are now selling the lifters in 6 cylinder sets. Well worth it. 
     
    If you are careful with your break in procedure and ensure the thing doesn’t even get close to idle in that critical 1st 20 minutes of running then you will be fine with normal solids. But there is a risk. Good quality oil and a bottle of comp Cams engine break in lube mixed in and you’ll go a long way to ensuring successful run in. Just don’t let it get near idle and make sure your pushrods are spinning. 
  16. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from motoSycho in New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute   
    ^^^^^
    and the exact reason to use quality solid lifters with the laser cut oiling hole on the lifter face. They cost more initially but years of trouble free operation and massively reduced risk of cam break in failure are the pay off. I use the Isky units but camtech and a few other grinders are now selling the lifters in 6 cylinder sets. Well worth it. 
     
    If you are careful with your break in procedure and ensure the thing doesn’t even get close to idle in that critical 1st 20 minutes of running then you will be fine with normal solids. But there is a risk. Good quality oil and a bottle of comp Cams engine break in lube mixed in and you’ll go a long way to ensuring successful run in. Just don’t let it get near idle and make sure your pushrods are spinning. 
  17. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from deankxf in New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute   
    Neo 2 piece Windsor rear main seal is the go. As Banno said, just gotta get rid of the old retaining spike for the rope seal. A small pin punch knocks it out. 
     
    As to head gaskets, just stick to the $55 durapro units. They seal just fine.  Bad tune kills headgaskets more so than the material they are made of. I use them in 12:1 comp endurance Motorsport engines and they survive just fine. 
  18. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from deankxf in New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute   
    Neo 2 piece Windsor rear main seal is the go. As Banno said, just gotta get rid of the old retaining spike for the rope seal. A small pin punch knocks it out. 
     
    As to head gaskets, just stick to the $55 durapro units. They seal just fine.  Bad tune kills headgaskets more so than the material they are made of. I use them in 12:1 comp endurance Motorsport engines and they survive just fine. 
  19. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from deankxf in New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute   
    Neo 2 piece Windsor rear main seal is the go. As Banno said, just gotta get rid of the old retaining spike for the rope seal. A small pin punch knocks it out. 
     
    As to head gaskets, just stick to the $55 durapro units. They seal just fine.  Bad tune kills headgaskets more so than the material they are made of. I use them in 12:1 comp endurance Motorsport engines and they survive just fine. 
  20. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Fingers in Making power above 4000rpm on a turbo crossflow   
    Plus one for the injectors.  I will be going with 1000cc units on mine to future proof it.  With the autronic ecu and Ray Hall tuning it I am confident that it will still perform well at idle.
     
    I downloaded and printed out a thread from the other forum many years ago when I was thinking of turbo crossflows.  It was written by a smart bloke and he recommended 600cc minimum so I am with the fuel being an issue.
     
    Same bloke recommended two JIC fittings welded to the factory rail to feed the beast and one in the middle going to a rising rate reg for the return.  very simple set up and really bugger all cost.  I have seen SARD rising rate regs come up often on Gumtree from unfinished dreams. 
     
    I'm still not 100% sold on this common idea of return from the rail going to the surge tank - but everyone seems to do it.  I will not be doing it on mine as I don't want hot fuel return to the surge/swirl.  if you are worried about the engine emptying the surge or the lift pump not providing enough volume to keep the swirl full, then fix that issue.  I'd rather have hot, under pressure fuel being released into a larger volume of fuel (at the bottom of the tank so it doesn't aerate) than into a swirl, but each to their own.
  21. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from Fingers in Street Stock Speedway   
    PM 50 is 25-50?? if so it may just be a bit better than a penrite.  Try some FUCHS Race 60 'TITAN' I think they call it now - its a 25-50 oil and is full of zinc and copper.  great oil that and holds it pressure very well - especially if you add a 1/3rd of a bottle of slick 50 in it.  The slick 50 is not really needed in your application but in speedway and metho based engines it helps keep everything nice.  Try some - you will love it - doesn't take long to get up to temp either.
  22. Like
    ando76 reacted to Mr Polson in XF EFI CAT   
    When I first registered my wagon it had the stock manifold and engine pipe/cat, with only one muffler.
    Soon gave it a set of headers afterwards, and then a few years later had to put a new cat in to have it re-registered, also put in a full OE wagon exhaust - 3 mufflers, can't say any of it seemed to make any difference to performance
  23. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from dex in XF EFI CAT   
    Yep, when they were new. Now I doubt any of those old systems would be close to being able to deal with anything. The pure wear and tear on the vane and all the other systems would just push them to next to useless. Hell if you even let the rocker cover seal and dipstick seal go they go into spaz mode. 
  24. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from deankxf in XF EFI CAT   
    It’s probably more of a case that the cat brought the horrendous efi set up back closer to original parameters and hit an air fuel ratio that the engine liked. 
     
  25. Like
    ando76 got a reaction from dex in XF EFI CAT   
    Yep, when they were new. Now I doubt any of those old systems would be close to being able to deal with anything. The pure wear and tear on the vane and all the other systems would just push them to next to useless. Hell if you even let the rocker cover seal and dipstick seal go they go into spaz mode. 
×