SPArKy_Dave

Ignore the 'MotoRad' wording... that's just the brand name of thermostat, which Tridon re-box's from India.
The spring part, goes into the cyl head.
The dome shape, faces the radiator as-per @deankxf's helpful picture.
 
What I would recommend though, is test the new thermostat in a pot of boiling water first,
using a thermometer to check it opens/closes correctly.
 
I never quite trust aftermarket parts these days - especially suspension components (see @deankxf).

Guys, thanks heaps, this had me sweating at 11pm haha.
 
I looked at the wording and was like ???? What??? Have I been wrong this entire time? (It happens a lot haha)
 
I went to look in the manual and it says "Place the thermostat back in reverse of removal" and without pictures I was nervous I was going to put it in wrong hahaha.
 
God I love this site.

that motorad looks like just a brand name?
that part goes into the head where the hot water touches the spring part to let it open. 

so opposite to how you are holding it in the first pic
like below (only pic i could find on google)

I agree it's crazy why .  Yes in the early falcons they did . I'm not 100% sure exactly which. Might been pre XP ? 
 
Might also been to do with some early 6 cylinders , 144 , 170 etc had a very small bellhousing pattern at the motor side and hence smaller bellhousing.
Those I think had the Ford o matic but when they went to the 200 auto went to the BW35
 
Came across it also when a friend got a U.S Falcon , was a 3 speed manual 6 cylinder.  When I built a C4 to go in it with a 302 the tunnel needed work

Here's an old video circa 2007 with my phone taped to the steering wheel running from zero to 180 kph (i was inventive back then) of my pick a part special 4.0 it made 144rwkw around this time, and it made 177 rwkw with a tune later on (video quality is representative of its time) it was in my xh ute with an ex taxi au short motor (from memory had more than 860,xxx ks), ef xr6 head (94 dt) ea cam, el bbm intake, super cat extractors, crow vernier cam gear, yella terra billet flywheel, high flow cat 2.5 inch exhaust, t5 and 3.45 gears, it was a lot of fun to an 18 year old me, I put over 180,xxxks on that engine before it let go when the stock valve train decided that 2 years of turning to 7000rpm was enough and it dropped a valve, after it was tuned the rev limiter was set to 7200rpm and it saw it every time it was in 1st gear (18 year old me was hard on the equipment) and sometimes more often than that, I wouldn't mind getting another e-series one day and replicating this combo, although it would be really fun in something lightweight like an xp falcon

Can anyone tell me if they hace pit a 4 spd auto in an xr 1966. I have one in my ute and think it maybe at the wrong agle for the box to tailshaft. Its possible someone couldnt get it up into the tunnel enough. Do xr xt xw xy have different tunnel sizes as in bigger than xr?

bumping this for new members @Crebe (quality of protex brake master cyl) 

DID YOU BENCH BLEED the master cyl before hooking the lines up? video here it's a must do for new master cyls. 
 
 
XF brakes should be fine,  when working. if it's a master issue, it will still be an issue on 6 pots, so you need to confirm that is the ussue. 
My best method for bleeding brakes now (on my own) is to get a LONG piece of fish tank bubbler hose, or similar clear 1/4 inch ish hose (bunnings even sold it last i bought)and a bit of rubber hose that fits it tight and to the bleeder nipple.
and i basically pump the pedal slowly and if the fluid is all brand new you can even return it to the reservoir in a loop and keep pumping until no bubbles show.  i'll draw you a fine picture with windows paint if you need an illustration.  otherwise you need to keep topping up the reservoir to avoid sucking air when it's low. 
do this for the 4 corners and it's been the only way i've been certain there's no air in the lines. 
those suction one's haven't worked for a few people i know,  so it's something you can try before going further.
 
 
 

A mate of mine just got a 1996 master cyl (original) from a wreck at the wreckers, it was clean so he's just fitted it and it worked. 
20yrs ago i was blasted for using second hand good quality ball joints in something compared to new crap we are talking about here. which later i finally tried and they could have caused a serious accident (i tagged you but i'll link here also)
 
 

Buy from china/india for 0.50c each, put in shipping container.
Ship to Australia.
Unload shipping container, sell to plebs for 10,000% markup?
 
To my knowledge, there's no real regulation of suspension/brake/general auto parts here in Aus, so they don't much care...
 
