SPArKy_Dave

My guess, is dealer fitted A/C. If the thermostat housing has a blanking bung fitted to the top threaded entry, that would also point to dealer fitted A/C.

Looks like it's an interference press fit, from the outside in. Thus needs to be pressed back out. You could try hitting the end with a hammer, but if the steel is soft, you'll bell the end where the circlip goes. Using a brass drift would minimise any damage. It would be better using a press. Was it leaking from that seal? Does the rebuild kit come with a replacement o-ring? Is there an access hole directly opposite, in the case - to allow a drift to go right through the case - if using a press?

Did you use Rare Spares rubber boots too?

In E-series / XH's, there's nothing to set really. The sensors can only go on one way, and there is no adjustment. To test the ABS. Find a quiet Rd, drive along, stand hard on brakes, note for pulsing brake pedal - indicating ABS actuation. Any logged faults will eventually self clear/ overwrite, with ignition cycles. If it didn't cost too much, then no harm done. Where did you end up getting the ABS sensor from?

A few yrs ago, I purchased a one Elderly couple owner EL sedan. Fairly low km's at 175,000km. The only issue, is I suspected it had done a head gasket, which turned out to be true. I removed the head and got it hardness checked and trued, all the spring tensions checked, the valve guides checked, valves faced, etc. The head turned out to be in really good nick! While the head was being done, I cleaned up all the rocker gear, rocker shafts, lifters, etc, of the carbon/milk substance. I used a BTR trans dipstick to rod out the inside of the rocker shafts. The tiny passages, really highlight the need good servicing on these OHC's - to prevent carbon blockages. Once I'd gotten the head back, I cleaned the block surface of the old gasket material, with small scotchbrite rotary pads. With a clean block surface, I noticed black carboned area's around the front and rear water jacket ports, which I scraped out with a fine pick. Revealing some fairly decent corrosion - right up to the edge of the fire rings on no.1 and no.6. With that discovery, I oiled the bare metal surfaces, covered up the engine with plastic wrap, and left the vehicle in storage for a yr and a half, but have finally decided it's time to sort it out, and get the beast re-assembled. Without pulling the engine out to deck the block, what options are there to repair the above corrosion damage, for the head gasket to seal properly? I have consulted the book of 'what would Dave do', and the only thing I could come up with, was to use a JB weld type two part Epoxy, and then file it flat with the surrounding block surface. Thoughts?

Like a book, I have been read........

A Rare Spares techie fella Edan, contacted me on FB, and is posting me out some replacement ones. Can't fault the quick response. I'll be interested to see how the replacement ones go. He mentioned they were using a different supplier for a while, and that may be the reason. The worst part will be having to undo the tie rod ends again. (and for a third time, if the replacement ones fail.) I did look at using the RareSpares swaybar link kits originally, too but they looked deadset carbon copies of the Dennis Carpenter ones - right down to the un-common tapered rubber bushes. (rather than stepped bushes) The Dennis Carpenter ones were $8.00 cheaper, from a mustang repro parts place.

4 bolt balancers, take the extra pulley for power steering, from memory. The 3 bolt are the earlier ones. Look at NULINE powerbond ones to start. They have a couple of different grades available.

That it is. Same one you saw at that SNL meet a while back.

I can use some Hylomar, if that's what will work. The worst of the pitting, would be 1mm deep I reckon.

From memory, the rubber washers cushion the glass against the metal channel.

I like supercharged better - Ford Lightning Ftruck -

Jeesus, that has some epic over-run harmonics going on at speed...... The subwoofer vibrated itself across the floor, my desk split in two, the carpet started curling at the edges, and I heard the neighbours yell EARTHQUAKE! and evacuate.

Just fix yours...... they're so simple.

It's just two scissor action arms which are moved by a large geared arc plate - turned by the window crank which has a spring in it. The mech is held to the door frame by metal rivets. Drill them out, remove the mech and inspect it. Probably just bent the large gear plate. The assembly is only stamped steel - easily bent if forced.

