SPArKy_Dave

You might need to get a hold of a an Air/fuel ratio gauge, and see what the mixture is like. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php There is some 'mixture' adjustment, at the air flow meter near the air box. Two things first though - 1. verify that TDC on the balancer, is the engine's true TDC. - so you know your timing marks are accurate. 2. try disconnecting and plugging off, the brake vacuum booster hose, and see if that makes any difference.

Partially seized piston could cause a hard pedal.

No, they did something much MUCH worse.................... 390mm metric sized rims on the FD LTD's.

Hate to break it to you Steve............. but that's an EL 'Falcon' badge you've got there - denoted by the square script/font. The EF 'Falcon' badges, were made with a slanted 'italic's' type font.

Ahhh, EL brakes...... one of the great mysteries of man kind. I have many E-series in the family. The EL's with ABS, seem to have a somewhat unresponsive brake pedal. By the same token, the EF wagon project has extremely touchy brakes, so I know the e-series have a fundamental capability, to have good brakes. I've tried playing with around with my EL wagon, installing stupidly expensive front rotors, and NOS front calipers, etc. Those things did improve the brakes, but not dramatically. The EF still has a far more responsive pedal. I still want to try replacing the booster on my EL wagon, re-build the back brake calipers and fit expensive rotors there too. It's a learning experience, but I've heard the ABS units can hold air in the system, and need to be operated/pulsed, to force out the air. This can be achieved by an ABS diagnostic tool, or by test driving the car and standing on the brakes hard, to make the ABS work - then re-bleeding the system. I personally haven't tested this theory. EF's and EL's also have different ABS units.

I would like to actually test the quality of the casting metal, used in the manufacture of all the different (currently available) x-series ball joints and tierod ends. I guess we'd have to establish a baseline, by analysing the metal quality, of an 'Original genuine Ford' set of TRW steering components - from the 80's. I haven't a clue, how you'd go about getting such testing done though.

I vote, pixorban......

Here's an ED which I did not too long ago.

Get a vacuum pump and gauge set off ebay. A flushing tool/gun might be more difficult to get. Never tried to buy one from ebay. The flushing fluid is exxy too - $120+ for 5ltrs. To get a reliable AC system, you'll really need to disassemble everything, flush the lines out - each section individually. Including the evap and condenser cores. If you can, make up adaptors to pressurise the cores with air - as high as you can go - 100PSI or more. (The system - pipes, cores etc, will see 100psi+ at rest, and 40-50psi low side / 150-200psi high side - in operation.) Dunk the pressurised cores in a vessel of water, to see if they leak anywhere. - I'm talking microscopic leaks - porous solder joints and such. Be patient with this step, and go over the entire cores. Remove the compressor and drain all the old oil from it. Replace with the Synthetic Oil. Also check the compressor clutch bearings and general overall condition - for evidence of oil staining from leaking seals/gaskets etc. Repair as necessary. Refit everything. Don't be afraid to re-use old o-rings, if they feel nice and pliable and look in good condition. (let them sit in a shallow bath of compressor oil for a few mins beforehand though.) Once re-assembled, draw a vacuum on the system in several stages, and let it sit for a few hrs, to see if it holds the vacuum. If so, then introduce the correct charge of refrigerant monitor the pressures and temperatures, tweak the refrigerant charge as necessary and enjoy! Don't expect to see much change from $1k, to get your first AC system up and going again. (that's DIY too, mind you)

This thread is for 'Special' people like me and Dan, who want/like/aspire to have 'working Aircon' in our x-series. Cause owning an x-series with working aircon, makes you feel just that little bit special. Bring forth with the questions!

Ok no worries, start a new topic on x-series Aircon refurbishing if you like, and I'll share what I know.