Even a 50% failure rate = still making money, it's very much buyer beware IMO.
(case-in-point - see @deankxf's experience with suspension components)
 

Wow, what a pain!
 
I've had gasket failure happen, mostly with 3spd BW Auto trans pans.
I usually spray cork gaskets with Hylomar sealant,
but found if I coat it too much without drying properly first, the gasket goes soft and breaks
 
My factory XB service manual says 7-9ftlb for the smaller pan bolts,
and 11-13ftlb for the larger ones at the end.

I really can't believe this, I'm so annoyed. I was very careful with the gasket install (I followed Clevo King's excellent video). Everything seemed good until the final torquing (just 12 ft lb) and the gasket split in the corner. This sump install on the garage floor was such a massive pain, at this point I think I'll just live with the damn leak for a year until I can be bothered to do it again (or if I decide to pull the motor at any point).
 
Any idea what I could have done to avoid this?
 

you can glue a dash mat on it.. fixed. 
the state of the other trim is pretty rough, sure it's not worth finding another interior or do you have good trim for it?

you can get them redone at huge expense ($800 rings a bell)
i've seen (and i'm likely to do similar on My gemini one) slicing out the high part of the crack so it's a bit lower than the top, mixing up some fibreglass resin and laying it in the crack , then bogging over, sanding and painting the whole thing . 
 
depends on your budget and if you care if it' cracks again(i think it's so brittle now it's likely to crack again anyway unless fully recovered)
 

Hey everyone!
 
Good news, im healthy again and workiing on cars.
 
In the time ive been away I have had my XF falcon' dash crack... Sad days.
 
Is  there anything I can do to fix this? I thought Id start here because you guys have been so helpful along the resto of this one. (ignore the filth its been like 6 months)
 
Thanks for that and I hope you are all doing really well hey.
 

Here's a comparison of the old (only less than 2 years old) mounts to new ones. The old ones folded severely at the bend. I don't know what caused this and I hope it doesn't happen again. The new ones are 0.5mm thicker so not very much.
 
Now that the new mounts are fitted I need to get the oil pan on and it is really fighting me but I'll get there.
 

 

 

 

custom fab is needed,and lots of money i threw 10k into a carby  engine and got 210 rwhp better tune would have seen maybe 240,most use the std barra turbo with good results,use std oil pump,no one makes large valves so ya have to turn down 2v clevo intakes and use chev 1.6 exhaust,you can throw 3k easy at a crossflow head to make that kind of power you are talking about,yes either ef crank or std 250 crank,another thing to consider is 3 or 4 bolt balancer ,i would start with a 84da block it has 1 piece rear main seal and larger flywheel bolts.

I have Pioneer 602257 mounts on their way now, I'll let you know if they look any better.

Transgold
https://www.maceengineering.co.nz/epages/macenz.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/macenz/Products/MNT836-D

Those new mounts look pretty bad, in comparison to ur originals.
The angle of the upper tabs, is way different!
 
What brand are they?
ie - Mackay, Kelpro etc

Choices seem to be the following -

Mackay - A1140
Kelpro - MT8095
Pioneer - 602257
Transgold - MNT836
 
I've also read, u can get new rubber vulcanised to the old metal pieces.

The USA Mustang saddles had rubber pads from factory I think.
It's a thing for some recent aftermarket spring saddles - suppliers source Chinese repro mustang parts probably?

Can u post a picture of the spring, and height that the vehicle is sitting at?
Also the bump-stop clearance.
 
That will let us help u more.

sometimes people put spring packers on top of the very low sets of springs just to raise them 5 or 10mm,the recess inside the tower sought of guides and holds the top of the spring into a comfortable position,but add a packer or nolathane spacer and it leaves the top of the spriing out of the groove so to say,and i hads this happen on my xf ute when i raised the low kings a cm and put bluepro spacers,the packer and spring moved somehow into an akward position and compleatly stuffed the spacer,just buy the right springs guys.yes like dean said low or super or ultra low will be able to turn and fix up but std i doubt it ,they are so high .

pedal fitted

ok 1 hyd pedal box ready to use

The original plastic piece is perfect length  for the brake pedal on the left,its just to the right of the pedal that you need to shim with washers or a small piece of plastic tube provided in the kit ,about 1cm but can very a few mm,i still need to shim about 1 or 2 mm to push it all together tighter,if thats what you mean kiwi-e.