That Dunlop tyre looks quite ancient. Having those lines around the sidewall, often means the tyre is a re-tread. Alternatively, being a 1tonne van, that tyre could be one of the originals. Not many people kept the load rated tyres on the 1tonne vans, because they're grip poorly and are quite noisy. Dunno that I'd trust Hifly brand tyres either, tbh. The bosch part number for rear ef/el-series ABS wheel speed sensor, is - 0 265 006 230 The EF/EL genuine number is - 96DA 2C204 AA and/or EL 2C204 A The earlier numbers are - 91DA 2C204 AB and/or ED 2C204 A

INFO COPIED, PASTED AND LOGGED - FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES Stock EST total advance is 36deg I think. My 60thou off c2 combo runs stock 86 ulp est and doesnt ping either cam is 214@050". I may look for a 200xflow est ecu also apparently these ramp up quicker. ZAC

INFO COPIED, PASTED AND LOGGED - FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES whats your total timing?

INFO COPIED, PASTED AND LOGGED - FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES It is pretty close to stock - just the head shaved and cam ground to 208@50. I'm bypassing the EST computer, and just using the EST pickup and coil drive,- also the EST advance map to start with. Essentially, its like I can run the EST at 30 degrees base timing without it pinging on either gas or 95 petrol, and I figure for that to happen something can't be really right. I've just been checking the cam timing, and its looking ok, but the theory I'm working on now is that there's too much lifter pre-load. There's nearly 2 turns after the rocker contacts the pushrod. Not sure if it's actually causing a problem though, because it's still giving 175psi compression, so presumably the valves are closing off. Anyhow, about to put some shims on the pedistals to see what that does.

INFO COPIED, PASTED AND LOGGED - FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES Is the EST doing anything else to the spark supply aswell..? Doe's it behave differently when colder and how much has been done to the engine.A close to stock engine benefit close to f*ck all when messing with em.I did find that changing to extractors with a 2.5" exhaust and a modified and raised Webber it felt better with a 3.3 EST and 10# of timing but still got smashed by almost every other car on the road...lol The current engine reacts too timing changes alot more noticeably,take timing out it slows down and becomes less responsive crank it up and it's much snappier and wound up too much it will rattle a bit. If we lived closer I'd donate my ute to the cause for a weekend cause the EST and stuff is all still in it but not used... Good luck bro,I like where your heading with it. Slydog

INFO COPIED, PASTED AND LOGGED - FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES yes timing does mater you gotta make sure that all the engine geometry work together so every thing goes bang at the critical time that why it's called timing

INFO COPIED, PASTED AND LOGGED - FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES I've just put my crossflow back together with 50 thou shaved off the C2 head and have been working to get the ignition advance right. I've modified the EST module and added a knob inside the car that will advance/retard the timing map. What I'm finding though is it seems to make no real difference, at least running on gas. I can advance or retard 10 degrees from the standard map on 12 degrees base timing, and it has little noticeable effect on performance. I've had it out briefly to 25degrees either side under various loads, and still runs fine with not much power loss: but will start to feel a bit different in the engine note. Still not a ping to be heard. It does affect the idle speed, with more advance giving faster idle, up to something like 45 degrees or more. With the shaved head I should be running around 9.5:1 compression, and with that I would have at least expected it to ping and lose power when over-advanced. Also, with the talk of regraphed distributors, I would have expected significant effects from getting the timing right. Anyone know whether this is normal? Could there be anything wrong with the motor to cause it to be less sensitive to advance? Error in cam timing maybe? Any hard figures on hp loss with timing changes? I also notice there's a moderate amount of unevenness on the hall sensor from the EST distributor. I estimate it results in around 5 degrees of variation in advance between the cylinders. I can program up a filter into the ignition to cancel that out, but if combustion isn't really that sensitive to timing anyhow, it's probably not worth it. Or maybe that variation is making it less noticeable when the timing is just right. http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26035-does-timing-really-matter/

INFO COPIED, PASTED AND LOGGED - FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES Does anyone have a TFI MAP?

INFO COPIED, PASTED AND LOGGED - FOR ARCHIVAL PURPOSES I look forward to your post.