-
Content Count
10,237 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
147
Posts posted by SPArKy_Dave
-
-
@Crebe, the engine/gearbox should be angled downhill to the rear of the vehicle, by around 3 degrees.
Check the angle, with a carpenters degree wheel from Bunnings.
-
Aussie PBR or Chinese Protex... the master cyl fluid pressure/volume ratio's need to be correct,
or they won't provide correct application at the wheels.
Drum rear vs Disc rear master cylinders have different internal ratio's.
When working correctly, XF brakes (incl drum rears) will almost stand the car on it's nose.
I've experienced both good AND bad XF brakes back to back.
-
There are tubular upper arms available I think, which give a Shelby drop, without drilling new holes.
-
Wow, what a pain!
I've had gasket failure happen, mostly with 3spd BW Auto trans pans.
I usually spray cork gaskets with Hylomar sealant,
but found if I coat it too much without drying properly first, the gasket goes soft and breaks
My factory XB service manual says 7-9ftlb for the smaller pan bolts,
and 11-13ftlb for the larger ones at the end.
CHESTNUTXE reacted to this -
Tough part is, those tan interiors (an EA colour) were only used in 88-90 XF commercials.
As most commercials had a hard life, there's not many good parts around anymore.
It took me almost 2yrs, to locate a non-cracked tan dash pad for my XF SVO project ute,
costing around $300 from memory!
-
Big difference between the old (transgold?) and new (Pioneer?) mounts!
Do u still have a factory Ford mount, to compare metal thickness?
-
4 hours ago, Crebe said:How the hell do brake parts that are new be crap? How do they make it into the country. Dont buy Protex would be my recomendation!
Buy from china/india for 0.50c each, put in shipping container.
Ship to Australia.
Unload shipping container, sell to plebs for 10,000% markup?
To my knowledge, there's no real regulation of suspension/brake/general auto parts here in Aus, so they don't much care...
Even a 50% failure rate = still making money, it's very much buyer beware IMO.
(case-in-point - see @deankxf's experience with suspension components)
deankxf reacted to this -
Choices seem to be the following -
Mackay - A1140Kelpro - MT8095
Pioneer - 602257
Transgold - MNT836
I've also read, u can get new rubber vulcanised to the old metal pieces.
iamaelephant reacted to this -
Those new mounts look pretty bad, in comparison to ur originals.
The angle of the upper tabs, is way different!
What brand are they?
ie - Mackay, Kelpro etc
iamaelephant reacted to this -
The top pressed metal part of those engine mounts, looks a bit thin tbh.
Do you have any original mounts to compare with?
-
2 hours ago, deankxf said:never seen it, in at least 50 cars i've poked around with(including at wreckers)
The USA Mustang saddles had rubber pads from factory I think.
It's a thing for some recent aftermarket spring saddles - suppliers source Chinese repro mustang parts probably?
deankxf reacted to this -
13 hours ago, iamaelephant said:looks like the spring has popped partly out of the spring seat.
Can u post a picture of the spring, and height that the vehicle is sitting at?
Also the bump-stop clearance.
That will let us help u more.
CHESTNUTXE reacted to this -
TTS010, is XD/XE Cleveland - (XD/XE gauges use lower resistance senders)
U need to run an XF temp sender, for the XF dash cluster
I think around 60ohms, = mid-way on XF temp gauges, and 35ohms = Max/Hot
Tridon TTS037 should be the one u need. (thread/post terminal)
OR
VDO 320.093 (OEM)
OR
FuelMiser CTS144
Undo the thread adaptor from ur old sensor, and re-use it (Crossflow 1/8 - 27NPT to Cleveland 3/8 - 18NPT)
bear351c reacted to this -
2 hours ago, deankxf said:could also be POINT BOUNCE,
https://mooregoodink.com/minimizing-spark-scatter-in-the-vintage-race-engine/
-
There's only two brands I've seen -
Loctite (my preferred one)
and Permatex, which I've not had much success with.
IVC434 reacted to this -
If it's a chinese knockoff 'PBR' master cyl made by Protex,
I've read numerous people advising not to use them, as they can be problematic.
Better to re-seal/sleeve the original PBR unit IMO.
If it's an aftermarket one, it could be leaking?
Watch it doesn't leak onto the engine bay paint!
-
-
That sort of coil should be fine, just needs to be a GT40R coil - to suit a resistor wire/points system
GT40R is a 9v coil - to suit points
GT40 is a 12v coil, for electronic style ignition
bear351c, deankxf and superyob reacted to this -
15 hours ago, Searley said:the car just Floated along in the Wind rising up and going down with a slow rhythm. And when you turned the steering wheel sometimes there was no feel or movement
reminds me of normal x-series steering... @deankxf
When I drove the $300 Grandpa XF ute back from near Maldon, (in the dark and rain mind you), it was extremely taxing to steer.
Terrible even for an XF...
I wasn't comfortable going over 80.
A look over in the following days, revealed an idler arm with no bushing left on one end.
Some further investigation, showed it'd been off the rd for almost 10yrs!
-
-
22 hours ago, deankxf said:they are usually good for 500,000kms with a head resurface and reasonably well looked after.
The 03/98 XH panelvan I'm cleaning up atm, has 566,000km on the original bottom end (and transmission too looks like).
Cyl head was done at 520,000km-ish.
It seems quite perky, and a COLD compression test showed an even 165psi across all cylinders.
It's the highest km XH I've ever seen.
-
7 hours ago, deankxf said:wonder if that's the one @SPArKy_Dave has?
Yes, bought one of those many moons ago.
-
-
2 hours ago, Grr351 said:Did you get a answer on this sparky ?.I have the same problem
In the end, I did.
Eventually I found someone selling a set of XB 302 V8 Manual Clutch and Brake pedals, with a proper good condition chrome shifter handle too.
From memory, the whole lot cost about $180?
Still on the hunt for a Single Rail V8 bell housing though.
Proving tough to find one!
Thermostat 250 Crossflow.
in Crossflow
Posted
Ignore the 'MotoRad' wording... that's just the brand name of thermostat, which Tridon re-box's from India.
The spring part, goes into the cyl head.
The dome shape, faces the radiator as-per @deankxf's helpful picture.
What I would recommend though, is test the new thermostat in a pot of boiling water first,
using a thermometer to check it opens/closes correctly.
I never quite trust aftermarket parts these days - especially suspension components (see @deankxf).