Yeah, those fittings are R134a - but it doesn't mean the system has been properly converted. To properly convert a system to R134a, you need to flush all the lines and replace the compressor oil from Mineral, to PAG oil. Not doing it properly, only ends in failure. With Hychill, they have their own recommended Synthetic Oil. If an AC system has been at atmospheric conditions for an extended length of time, (ie, out of gas) you will need to start from scratch and flush the lines/replace the oil. Especially if there's a possibility of PAG oil in the system. PAG oil turns acidic, with any moisture from exposure to atmospheric conditions.

It could also be a FUSIBLE resistor, designed to protect the gauge itself. If it's gone open circuit, without any obvious signs of destruction, I would assume that it IS a fusible resistor.

It's an RS Series 2watt Metal Oxide Resistor, (metal oxide resistors, are basically high quality resistors designed for use in demanding situations - like automotive parts.) RS = RS series Resistor 2P = 2 Watt Power Rating 68^ = 68Ohms J = +/- 5% tolerance rating http://www.token.com.tw/pdf/resistor/metal-oxide-resistor.pdf

Try re-flowing the solder joints. They can sometimes fatigue, and only give a partial connection. It's a common problem. Especially with the later model falcon remotes - AU/BA

Help me, all thee knowledgeable OzFalcon members........ The BTR trans in my EL 5ltr wagon is playing up a bit. (been doing it for a while, but just not as consistently as now) three things it does - 1. It very slightly delays the 1-2 shift, and ends it with a thump into 2nd. This happens under part throttle only. Full or 3/4 throttle 1-2 shifts are fine. 2. It randomly unlocks the torque converter when you're driving along, with no change to throttle position or engine load. 3. Engine braking is random - in that if you manually drop back a gear or two on a downwards incline, there is no off throttle engine braking. Not until you either slow right down, or put your foot back on the go pedal. Other than these three things, it works fine. Opinions?

Wheel cleaner like the ArmourAll, or IronX, seems to clean the brown off tyres. I'm pretty sure it's the silicone which turns brown with UV light. I've seen enough roof and gutter silicone, turn brown around decktites etc, from doing Solar. Foaming non-silicone tyre shine is what I use, which works great. Gives a natural black finish. I used to use a home brand IGA foam, but now use the armourall foam. I would like to try some pro stuff eventually though.

It had a faulty inhibitor switch back when I first got the car. It would randomly kick down a gear, and/or go into neutral while driving along. I put the dash into diagnostic mode, and could see it happening. I replaced the inbibitor switch with a NEW genuine OEM BTR part - an Aussie made Bosch switch. (the motorcraft ones supplied by Ford these days, are a copy part - not bosch.)

What was it doing exactly?

And handily, the NOS replacement door skins have the notches cut out on both sides of the handle recess, so the skins will work on all XD-XH.

Cav will prolly chime in with the most accurate info...... but last I saw, the XG-XH handles were going for about $50 each at Ford. The XD-XF handles, were at about $40 each. Black only to my knowledge. I don't think they do the chrome ones anymore.

Handily, the pivots on today's new Genuine Ford x-series door handles, come with the holes pre-stamped for either XD-XF or XG-XH. Just swap over the correct plastic insert, and you're away!

It was an optional extra in 1984 too. edit - There is no connection for a clock, in the GL wiring looms. For the base models, the clock wiring looms were an add-on extra, spliced in with scotch-locks. There are two versions of the clock also. The XD and early XE clocks are a Siemens brand, with the square plug and an inline resistor/suppressor thing. They had more traditional looking yellow tinged green (or red) digits in the display. Later clocks were made by VDO, and were in a very slimlined see-through green tinted casing. The display digits are very small and the colour is more of a blue/green. This clock has a thin narrow 4 pin plug - chassis mounted directly onto the circuit board of the clock unit. Quick history lesson - In 2001, Siemens Automotive merged with VDO, to become SiemensVDO. Then in 2007, the Siemens Group, sold their SiemensVDO business, to the German company Continental for $15.66 billion. Continental are best known in Australia, for their soft riding euro spec tyres.