SPArKy_Dave

A 4 pinion, if you can. Any wagon LSD diffs will be worn out in the cones too. And the wagon diffs are more renown for becoming noisy. I have experienced two e-series wagons.... my 5ltr EL and the silver EF. Both diffs are noisy in different ways. The EF has a nice soft train 'electric motor' like whine, which increases in pitch from low to high, as you increase vehicle speed. It's subtle, and the pitch becomes too high to hear, after about 70km/h - It's quite pleasant to live with IMO. The EL, has a growl - much more bearing like. It comes and goes though. Not pleasant, but not unpleasant either.

Be sure to Super Clean the windscreen too. Don't underestimate the luxury and safety, afforded by slick glass. (tried to come up with a sexual pun, but failed ) Slick glass, will bead the water, dramatically improving wet weather vision and make it easy for the windscreen wipers to glide over the surface - allowing them to work easier and faster, with less stress on moving parts.

We're up to 10 sets of EF/EL/XH Disc Rotors....... good work peoples!

Yes... PER Rotor, means a Single Disc, in a box. That's how they come from DBA. The Fronts are usually a bit over $200, and the rears usually a bit less than $200. I just averaged the value for simplicity, till I can get some firm figures.

Poll has been ammended to show some extra choices.

Remember everyone - we need a MINIMUM quantity - 25 sets of rotors, of ANY ONE TYPE, for DBA to even consider processing our order. As others have done...... please reply in the thread, if you would like MULTIPLE sets, of a certain type.

You won't have a choice, if you want working windscreen wipers. Look at it this way...... It'll be good for another 200 odd thousand k, after you've fixed it. Most second hand unit's will be the same on that ball, and/or have worn nylon sockets on the linkage arms.

Should be able to get another one of those in reasonable nick. Failing that, try de-rusting it in a phosphoric Acid based solution. You should be able to repair that with lead loading, and reshaping I reckon.

got a pic of it?

FFS, LOL! that's what happens to all of them. The nylon cup in the socket of the end wiper linkage wears, so the arm just falls off eventually. A pair of the new/reproduction wiper linkages will solve the issue. They are a tight click on fit, and have a small void inside them, which holds grease for lubrication. Don't go ruining the ball end (which is Nickel plated) by welding it, unless there are sections of the ball obviously missing, from bad rust. And yes, with the exception of the plug being different on the XD wiper mechs, they are all the same, right up to XH.

The old C2 style of pump - fitted to the EB-EL windsors, was also fitted to the early X-series with the Kirby/Bishop steering box. I don't see why it wouldn't work. A power steering pump, basically recirculates hydraulic fluid through a closed system - one half at a high pressure, and the return side, at low pressure. The high side pressure, can be altered by changing shims in the pressure valve, located in the pump outlet. The varying pressure, will change the amount of 'assistance' given to help you move the steering gear through it's range.

Sumitomo tyres are quite a soft compound, where as BFG tend not to grip quite as well. The BFG's have a brand rep - hence the price I'd say. Or they're imports, and the local seller is price gouging.

What's the drivetrain specs?

Seen that BARK EB/ED...... burnout warrior only. Supercharger is a nice idea, but turbo's are a much cheaper and more proven formula for the OHC sixes, if you wanted to boost the engine. Forced induction is a commitment either way, if you want the drivetrain to stay reliable. The 94AB heads, flow the best from factory. and the very first EA cams, are the highest lift from factory. If you can get XR6 spec valves put in a 94AB head, with an EA cam - that's the best bang for buck 'factory' combo that you'll get. As that thread showed, the xxDT (tickford) heads, actually have less flow in factory spec, than a standard head. Spend the money getting your heads flowed - before and after or standard vs tickford comparison. Knowing those flow figures, will help you fit a cam with spec's to best suit your chosen cylinder head. Then you could look at a J3 dyno tune.

That's what wool wash is for..... (assuming they were real Lambswool)

I've got some info in the OHC cylinder head section I think. I don't think I ever started a thread on my XG ute - which the head is for. In this thread - http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2076-4l-head-flow-figures/

Not sure yet. I haven't fitted it. LOL! It's a brand new aftermarket cylinder head casting too.

I like the head.... reminds me of the one I built up - (don't like that he's sandblasted it though. The Alloy will never stay clean now)

So copy it across...... slack bugger.

I think I like these wheels better -

Any Bosch coil or dissy or cap, listed to suit the XG/XH and E-series (except EF) will suit an XH with factory standard driveline. Those components were the same. The XH spark plug leads, are the same as EA-ED Falcon. The general consensus, is to use Genuine Ford spark plug leads on the XG/XH/E-series, if you can. (usually available on ebay too) The EF's had a coil pack and a cam/crank position sensor, not a dissy/cap/coil, hence why I say 'except EF'.

Get your old injectors back..... it's not injectors. Get your old leads and dissy cap back..... it won't be those either. If you had a dud lead, the ute would kick and buck a bit under load, but still run ok. If it's backfiring, then usually it's ignition related, not fuel supply related. I would try a new distributor - genuine bosch available off ebay, for about $160.00. (do not get a chinese copy dissy) It's probably a dying PIP hall effect sensor. If you're cluey, you can replace just the PIP and/or TFI module. If the coil is dying, you can often see cracks in the body, when it's removed. Run the fault codes, and see if it gives you a direction - ie, Coil, PIP or TFI. Also, make sure you're using the EA-ED type, long electrode spark plugs - they need to be used, with the log intake manifold engines. (such as on the standard XH's) Edit - beaten to it, by VDO.

So the Volante Alloys wouldn't fit the disc brake rears properly..... interesting! I and all the other OzFalcon members, THANK you...... oh great knowledgeable one - keeper of the holy bibles....

What gold paint did you end up using?

You've been holding out on us dude..... Methinks we need to see some more TSB's. Maybe we could start a dedicated resource section in the forum somewhere?